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Hey guys could use a little help I have a 1955 B with a 673 The water temp runs at 160. I was told the truck should run hotter water temp should be 180 or 185. They all so tell me if it runs hotter it will not smoke as much. That being said where the hell is the thermostat i can't seem to find it . Do you guys agree the temp should be hotter

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MIne runs about 150...never hot enough to even open the shutters...Of course, I would think the thermostat would hold the water in the block untill it reached 180 (or whatever the thermostat is supposed to open), then open and let the water flow...Everyone has told me that they wont develop much heat just running around bob tailing...

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Most of those engines did not have thermostats and relied on the shutters to keep the operating temps up. I don't know if you could retrofit an older engine to incorporate an in block thermostat, or you should build a shield to restrict air flow through the radiator. The temps need to be around 180 degrees to ensure complete fuel burn when lightly, or unloaded.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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I though all engine had thermostat. if it dose not have one do you ajust the shutters to make it run hotter. It dose not matter if I am pulling a trailer or bob tailing. 160 thats it.

There is a "shutterstat" that is threaded into the water manifold near the front. This has an air line that runs to the cylinder controlling the shutters operation. It senses water temperature and routes air to the cylinder to close the shutters when the coolant is cool. It cuts off and bleeds air to open the shutters when the coolant is hot. Some are adjustable, most are not. Cardboard seems to be the best and most cost effective solution for the low temp situation if you're not loading, or using the truck.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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I've thought about engineering a stainless "butterfly" type affair to incorporate into the upper radiator hose mounting area to restrict coolant flow driving the temperature up. Doing this cost effective so everybody could afford it is the problem.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Most of those engines did not have thermostats and relied on the shutters to keep the operating temps up. I don't know if you could retrofit an older engine to incorporate an in block thermostat, or you should build a shield to restrict air flow through the radiator. The temps need to be around 180 degrees to ensure complete fuel burn when lightly, or unloaded.

Rob

The water manifold is all that is different.

glenn akers

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The water manifold is all that is different.

Hi Glenn, I was referring to retrofit existing equipment on the engine. Something like a sandwich housing that would retain the thermostat between the existing water manifold, and the hose adapter.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Some thermostat numbers that might help.

No Longer Available Mack Six Cylinder Pre-ESI Engines – 155 deg. F

No Longer Available Mack Six Cylinder Pre-ESI Engines – 170 deg. F

215SB 164AP3 Mack Six Cylinder Pre-ESI Engines – 180 deg. F

215SB 165B Mack Six Cylinder ESI & ESI Plus Engines – 160 deg. F

215SB 165BP2 Mack Six Cylinder ESI & ESI Plus Engines – 170 deg. F

215SB 165BP3 Mack Six Cylinder ESI & ESI Plus Engines – 180 deg. F

"Mebbe I'm too ugly and stupid to give up!"

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