Ac Now, Quickly!

[randyp]

Well, I am back on the AC for excavator again. My super smart genius engineering uncle says I should just shell out big bucks for red dot roof unit, (2,895.00 just for parts), but Coleman has RV roof air units on sale, one called "coleman polar cub", fully self contained, for lil over 500.00. Its a low profile design, lil under 10,000 BTUs of cooling pulling 43 amps. I have located generator already for 900.00, and have perfect place on excavator to mount it. I wouldnt have compressor mounted on engine, robbing any horsepower, and condensor is in roof unit, so no problems heating up engine radiator dealing with that. Not to mention how easy and quick it would be to install. I thinks I may just have to do it, that sumbitch is melting me down! I think I will also tint windows at same time. You all got any input? Is I gone goofy or what? well,,,goofier randyp

[Rob]

10,000BTU is not quite large enough for the job given the amount of glass and engine heat to the passenger compartment. It will also use more fuel averaged out than an engine mounted setup.

Rob

[randyp]

10,000BTU is not quite large enough for the job given the amount of glass and engine heat to the passenger compartment. It will also use more fuel averaged out than an engine mounted setup.

Rob

Thanks Rob, Colemans next step up is a 13,000 BTU unit, pulling 51 amps, requiring larger generator, and runs lil over 700.00. Im still doing some thinking on this, appreciate your input. randyp

[David]

Here's a prototype for you to follow............

ac.bmp

[slpwlker]

10,000BTU is not quite large enough for the job given the amount of glass and engine heat to the passenger compartment. It will also use more fuel averaged out than an engine mounted setup.

Rob

I am in agreeance on this one. Everything I have run from Endumps,escavators,and loaders I never noticed the power loss. you forget to get gas or diesel for the n and your gonna have a rough day. But I will say this Everything I have been in with a redot in it would freeze you out. 10k btu is more then enough. or you can get a bigger unit. I feel your pain on the no a/c. Although on the excavator I ran not having a/ wasn't to terrible. But the D30D end dump sitting right next to that motor in the Fl summers sucked. YOu didn't have enough windows to open.

[randyp]

Here's a prototype for you to follow............

ac.bmp

heh heh,,seen it all now david! randyp

[randyp]

I am in agreeance on this one. Everything I have run from Endumps,escavators,and loaders I never noticed the power loss. you forget to get gas or diesel for the n and your gonna have a rough day. But I will say this Everything I have been in with a redot in it would freeze you out. 10k btu is more then enough. or you can get a bigger unit. I feel your pain on the no a/c. Although on the excavator I ran not having a/ wasn't to terrible. But the D30D end dump sitting right next to that motor in the Fl summers sucked. YOu didn't have enough windows to open.

Thanks slpwlker, its a very small cab, is insulated good between engine and cab, still gonna ponder on this some more. Not really worried bout a lil extra fuel cost, long as I stay cool and in control. I have gotten sick on it 3 or 4 times this summer from overheating, tinting windows along with air may help even more, plus can shut doors and front window and stop breathing so much dust. thanks,,,,randyp

[Rob]

Thanks Rob, Colemans next step up is a 13,000 BTU unit, pulling 51 amps, requiring larger generator, and runs lil over 700.00. Im still doing some thinking on this, appreciate your input. randyp

As a reference a subcompact car runs an HVAC system in the 12,500-15,000 BTU range. You have to account for the solar loading on the system which is the bulk of the load, and you also have hot hydraulic lines penetrating the cab. 10MBTU unit will make you a more comfortable without a doubt, but it will not cycle, (most likely). The dehumidification of the ambient air will gain you the most comfort. It will stream condensate water constantly.

From your sales literature how large in cubic feet is the operator cabin? This would tell me a lot as to proper sizing.

Rob

[randyp]

As a reference a subcompact car runs an HVAC system in the 12,500-15,000 BTU range. You have to account for the solar loading on the system which is the bulk of the load, and you also have hot hydraulic lines penetrating the cab. 10MBTU unit will make you a more comfortable without a doubt, but it will not cycle, (most likely). The dehumidification of the ambient air will gain you the most comfort. It will stream condensate water constantly.

From your sales literature how large in cubic feet is the operator cabin? This would tell me a lot as to proper sizing.

Rob

will see if I can locate that Rob, I know I have it somewhere,,,randyp

[other dog]

here's what you need- thought I suggested this last year.

