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Hauled the brake drums and spokes into the machine shop today to have them turned and boiled/cleaned. Gonna be really bright red when they are done. I had them sitting outside under a tarp for over a year so they have flash rust on the friction surface that I don't want to drive into the freshly relined brake shoes. The guy says they are right at the wear limit. He thinks they will polish up nicely but it will be the last time they're able to be worked with. This is a hobby truck only, (of course) and will probably never need brakes again so I'm not worried. They are going to do the drums for $20.00 each so this is a right fair deal that includes the hot tank after turning. After finally getting all the brake hardware, bushings, seals, felts, pins, and retainers rounded up over the last 1.5 years the truck is finally starting to see the light of day. I really want to reclaim the real estate this thing on jack stands takes. After I get it rolling again another buddy is gonna let me use his 25,000# truck lift to get it raised above my head so I can pressure wash the living shit out of the underside before stripping down and blasting clean. I've had enough of this grease shit to last me for awhile.

I also ordered new front casters for my OTC "Back Buddy" brake drum cart. The old casters are broken down from age and use and do not roll easily. I'm not about to start lifting brake drums again. Too many trips to the chiropractor in the past that I'd rather leave in the past. When I removed the drums from this truck it was over a month, (literally) before I could stand up straight again without wincing from the pain.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Hauled the brake drums and spokes into the machine shop today to have them turned and boiled/cleaned. Gonna be really bright red when they are done. I had them sitting outside under a tarp for over a year so they have flash rust on the friction surface that I don't want to drive into the freshly relined brake shoes. The guy says they are right at the wear limit. He thinks they will polish up nicely but it will be the last time they're able to be worked with. This is a hobby truck only, (of course) and will probably never need brakes again so I'm not worried. They are going to do the drums for $20.00 each so this is a right fair deal that includes the hot tank after turning. After finally getting all the brake hardware, bushings, seals, felts, pins, and retainers rounded up over the last 1.5 years the truck is finally starting to see the light of day. I really want to reclaim the real estate this thing on jack stands takes. After I get it rolling again another buddy is gonna let me use his 25,000# truck lift to get it raised above my head so I can pressure wash the living shit out of the underside before stripping down and blasting clean. I've had enough of this grease shit to last me for awhile.

I also ordered new front casters for my OTC "Back Buddy" brake drum cart. The old casters are broken down from age and use and do not roll easily. I'm not about to start lifting brake drums again. Too many trips to the chiropractor in the past that I'd rather leave in the past. When I removed the drums from this truck it was over a month, (literally) before I could stand up straight again without wincing from the pain.

Rob

I have built up s-cams before by welding a row of beads across them and then grinding them smooth.I don't know if there are any regulations against doing that, but it worked fine. Just a thought...(Paul Van Scott)

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

I have built up s-cams before by welding a row of beads across them and then grinding them smooth.I don't know if there are any regulations against doing that, but it worked fine. Just a thought...(Paul Van Scott)

I had my uncle build up these cams and grind them smooth in his machine. He built up splines, gears, shafting, etc. working at Caterpillar and is quite good at it. They look really good and should work well.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

I had my uncle build up these cams and grind them smooth in his machine. He built up splines, gears, shafting, etc. working at Caterpillar and is quite good at it. They look really good and should work well.

Rob

As for as brake cams you would be surpriced what you can get from a after market supply. You have to measure ever thing on the cam just like you would need if you was to have a machine shop build it for you.They have a chart to go to with the info.I have to do that on my truck. Daton wheels and i want to go to the exstended service shoes which require a thiner cam.

glenn akers

As for as brake cams you would be surpriced what you can get from a after market supply. You have to measure ever thing on the cam just like you would need if you was to have a machine shop build it for you.They have a chart to go to with the info.I have to do that on my truck. Daton wheels and i want to go to the exstended service shoes which require a thiner cam.

