Lester Ac Compressor On My Superliner?

[LAZRGUIRA]

Hi all, I seem to have a bit of a problem. My AC compressor thats on my 1986 mack superliner (Glider kit) is not very common. It works great but it leaks thru the ac clutch seal area. I cant seem to find any info on this part#. Has anyone even ever head of this brand? LESTER 5 0125526

I have a E6-350 can you atleast tell me what compressor i can buy to replace it? Any info on this so called "lester" brand would be appreciated.

[Rob]

Hi all, I seem to have a bit of a problem. My AC compressor thats on my 1986 mack superliner (Glider kit) is not very common. It works great but it leaks thru the ac clutch seal area. I cant seem to find any info on this part#. Has anyone even ever head of this brand? LESTER 5 0125526

I have a E6-350 can you atleast tell me what compressor i can buy to replace it? Any info on this so called "lester" brand would be appreciated.

"Lester" is a rebuilder and not a manufacturer. Don't know if they are still around. Replace with either a York, or Sanden depending if the existing is a reciprocating or swash plate or axial design.

Rob

[LAZRGUIRA]

"Lester" is a rebuilder and not a manufacturer. Don't know if they are still around. Replace with either a York, or Sanden depending if the existing is a reciprocating or swash plate or axial design.

Rob

ahhh ...cool. well i'm trying to get a seal kit for it. do you think its possible? I'll get some pics and try and find some more information this weekend. So it's probly a york or sanden and has a lester label on it. maybe i can find some more #'s on it.

[Bollweevil]

"Lester" is a rebuilder and not a manufacturer. Don't know if they are still around. Replace with either a York, or Sanden depending if the existing is a reciprocating or swash plate or axial design.

Rob

I do not know which, or what might have been available in your time frame. For a quick ID, the body of a Sanden compressor is round, and the body of a York is square. Back in the day, when confronted with having to replace a york compressor I would always specify a Tecumseh replacement. The reason being, the York housing was aluminum, and the Tecumseh was cast iron, and seemed to last a lot longer. Either was supplied with two versions of service port seals, which do not interchange. Today, a Sanden compressor is a much better choice, even if you have to round up the correct mounting brackets. You can buy a Sanden just about anywhere, but they are model specific. There are many different clutch, pulley, and service port configurations, even though most mounting points seem to be the same. I should mention, to further complicate matters, that the York type compressor always seemed to come less the clutch assembly. You had to transfer yours to the new compressor, or buy a new one separately.

[Barry]

Hi all, I seem to have a bit of a problem. My AC compressor thats on my 1986 mack superliner (Glider kit) is not very common. It works great but it leaks thru the ac clutch seal area. I cant seem to find any info on this part#. Has anyone even ever head of this brand? LESTER 5 0125526

I have a E6-350 can you atleast tell me what compressor i can buy to replace it? Any info on this so called "lester" brand would be appreciated.

I talked to you earlier from Watt's...try this place:

Specialty Air in Saltsburg, PA...they do a lot of heavy truck a/c

724-697-4672

[Rob]

Hi James, when the York style, (Borg-Warner) compressor was very common in the marketplace, it was the best and most durable out there. Also really easy to rebuild. When Diesel-Kiki bought the design rights, the quality went to shit on short order. Nowadays the Sanden, (american made, not chinese variant) is by far just as durable and much more efficient. One does not however just want to go out and purchase a compressor that fits a certain set of mounts to a certain engine etc. There is much more criteria to be solved for prior to the purchase. One needs to know the evaporator capacity in tons of refrigeration capacity per hour, followed the condensor heat rejection characteristics, followed by a proper expansion device to allow adequate "flash" of the liquid refrigerant from a liquid to a gas, and near lastly, proper hose sizes to connect it all together. Mismatch any part and less than adequate cooling is the result. I've seen many glider kits assembled utilizing a known good compressor already mounted to an engine and the package not come together properly.

If Lazr is simply replacing a known good working unit that leaks and can obtain a like compressor there will be no problems. However without a factory tag affixed to the body, and unless able to trace the numbers for a like kind unit, trouble could be on the horizon.

