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My tach will only operate properly with barely a half thread of the cable screwed on...any more than that and it will either bounce around erratically or very slowly show increasing rpm and hold its postion irregardless of what the engine is doing.

Not sure whether the inner cable is too long from the shoulder to the end, or if the nut is too short and putting too much pressure on the inner rotating part of the tach

Any thoughts?!?

Thanks

Leslie

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ahrite,,man..good deal,,,my DM has a little chain welded to gas pedal linkage havent hooked it up but i have a couple choises,,got a stock used knob,,or a brand new one,,,fits a 83 cruiseliner,,its also pretty cool,,,but i will probably use the stock one with the bulldog,,,,woohoo.lol.bob

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  • 1 month later...

Update...measured the depth of the hole for the cable and it is plenty long to accomodate the cable...took off the engine side, found the issue. WIth the engine side off, the tach end went on fine. My engine end has an "adapter" piece between the cable and the engine gear. The adapter has a four sided hole for the cable, and a tab that fits in the engine gear and only goes in one way. I guess I was pulling this out from the tach end, and when I turned the tach end slightly to seat it on the engine side, I could feel it go into the adatper, but the adapter did not go into it's slot, which put lots of pressure on the tach end when trying to tighten...

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I had much the same problem with mine on my R-dump truck Leslie. I bought a universal cable, put it on, it bounced erratically and finally quit. i never messed with it anymore, but i bet you are on right track here. Thanks for posting that info, I ever get some of all this turkey, ham, and pie worked off, May dive into Tach cable again,,,,Muchos Gracias,,,,randyp

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I know what you mean! I usually slide under on the creeper between the tank and the front fender...will have to wait a few days after the leftovers are gone, or just work on things up top! I am suffering from Overeatus Stomachus Distension!

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