Hi Glenn, I spent literally hours pouring through catalogs trying to find replacements for the originals. I went through old Rockwell, Meritor, Arvin/Meritor, Batco, BWP, and a couple of others and all the mating cams I needed were extinct in parts supply outlet(s). The originals were down almost 1/8th inch on the wear surfaces where the cam rotates. The bronze bushings in the aluminum spiders actually worn through on a couple of them. My uncle determined the cams were probably of a 1045 carbon steel so that is the filler material in which was used. I think he, (like you) has prolly forgotten more about his profession than I'll ever know. On a snap gauge the surface hardness of these things is about a 48-50 on a Rockwell "C" scale, (damned hard).

I was able to obtain all brand new hardware by "robbing" partial kits from numerous vendors my preferred truck parts store talks with, meaning even their competitors. It's funny when somebody mentions an old Mack, all seem to know it's me they're speaking of around here. The support I get for these old trucks if phenomenal at times from vendors. Getting the wear surface rings for the front hub seals was another ordeal in itself. CR no longer offered the one I need, and Stemco made them for my truck in almost two weeks. Quite expensive too....... Almost $250.00 for the pair!! The originals had a groove cut into them from wear about .060 deep. There was no repair sleeve/seal kit available so really no options except to replace which was more cost effective than rebuilding the existing parts. The rear seals are CR of which Herb strongly recommended. I did get the replacement wear rings and proper seals for that application which were still available although needed to be ordered.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Rob you are scaring me now with all the difficulty of finding these parts. I'm more than sure i'll run into this same snag down the road. I've only touched the surface with this truck it seems. I'm still in the tare down mode, but have not touched the lower end yet.

mike

Rob you are scaring me now with all the difficulty of finding these parts. I'm more than sure i'll run into this same snag down the road. I've only touched the surface with this truck it seems. I'm still in the tare down mode, but have not touched the lower end yet.

mike

No need to be afraid. It just takes persistence. Your truck being a single drive axle will be less hassle to rebuild. If you send me your cams I'll get them rebuilt should you run into the same problems I did. Everything on the braking end of this truck was just plain worn out requiring replacement and I absolutely refuse to half ass any type of repair on anything I do. I built and ran my business on that philosphy many years. For the occasional "hobby use" your truck will get, a lot of the parts can be reused that I had no option on. As Glenn mentioned you can supply measurements of the hardware needed swapping to newer stuff, or just modify later model truck spiders that accept "Q" style brakes which are commonplace.

Besides, I like yakking about "old trucks" with the guys at the parts counter. Many of my visits are casual and no transactions take place.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

No need to be afraid. It just takes persistence. Your truck being a single drive axle will be less hassle to rebuild. If you send me your cams I'll get them rebuilt should you run into the same problems I did. Everything on the braking end of this truck was just plain worn out requiring replacement and I absolutely refuse to half ass any type of repair on anything I do. I built and ran my business on that philosphy many years. For the occasional "hobby use" your truck will get, a lot of the parts can be reused that I had no option on. As Glenn mentioned you can supply measurements of the hardware needed swapping to newer stuff, or just modify later model truck spiders that accept "Q" style brakes which are commonplace.

Besides, I like yakking about "old trucks" with the guys at the parts counter. Many of my visits are casual and no transactions take place.

Rob

I only differ from you in that when I go into a store I go for good service and most of them don't have time for chat. This i'm about to say has been posted before not long ago on here. When you get your turn to tell the guy behind the counter what you need , he decides the phone is more important and I have to wait again. I have many times walked out. My time is also valuable and I don't chose to waste his time either and the guy standing behind me waiting.......I know.....WHO CARES.

And it has and can happen the opposite of that, where ya call first and he puts you on hold and says hes helping someone else. I feel they should not answer a phone if they are helping a customer in the store.

My Rant

mike

I don't interrupt business going on, nor expect any alteration to their practice. I have however spent several thousand dollars there through the years so information conveyed no matter how small translates into further sales. This is good service and business in my opinion. Of course the casual interaction usually results in much free advice and on many occasions, something tangible, free. A lot of times I'll need a special tool for a job and can borrow from these guys without concern. They know they'll get it back. I'm set up on the same price schedule as someone that spends a hundred thousand a year with them, (I don't) so it works well in the end. Of course if I cook out at the shop, they get invitations and all the beer they can drink!!