Rob

[Mike]

I've had to rebuild some of the Tecumseh & York units back in the 70's and 80's. The problem I found with these compressors were they leaked and you would loose both freon and oil. I recall that the square compressors (I would call them)would cost you 30 HP. When the rotory compressor came out, I found them to be more reliable, at least I have had no problems with any rotory unit thus far.....my pennies worth.

mike

[Rob]

I've had to rebuild some of the Tecumseh & York units back in the 70's and 80's. The problem I found with these compressors were they leaked and you would loose both freon and oil. I recall that the square compressors (I would call them)would cost you 30 HP. When the rotory compressor came out, I found them to be more reliable, at least I have had no problems with any rotory unit thus far.....my pennies worth.

mike

They were great compressors till the piston rings and seals started to leaking from age. This caused the crankcase to pressurize and blow the double lip carbon packing seal on the crankshaft. When they were in good shape, you could check the crankcase oil without dumping the charge. If you removed the side plug and pressure blew it out of your fingers, it was time for rebuild.

The valve plates were the most problematic of the system. In cars, the mechanical POA valves of the late 60's to mid 70's were always freezing from being stationary during the cold months and head pressure would rise uncontroled until either the high pressure cutout disabled the current to the compressor clutch, or the valve plate in the head distorted dissallowing pressure buildup. Either way, it was time for rebuild.

They made great mobile air compressors too.

Rob

[Bollweevil]

They were great compressors till the piston rings and seals started to leaking from age. This caused the crankcase to pressurize and blow the double lip carbon packing seal on the crankshaft. When they were in good shape, you could check the crankcase oil without dumping the charge. If you removed the side plug and pressure blew it out of your fingers, it was time for rebuild.

The valve plates were the most problematic of the system. In cars, the mechanical POA valves of the late 60's to mid 70's were always freezing from being stationary during the cold months and head pressure would rise uncontroled until either the high pressure cutout disabled the current to the compressor clutch, or the valve plate in the head distorted dissallowing pressure buildup. Either way, it was time for rebuild.

They made great mobile air compressors too.

Rob

[Bollweevil]

They were great compressors till the piston rings and seals started to leaking from age. This caused the crankcase to pressurize and blow the double lip carbon packing seal on the crankshaft. When they were in good shape, you could check the crankcase oil without dumping the charge. If you removed the side plug and pressure blew it out of your fingers, it was time for rebuild.

The valve plates were the most problematic of the system. In cars, the mechanical POA valves of the late 60's to mid 70's were always freezing from being stationary during the cold months and head pressure would rise uncontroled until either the high pressure cutout disabled the current to the compressor clutch, or the valve plate in the head distorted dissallowing pressure buildup. Either way, it was time for rebuild.

They made great mobile air compressors too.

Rob

Another point worth considering, is that the service life of an AC compressor on a class 8 truck is nothing near the half life of Radium. In the 70's a Buick or Old's with 150,000 was was was pretty much used up. We put that much on a truck, in a year easy, with the same basic compressor. If you have a lot of miles on a compressor that is leaking, replacement is probably a better choice. Especially if you figure down time as worth anything. That said, I would probably take 3 or 4 apart to make 1 good one. If you you don't have a compressor clutch tool kit, that is about 1/3 the price of a compressor.

[Rob]

Another point worth considering, is that the service life of an AC compressor on a class 8 truck is nothing near the half life of Radium. In the 70's a Buick or Old's with 150,000 was was was pretty much used up. We put that much on a truck, in a year easy, with the same basic compressor. If you have a lot of miles on a compressor that is leaking, replacement is probably a better choice. Especially if you figure down time as worth anything. That said, I would probably take 3 or 4 apart to make 1 good one. If you you don't have a compressor clutch tool kit, that is about 1/3 the price of a compressor.

You have a very valid point in longevity as installed OEM. However, if a three micron filter is incorporated into compressor discharge line when built, the compressor has the very real possibility of lasting as long as the vehicle provided no corrosion or impact disturbs the integrity of the system. If all the joint were silver soldered, there would be no rubber sealing rings to leak. As compressors run they minutely wear and put abrasive particulates into the components of the system. These can eventually plug or restrict both liquid refrigerant and oil mixture compounding the problem of wear. With the added restriction(s), head pressure builds higher than normal and even more wear ensues. Viscious cycle is what this is. With a large capacity filter installed from the start, these particulates are captured and not allowed to pass this point. The balance of the system remains clean and runs a long time before failure.

This is why a compressor in a home system last so many years in comparison to automotive usage.