[Rob]

here's what you need- thought I suggested this last year.

That only works on JCB equipment as shown in the picture.

Rob

[RowdyRebel]

Well, I am back on the AC for excavator again. My super smart genius engineering uncle says I should just shell out big bucks for red dot roof unit, (2,895.00 just for parts), but Coleman has RV roof air units on sale, one called "coleman polar cub", fully self contained, for lil over 500.00. Its a low profile design, lil under 10,000 BTUs of cooling pulling 43 amps. I have located generator already for 900.00, and have perfect place on excavator to mount it. I wouldnt have compressor mounted on engine, robbing any horsepower, and condensor is in roof unit, so no problems heating up engine radiator dealing with that. Not to mention how easy and quick it would be to install. I thinks I may just have to do it, that sumbitch is melting me down! I think I will also tint windows at same time. You all got any input? Is I gone goofy or what? well,,,goofier randyp

Tinting the rear window & top 6" of the Mack sure made quite a difference in my truck! Add a reflective sunblocker thingamabob for the windshield when I'm parked, a couple small fans, roll down the side windows, and that truck stays cooler inside than I would be outside under a shade tree. I just used the 20% vinyl cling stuff...works good enough.

[randyp]

here's what you need- thought I suggested this last year.

heh,,,looks like a potential "clearance" problem there Tom,,,,randyp

[other dog]

That only works on JCB equipment as shown in the picture.

Rob

oh

[41chevy]

Try this type of window film. did this on our trucks and helps with cooling the interior and its not a pmp tint.

http://solargard.com/Auto/Home

[randyp]

Try this type of window film. did this on our trucks and helps with cooling the interior and its not a pmp tint.

http://solargard.com/Auto/Home

Thanks 41, will check into that,,,,,randyp

[peterj]

Thanks 41, will check into that,,,,,randyp

Just some thoughts... I've done both, engine driven and elec driven.

For my H67 mack, I bought a aftermarket underdash unit. The whole kit was less then $700. I got it from nosalgaair. I'll look up the correct name and phone if you need. They work with you on what kit units you get. I bought the largest (btu) under dash unit with heat and air. Then I got the largest condenser unit that fit the width mount of my radiator. The only thing you have to fab is the engine mount for the compresser. Kit included hoses, fittings, dryer, and everything you need...... You do have to cut and crimp the hoses . Works great, only problem was sealing all the weather stripping on the cab to keep the HOT air out..... Blows pleanty of cold air...

I put a polor cub 9000btu roof unit on my travel trailer. It too works good, but ita going to be more trouble haveing to have a generator to mount and run... The amps you quote are locked rotor draw... it runs on about 8 amps @ 115v, and needs about 16-20 amps @ 115 starting....

I have more info on runnig that on batteries with an invertor, etc ... but that is way more complicated...

Go with the engine driven unit... you may have to buy the compressor mount from the equip dealer if your not a fabricator...

If you want more info I read this board 2 times a day... just ask........

[randyp]

Just some thoughts... I've done both, engine driven and elec driven.

For my H67 mack, I bought a aftermarket underdash unit. The whole kit was less then $700. I got it from nosalgaair. I'll look up the correct name and phone if you need. They work with you on what kit units you get. I bought the largest (btu) under dash unit with heat and air. Then I got the largest condenser unit that fit the width mount of my radiator. The only thing you have to fab is the engine mount for the compresser. Kit included hoses, fittings, dryer, and everything you need...... You do have to cut and crimp the hoses . Works great, only problem was sealing all the weather stripping on the cab to keep the HOT air out..... Blows pleanty of cold air...

I put a polor cub 9000btu roof unit on my travel trailer. It too works good, but ita going to be more trouble haveing to have a generator to mount and run... The amps you quote are locked rotor draw... it runs on about 8 amps @ 115v, and needs about 16-20 amps @ 115 starting....

I have more info on runnig that on batteries with an invertor, etc ... but that is way more complicated...

Go with the engine driven unit... you may have to buy the compressor mount from the equip dealer if your not a fabricator...

If you want more info I read this board 2 times a day... just ask........

