Rob Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 Hey Barry, is the rain gutter available for the R models separate from the other cab panels and parts? Mine is a bit rusty after removing the roof skin this evening. I can make new but if it is available; sure would save some time.Thanks,Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/1993-r-model-rail-gutter-drip-rail/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 Rob, drip edges are available seperate...I think they come in several pieces IIRC...model & vin and we'll get 'em looked up! Quote Barry - Watt's Truck Center Parts Manager and BMT Webmaster...1-888-304-MACK Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/1993-r-model-rail-gutter-drip-rail/#findComment-9554 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted January 6, 2007 Author Share Posted January 6, 2007 Rob, drip edges are available seperate...I think they come in several pieces IIRC...model & vin and we'll get 'em looked up!Thanks Barry,RL755LST353591978 Model year.If you could, please reasearch the inner upper, rear cab panel also. The upper Pinch weld around the backglass is rotted away. I would just as soon replace with new as opposed to cutting my other cab apart. The cab outer rear panel is in good shape.On another note, have you had any luck with a slider back glass assy. for the rear on "R" models?Thanks again Barry,Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/1993-r-model-rail-gutter-drip-rail/#findComment-9559 Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKS Posted February 24, 2007 Share Posted February 24, 2007 Rob, how hard is it to replace the roof on the R model I have to do something with mine its rusting all along the back. Thanks for any info you can give me. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/1993-r-model-rail-gutter-drip-rail/#findComment-10752 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted February 25, 2007 Author Share Posted February 25, 2007 Rob, how hard is it to replace the roof on the R model I have to do something with mine its rusting all along the back. Thanks for any info you can give me.Hi there, this operation is not that difficult with a few simple tools:Use a screwdriver or small (1/2" or so) width chisel to remove the sealant that is poured into the gutter. This will usually come out in small chunks. If you use a heat gun to warm the area, the job is a bit easier. An air hammer with a 3/4" flat chisel does a nice job of cutting the roof skin where it transitions from a verticle plane to horizontal in the pinch weld area. Be XTRA careful where the roof skin goes around the corners of the cab as the clearance is much tighter. I used a 3" wheel grinder to barely cut through the exterior skin as my cab's inner and outer skin actually touched. I've repaired others that had 5/16ths to 3/8ths clearance, so yours could be anywhere between. Don't worry about removing the part of the roof skin that is welded to the rain gutter area. Take a small grinder an grind off any "flashing" that is sticking up till you have a smooth, paint free area.On the replacement roof skin, punch or drill a series of 1/4" to 5/16" holes spaced about 4 inches apart around the entire perimeter of the skin of the horizontal flange at the 50% width of this flange. This will be for "plug welding" with a mig welder. I've seen several panels of this type installed by gluing and plug welding the edges and I do not support this method. I've seen several failures of glued panels and this is my own opinion. After brushing or spraying weld thru primer on the bare steel and plug welding about 100 holes, and grinding the welds flush, I then apply epoxy primer to the area via a paint brush. The next day, the roof skin is prepped, epoxy primer applied to the complete panel and flowable seam sealer applied to the pinch weld area. A flowable seam sealer will self level/seal and get into any area where where water would get into. A couple of hours later, the area can be prepped for paint. Seam sealer takes and holds paint well so no primer is needed on it.I strongly recommend the use of epoxy primer as it is great at bare metal adhesion and I feel unsurpassed at corrosion protection. Hope this helps in your repair.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/1993-r-model-rail-gutter-drip-rail/#findComment-10769 Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKS Posted February 26, 2007 Share Posted February 26, 2007 Thank you very much Rob for all that info, once I get into it and see how bad it is I'll more than likley do it the way you did, Thanks Again Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/1993-r-model-rail-gutter-drip-rail/#findComment-10785 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panhead Posted March 30, 2007 Share Posted March 30, 2007 I have a 1969 U-Model with a bad drip edge and back to both the front and rear windows. I was going to replace the cab, but if there is any aftermarket part to cut that section out and weld it in it would be less work. Any information will be appreciated!Thanks,Panhead Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/1993-r-model-rail-gutter-drip-rail/#findComment-11444 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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