It all works good and wish it could be like this more places.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

I don't interrupt business going on, nor expect any alteration to their practice. I have however spent several thousand dollars there through the years so information conveyed no matter how small translates into further sales. This is good service and business in my opinion. Of course the casual interaction usually results in much free advice and on many occasions, something tangible, free. A lot of times I'll need a special tool for a job and can borrow from these guys without concern. They know they'll get it back. I'm set up on the same price schedule as someone that spends a hundred thousand a year with them, (I don't) so it works well in the end. Of course if I cook out at the shop, they get invitations and all the beer they can drink!!

It all works good and wish it could be like this more places.

Rob

I know that is true. I've only had this truck to me a short time and is taking time to establish any relations. At this time i'm running to 2 different chrome shops to get a price I can live with. I have the 2 door handles and 1 left side mirror bracket needing chromed, all the other items have new chrome on them. I'm toying with the idea of having the air filter cannister bracket straps chromed and fuel tank straps stainless from the B model bumper guy....... just an idea, not concrete. I want to keep it as stock as possible but have a head turning effect also.

mike

No need to be afraid. It just takes persistence. Your truck being a single drive axle will be less hassle to rebuild. If you send me your cams I'll get them rebuilt should you run into the same problems I did. Everything on the braking end of this truck was just plain worn out requiring replacement and I absolutely refuse to half ass any type of repair on anything I do. I built and ran my business on that philosphy many years. For the occasional "hobby use" your truck will get, a lot of the parts can be reused that I had no option on. As Glenn mentioned you can supply measurements of the hardware needed swapping to newer stuff, or just modify later model truck spiders that accept "Q" style brakes which are commonplace.

Besides, I like yakking about "old trucks" with the guys at the parts counter. Many of my visits are casual and no transactions take place.

Rob

i used to have real good luck,here in reno,buying mack parts from a kenworth dealer,,lotsa old time talk,,was nice,,now the kenworth dealer is gone,and they just put in a mack volvo parts house,,but im probably (not) going to find the same hospitality,,probably wind up buying everything from watts,and have it sent out,,lol.save the frustration,have to agree most parts guys these days are a--holes,anymore i expect rude service,so im not so suprized,,long as they have the stuff...bob

Congrats on the progress. Just made some progress on my 67 recently. I ripped that ratty old dump body off the back. Looks so much better. I can just see the 5th wheel on there now... haha. I sure hope I dont whind up having to do a CSI investigation and recreation of the murdur of my brake components like you did. Will post pics of the old Dog soon. -Shawn

Congrats on the progress. Just made some progress on my 67 recently. I ripped that ratty old dump body off the back. Looks so much better. I can just see the 5th wheel on there now... haha. I sure hope I dont whind up having to do a CSI investigation and recreation of the murdur of my brake components like you did. Will post pics of the old Dog soon. -Shawn

ahhh i think you will be in good shape,,most of the parts are available or interchangable,,those guys are talking about obsolete s cam parts,,thier usually not worn,,unless the truck has been driven hard,and put away wet,,i also took the dump body off my DM,since it was going to be a play toy,bought a flat bed for it,,i paid a little too much for the truck,$3000 15 years ago,,but it was the cab style i wanted and in nevada you cant be choosy,,offset cabs are extinct here,,plus we didnt have all this internet,and website availability back then..oh hey man welcome back.lol...bob

Congrats on the progress. Just made some progress on my 67 recently. I ripped that ratty old dump body off the back. Looks so much better. I can just see the 5th wheel on there now... haha. I sure hope I dont whind up having to do a CSI investigation and recreation of the murdur of my brake components like you did. Will post pics of the old Dog soon. -Shawn

If you have cast aluminum brake shoe bodies with bolt on friction surfaces, and wear pads on the ends of the shoes, you might have problems. If you have stamped steel shoes with riveted linings you will be fine. These will use rollers on the ends of the shoes which are common. Typically they also use nylon, or plastic type bushings which are easily replaced. In the B series production run, all bushings were steel backed bronze. These nowadays are expensive as they are not near as commonplace as once were. Not to be disrespectful but every truck I've taken apart and worked with has had wear in the cams, bushings, and hardware of the brake system no matter the vintage, or brake type. This is a normal wear item. Granted, I'm a little extreme when it comes to maintaining or reconditioning something for myself, but I'm not about to place anybody in harms way to save a few dollars on a repair.

