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Never pulled a side dump but all the end dumps I have pulled just needed a standard PTO set up. If you have 2 hoses it sounds like it is a "2 line" wet kit. you have a feed and a return. this means that the trailer has some sort of bypass valve that lets fluid flow in and back to the tank untill you move a lever and the fluid flows to that ram. this is the same style wet kit that many Lowboy trucks will use.

things you need to know before you start looking

1) what trans in your truck. (need to know the gear ratios and mesh)

2) 6 or 8 bolt PTO or both? (some transmissions have 2-3 options for a pto mount)

3)how long will the PTO be in operation (long duty cycles = hi fluid temps)

4) how much fluid does the system need? (how big of a tank will you need)

5) remote mount pump or married unit. (the married units are nice but $$$ and very heavy to have hang off the side of the trans)

once you know this you can call a shop and tell them what you have and what you are doing. if they are well know shop they will have the set up options for you.

If its a standard set up they will tell you what pto and pump to find then all you have to do is plumb it into the tank and run lines to the deck plate. the contols will likely be air operated off a simple dash vavle. one tip is to put shut off valves on the tank, you will thank yourself the first time you have to replace a hose!

I installed my own wet kit. The shop near me is RG smith and equipment in Desplanes IL.they finish alot of dump trucks,garbage trucks etc.... I showed them the pump/PTO had and they told me what fittings and controls I needed. Not a hard thing to set up but it is a little pricy if you buy new. I bought used and it was 1/4 the cost of new!

Our side dumps have the reversing valve on the trailer....that's the easiest way to set 'em up.

All you need is a wet kit capable of running an end dump. (tank, suction line, pump, pressure line to coupler for the trailer connection). Then, all that is necessary to adapt the wet kit from that point is to add a line from the tank up to a coupler for a second trailer connection to work as a return line.

Then, you'll need a 3-position (on-off-on) electric switch mounted in the cab to control the reversing valve. It should be one that is normally open....in other words, it should return to the "off" position whenever it is released. Run the 2 wires from it back to the trailer...ours plugs in using regular 6-round plugs available just about anywhere.

That's it.

Now if the trailer does not have a reversing valve, you'll have to get one for the tractor. It's not like an end dump where gravity lowers the bed...it's all done with hydraulic pressure. If this is the case, your pressure line would run to the reversing valve instead of to a coupler to connect to the trailer. The return line would also go back to the tank from this valve. When you engage the pump, it will be circulating oil through the valve straight back to the tank. It will have 2 more lines coming out of it which is where you will connect the trailer. When you want to raise the bed, the valve diverts the oil into one of the lines, it runs to the trailer and extends the cylinder, and oil returns to the valve through the other line to be returned to the tank. When you want to lower the bed, the lines take on the opposite role to retract the cylinders.

If it is a truck-mounted reversing valve, it will probably use an air switch.

When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way!

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