Thanks Peterj, appreciate the input, sounds like you have a lot of experience with that. I do know the one thing I want to stay away from is the condenser mounted in front of radiator, that would generate too many engine cooling problems here where I live. Right now, may change mind again later, but prolly gonna go with Red Dot roof mount, and drive compressor off engine, Its sure pricy, but in long run, prolly be cheaper. Thanks for help,,,randyp

[Rob]

Thanks Peterj, appreciate the input, sounds like you have a lot of experience with that. I do know the one thing I want to stay away from is the condenser mounted in front of radiator, that would generate too many engine cooling problems here where I live. Right now, may change mind again later, but prolly gonna go with Red Dot roof mount, and drive compressor off engine, Its sure pricy, but in long run, prolly be cheaper. Thanks for help,,,randyp

I have installed many Red Dot units myself over the years. Should you go with one of their units, build a cage out of some type of metal mesh, (such as old milk crate(s)) for a cover in addition to the plastic one supplied. Near every one I have worked with, or seen, this cover is broken or cracked where the retaining fasteners hold it to the frame. They are fragile as they age due to the sun beating on them, and the heat they must reject from the system.

I think if you incorporate a 15-18MBTU unit, you will be happy. I would however still tint the windows in your locale.

Rob

[slpwlker]

I have installed many Red Dot units myself over the years. Should you go with one of their units, build a cage out of some type of metal mesh, (such as old milk crate(s)) for a cover in addition to the plastic one supplied. Near every one I have worked with, or seen, this cover is broken or cracked where the retaining fasteners hold it to the frame. They are fragile as they age due to the sun beating on them, and the heat they must reject from the system.

I think if you incorporate a 15-18MBTU unit, you will be happy. I would however still tint the windows in your locale.

Rob

Going on equipment Locale doesn't matter on tint. Cage wouldn't be a bad idea but if your using a ramp trailer instead of a lowboy you may get into height issuses if it is over the boom. If your smacking the cab with a bunch of trees the cage will make a difference. I would tint the right side window,half the front and you can also get a clear film that blocks out more heat and uv then a dark film.or you can also take the top window out and put a rv fan in there to let the heat out and that will let you go with the smaller a/c as it will not have to work as hard.you could also mount the unit behind the cab since unless something is taller then the machine you'll never see behind the machine.that will keep the height problems down.

[Rob]

Going on equipment Locale doesn't matter on tint. Cage wouldn't be a bad idea but if your using a ramp trailer instead of a lowboy you may get into height issuses if it is over the boom. If your smacking the cab with a bunch of trees the cage will make a difference. I would tint the right side window,half the front and you can also get a clear film that blocks out more heat and uv then a dark film.or you can also take the top window out and put a rv fan in there to let the heat out and that will let you go with the smaller a/c as it will not have to work as hard.you could also mount the unit behind the cab since unless something is taller then the machine you'll never see behind the machine.that will keep the height problems down.

The sun is a lot more intense there than here is the reason for the locale blurb. A lot of operators up here don't care for the tint as they work at night.

Rob

[slpwlker]

The sun is a lot more intense there than here is the reason for the locale blurb. A lot of operators up here don't care for the tint as they work at night.

Rob

I misunderstood you. I thought you meant local municipality. likethe LEO. Not the Locale

[Rob]

I misunderstood you. I thought you meant local municipality. likethe LEO. Not the Locale

Naw, comfort is important to an operator; more comfort, more production, less bitchin, more time for beer drinkin.

Rob

[randyp]

The sun is a lot more intense there than here is the reason for the locale blurb. A lot of operators up here don't care for the tint as they work at night.

Rob

Rob, in my ramblings, found interesting site with interesting UNITS, check out visionaireinc.com. They have units that are either engine driven or hydraulic driven. They have one fully self contained unit, bolts to top of cab, hook up hydraulic lines and 2 wires and start freezing. I dont know height of it, but looks like would cover up whole top of cab. randyp

[Rob]

Rob, in my ramblings, found interesting site with interesting UNITS, check out visionaireinc.com. They have units that are either engine driven or hydraulic driven. They have one fully self contained unit, bolts to top of cab, hook up hydraulic lines and 2 wires and start freezing. I dont know height of it, but looks like would cover up whole top of cab. randyp

In your application a hydraulic driven compressor would be very efficient but will still be a parasitic load on the engine. It will however be less than an engine driven compressor, (which is neglible). For the sake of simplicity, I would stay with a belt driven unit as parts are readily available. Most Thermo-King dealers support the brand around here. Should you damage a piece on something not readily available, it may take a while to get parts.

Rob