As has been stated time and time again on this board: brakes are something you don't slight. Getting your project to stop is just as important as getting it to start. Sometimes even more so.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Got a call from the machine shop this afternoon. Drums are done and were no problems cleaning up. They had forgotten to "hot tank" them after machining so that will perform that task tomorrow. Maybe I'll get them painted over the weekend.

Rob

Drums are done and look pretty good. They did clean up nicely and are round. Also are right at the wear limit for a working truck so this actually would DOT if needed, (won't be). Am dropping all six of them, a few grille shells, headlamp panels, fenders, inner panels, filler panels, and many small parts off to the blaster tomorrow to pick up on Saturday morning. Also took two sets of grille shutters apart to clean up so I can rebuild into one good set. I only have one good set of the older style shutters and a few sets of the newer style. Cash payment makes the job cheap enough I can't justify doing it myself on top of being old, fat, and lazy.

I'll get this thing to rolling again with all new wheel end and brake components, then get the neighbor kid to pressure wash everything to earn a few bucks.

What do you guys use for degreaser/crud cutter that is good? I'm not interested in environmentally friendly, I want what works. The truck itself is "green" so I don't need to be.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Got a call from the machine shop this afternoon. Drums are done and were no problems cleaning up. They had forgotten to "hot tank" them after machining so that will perform that task tomorrow. Maybe I'll get them painted over the weekend.

Rob

Drums are done and look pretty good. They did clean up nicely and are round. Also are right at the wear limit for a working truck so this actually would DOT if needed, (won't be). Am dropping all six of them, a few grille shells, headlamp panels, fenders, inner panels, filler panels, and many small parts off to the blaster tomorrow to pick up on Saturday morning. Also took two sets of grille shutters apart to clean up so I can rebuild into one good set. I only have one good set of the older style shutters and a few sets of the newer style. Cash payment makes the job cheap enough I can't justify doing it myself on top of being old, fat, and lazy.

I'll get this thing to rolling again with all new wheel end and brake components, then get the neighbor kid to pressure wash everything to earn a few bucks.

What do you guys use for degreaser/crud cutter that is good? I'm not interested in environmentally friendly, I want what works. The truck itself is "green" so I don't need to be.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

http://www.zep.com/ZepSearch/default1.aspx?search=morado&num=10&match=Exact&country=U

We use this at work for cleaning the floors, but it will really bring out the raw look in aluminum parts if not mixed down. Works really well for busting up the clutch dust/grease mixture in a bell housing. Just don't get it on your hands, eyes, or other unmentionable parts cuz it stings a fair bit!

"Mebbe I'm too ugly and stupid to give up!"

http://www.zep.com/Z...Exact&country=U

We use this at work for cleaning the floors, but it will really bring out the raw look in aluminum parts if not mixed down. Works really well for busting up the clutch dust/grease mixture in a bell housing. Just don't get it on your hands, eyes, or other unmentionable parts cuz it stings a fair bit!

We used to have a ZEP dealer in Peoria. I always liked their stuff cause it worked. We used powdered alkaline soap in the hot tank at the machine shop I worked in. If you splashed that stuff on the front of your pants you'd loose three layers of testicle meat before you got your pants off. Your parts however would be very, very clean.

I'll have to look for a distributor somewhat local.

Thanks,

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

I like "Red heat", think we've gotten it from Mcmaster Carr? Comes in 5 gal bucket and works wonders on most anything. Used it for years cleaning machines at work. Cut it with water, or spray it on full strength for the tough stuff. Don't think it's good on "nice paint", but anything else is fair game.

When I blew the rear seal out of Mack, it covered the back of my white bunk with splotches of grease(Yuk!). Small bucket, sponge and Red heat and it washed up nicely.

I'm googl'n right now to see where we got it.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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