Rob

[Bollweevil]

You have a very valid point in longevity as installed OEM. However, if a three micron filter is incorporated into compressor discharge line when built, the compressor has the very real possibility of lasting as long as the vehicle provided no corrosion or impact disturbs the integrity of the system. If all the joint were silver soldered, there would be no rubber sealing rings to leak. As compressors run they minutely wear and put abrasive particulates into the components of the system. These can eventually plug or restrict both liquid refrigerant and oil mixture compounding the problem of wear. With the added restriction(s), head pressure builds higher than normal and even more wear ensues. Viscious cycle is what this is. With a large capacity filter installed from the start, these particulates are captured and not allowed to pass this point. The balance of the system remains clean and runs a long time before failure.

This is why a compressor in a home system last so many years in comparison to automotive usage.

Rob

Clean and dry is a prerequisite for longevity. Dichlorodifluoromethane + even small amounts of H2O combine to create hydrocloric acid, or something just as nasty, the results of which cause more damage than normal wear particulates. Nobody does it, but you need to pull a deep vacuume for at least 4 hours when a system has been opened.

[Rob]

Clean and dry is a prerequisite for longevity. Dichlorodifluoromethane + even small amounts of H2O combine to create hydrocloric acid, or something just as nasty, the results of which cause more damage than normal wear particulates. Nobody does it, but you need to pull a deep vacuume for at least 4 hours when a system has been opened.

I actually do with a sub micron guage for six hours minimum. This boils any moisture from the system. I then charge to 50 psi with nitrogen and let dwell overnight. Then pull the system into a vacume of 29.75" to purge the nitrogen charge. Typically another operation is performed while this is going on so the actual clock time is not billed to the customer. 1.4 manhours is what book time calls for evac and recharge on automotive applications. This is fairly accurate if there are no problems present. It costs a bit more for the precautionary measures taken, but comebacks are extremely seldom and I've really never had problems getting compensated properly as my proceedures are well known around here. Typically I'm billing 2.5 hours with a $35.00 upcharge for the extra nitrogen charge.

Prolly couldn't do that without a good repore with insurance adjusters.

Rob

[theakerstwo]

Another point worth considering, is that the service life of an AC compressor on a class 8 truck is nothing near the half life of Radium. In the 70's a Buick or Old's with 150,000 was was was pretty much used up. We put that much on a truck, in a year easy, with the same basic compressor. If you have a lot of miles on a compressor that is leaking, replacement is probably a better choice. Especially if you figure down time as worth anything. That said, I would probably take 3 or 4 apart to make 1 good one. If you you don't have a compressor clutch tool kit, that is about 1/3 the price of a compressor.

That is good advice. We had to replace the seals for awhile on one brand of compressors when under warranty. It did not make sence because if you dont have good luck the first time the cost of doing it over is a no win deal.It got to were the complete compressor was replaced no matter how many miles was on it.

[Bollweevil]

I actually do with a sub micron guage for six hours minimum. This boils any moisture from the system. I then charge to 50 psi with nitrogen and let dwell overnight. Then pull the system into a vacume of 29.75" to purge the nitrogen charge. Typically another operation is performed while this is going on so the actual clock time is not billed to the customer. 1.4 manhours is what book time calls for evac and recharge on automotive applications. This is fairly accurate if there are no problems present. It costs a bit more for the precautionary measures taken, but comebacks are extremely seldom and I've really never had problems getting compensated properly as my proceedures are well known around here. Typically I'm billing 2.5 hours with a $35.00 upcharge for the extra nitrogen charge.

Prolly couldn't do that without a good repore with insurance adjusters.

Rob

Nitrogen, under pressure, and a spray bottle of soapy water, also makes for a great leak detector.

[LAZRGUIRA]

WHAO...This is a lot aof great info..thanks guys..I was doing some serching and came up with a link that has a picture of what i believe may be my compressor..

The one in the pic says it's a LESTER 3 and mine is a LESTER 5. I wish i knew where i can buy a seal kit for the clutch. Thats where its leaking . you can hear it hissing.

Other than that it seems to be work great.

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/590956-york-air-conditioning-compressor-applications.html

[theakerstwo]

WHAO...This is a lot aof great info..thanks guys..I was doing some serching and came up with a link that has a picture of what i believe may be my compressor..

The one in the pic says it's a LESTER 3 and mine is a LESTER 5. I wish i knew where i can buy a seal kit for the clutch. Thats where its leaking . you can hear it hissing.

Other than that it seems to be work great. Before you waist any money on a seal check the slack in the shaft there. If you have in up and down slack throw it in the trash.

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/590956-york-air-conditioning-compressor-applications.html

[LAZRGUIRA]

I'll check for that.