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I am planning a trip over the Fourth of July weekend and plan on taking advantage of the long weekend to get a little work done on my Mack. The plan is to get everything running properly so I can drive it home (3 hrs away) and work on it there. A quick history is truck was purchased about 18 years ago and was drove home. It may have been started a few times to move it in and out of the shop or lean to, the last time I know for sure it was started was 2000 or 2001. Luckily it was either garaged or under lean to so mostly kept out of the elements. I plan on draining, flushing, changing all fluids before attempting to start it. Anything that I need to watch out for while doing this? Once engine is running I plan on going over the air system and light system etc. to make sure it is road worthy. I was told that the engine was a 205hp Thermodyne but again I cant confirm this until I go visit my Dad and get the VIN info off the truck, frame and engine like I should have thought of the last visit. Any ideas to make this process any smoother would be much appreciated.

The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by the people who vote for a living.

The government can only "give" someone what they first take from another.

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I am planning a trip over the Fourth of July weekend and plan on taking advantage of the long weekend to get a little work done on my Mack. The plan is to get everything running properly so I can drive it home (3 hrs away) and work on it there. A quick history is truck was purchased about 18 years ago and was drove home. It may have been started a few times to move it in and out of the shop or lean to, the last time I know for sure it was started was 2000 or 2001. Luckily it was either garaged or under lean to so mostly kept out of the elements. I plan on draining, flushing, changing all fluids before attempting to start it. Anything that I need to watch out for while doing this? Once engine is running I plan on going over the air system and light system etc. to make sure it is road worthy. I was told that the engine was a 205hp Thermodyne but again I cant confirm this until I go visit my Dad and get the VIN info off the truck, frame and engine like I should have thought of the last visit. Any ideas to make this process any smoother would be much appreciated.

PB'laster, batteries and/or jumper cables, and filters for sure.

"Mebbe I'm too ugly and stupid to give up!"

I am planning a trip over the Fourth of July weekend and plan on taking advantage of the long weekend to get a little work done on my Mack. The plan is to get everything running properly so I can drive it home (3 hrs away) and work on it there. A quick history is truck was purchased about 18 years ago and was drove home. It may have been started a few times to move it in and out of the shop or lean to, the last time I know for sure it was started was 2000 or 2001. Luckily it was either garaged or under lean to so mostly kept out of the elements. I plan on draining, flushing, changing all fluids before attempting to start it. Anything that I need to watch out for while doing this? Once engine is running I plan on going over the air system and light system etc. to make sure it is road worthy. I was told that the engine was a 205hp Thermodyne but again I cant confirm this until I go visit my Dad and get the VIN info off the truck, frame and engine like I should have thought of the last visit. Any ideas to make this process any smoother would be much appreciated.

Tell you what, before you go to changing out all the fluids I'd ensure the engine is not stuck, then crack the oil pan drain plug loose just to see if there is any water/coolant in the pan as it will settle to the bottom. If no contamination, I'd drain the fuel tanks, change the fuel filter(s), prime and fill the the fuel system with fresh fuel, install fresh batteries and get to cranking. I have several trucks that have sat longer than this one. If the liners or block is leaking there is no sense in wasting good oil. I say this following the statements that you think the engine is known good. An oil filter for that thing is about $20.00 by itself and close to $40.00 if a full flow style. I like to drain oil when the engine is warm and contaminates are agitated in the film. After the engine starts, then check your transmission(s), and rear axles for proper level. I say this order because if the engine is no good, you're not going to drive the truck home as anticipated, and not many I know are fond of throwing their money away. Once everything is verified good, then you could change to oil. Four of my trucks have literally been pulled from fields where they sat for several years.

As mentioned take jumper cables, fresh batteries if possible, fresh fuel, engine oil, pre mixed anti freeze, and one thing you don't want to forget is wasp and hornet spray this time of year. When something is sittting for a long spell, those bastards really make it their home!

Advice worth what you paid for it.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Thank you for the tips, you guys covered some things I had not thought of which will be very helpful.

The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by the people who vote for a living.

The government can only "give" someone what they first take from another.

Thank you for the tips, you guys covered some things I had not thought of which will be very helpful.

All good info for reviving an old truck,one thing i always like to add is that i've been around old cars/trucks all my life,and it NEVER hurts to have a fire extinguisher handy just in case! jumpers can spark,fuel spilled etc........better safe than sorry in my opinion!.....Mark

Mack Truck literate. Computer illiterate.

All good info for reviving an old truck,one thing i always like to add is that i've been around old cars/trucks all my life,and it NEVER hurts to have a fire extinguisher handy just in case! jumpers can spark,fuel spilled etc........better safe than sorry in my opinion!.....Mark

Definitely a great idea, probably something that is often overlooked. I hadnt thought of that and probably wouldnt have until there were flames.

The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by the people who vote for a living.

The government can only "give" someone what they first take from another.

i,always take out the injectors,and shoot a considerable amount of trans mission fluid with a squirt type oil can into the injector holes,and let that oil drop down into the rings,and cylinders,while your doing everthing else.time will rust the rings to the cylinder walls,condensation,,,and pull oil line off turbo,and squirt oil down to bearing,and turn it easy,in both directions,with fingers,have to remove inlet hose,till its nice and easy,and spins freely.also after oiling cylinders try to turn enging slow,by hand,grab the bottom pulley,and fan belts,should turn,,might have two put a wrench on the pully bolts just to free rust....good luck...bob

Mark beat me to it about the fire extinguisher. Rodents love to chew on hidden wiring and can cause havoc. They also love to nest with dry material that will burn easy and could be anywhere.

#1 on A-model registry

If I drink because of work, why can't I drink at work?

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