Trxl-1071 Into B Model

[Red Horse]

Guys, From prior posts you might recall my B has a Maxidyne with a duplex (TRD-720) and a 6.67 rear. I can get a 4.60 chuck and a TRXL-1071. Has anyone put this 6 speed in their B? I gather I have an issue with the clutch right as the TRXL has cable actuation with a suspended pedal?

[Rob]

Putting a hanging pedal in the cab is a good idea as you can do away with the holes in the floor pan. The newer trans uses a pull type clutch where your original duplex uses a push type such as in a light truck with manual transmission. The trans will fit but will be tight. You will need to fabricate mounts using the originals, (or parts of them) for a pattern to mate up with the existing frame mounts. This is of course assuming you don't want to make your own from scratch. I would go with a little faster rear axle gear if it were me as the trans is direct in high gear.

You will like that transmission cause you drive it like a straight five speed most always.

Rob

[Red Horse]

Thx Rob. I'm also brain dead as After I did the post I did a search on "cable clutch" and found that I raised this issue in 10/09, a few months after I bought the truck. I got some good info at the time-just never did anything with it. But my 6.67 rear has some play in it so I figured before I fool with that I should face the bigger issue. The original carrier is a CRD -62 and that was replaced with the CRD 118 in later versions of the RAD 111 axle. A 4.60 is the highest ratio you can get.

Bob

[Rob]

Thx Rob. I'm also brain dead as After I did the post I did a search on "cable clutch" and found that I raised this issue in 10/09, a few months after I bought the truck. I got some good info at the time-just never did anything with it. But my 6.67 rear has some play in it so I figured before I fool with that I should face the bigger issue. The original carrier is a CRD -62 and that was replaced with the CRD 118 in later versions of the RAD 111 axle. A 4.60 is the highest ratio you can get.

Bob

Hi Bob. You can put any rear axle under the truck but will need to move the saddles on the axle housing appropriately. In the B series of truck most frame widths were 33.5" and a lot of other vendors were 34" in width. This of course moves the springs and saddles 1/4" on each side further out. Finding round tube spring seats are usually best acquired at a trailer parts vendor as most trucks nowadays use a square, or rectangular housing. I've used "Hutchens" spring seats several times when swapping axles on a single axle truck.

Not too bad of job, I usually plasma cut the original spring seats from the new axle, and finish dress the remaining stubs with a grinder and flap disc. Typically I have the driveline in the truck and hooked up to the rear axle drive yoke with weight sitting on the rear springs. You then rotate the rear axle to the correct driveline angle, spot weld the spring seats to the tube, raise the truck and weld solid. this is assuming a round tube axle. If square tube, shims must be used for the correct driveline angle.

Glen, or Herb can fill you in much better than I, but this is the way I do it.

Rob

[Red Horse]

Hi Bob. You can put any rear axle under the truck but will need to move the saddles on the axle housing appropriately. In the B series of truck most frame widths were 33.5" and a lot of other vendors were 34" in width. This of course moves the springs and saddles 1/4" on each side further out. Finding round tube spring seats are usually best acquired at a trailer parts vendor as most trucks nowadays use a square, or rectangular housing. I've used "Hutchens" spring seats several times when swapping axles on a single axle truck.

Not too bad of job, I usually plasma cut the original spring seats from the new axle, and finish dress the remaining stubs with a grinder and flap disc. Typically I have the driveline in the truck and hooked up to the rear axle drive yoke with weight sitting on the rear springs. You then rotate the rear axle to the correct driveline angle, spot weld the spring seats to the tube, raise the truck and weld solid. this is assuming a round tube axle. If square tube, shims must be used for the correct driveline angle.

Glen, or Herb can fill you in much better than I, but this is the way I do it.

Robx

rob- I'm afraid your skills (and energy) are way beyond this old boy! I'm really rethinking this issue now. If I compare gear ratios (ignoring the low hole) I find the following. What I did was pick the TRD720 ratios that came closest to the TRXL 1071 ratios

Gear TRXL 1071 % change TRD 720 % change

1st 8.59 7.25 1L

2nd 4.99 42 4.16 2L 43

3rd 2.84 43 2.34 3L 44

4th 1.66 41 1.33 4L 43

5th 1.00 40 1.00 4H 25

.78 5H 22

Again, huge difference in rears as the 1071 would need a gear change to a 4.670 and the current ratio is 6.67

I'll try driving it this way with a load in a few days.