88R686st Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 hey guys hows it going? have any of you bought doors from mack recently for an r model. i was curios to see how much they are. i'd buy used ones if i could find them. but i want them to be rust free. also is changing the glass and all the guts out of door hard or easy? thanx Quote 88 R686st 80 R685 93 Ford L8000 02 Ford F550xl 06 Ford F550xlt 06 Ford F350 lariat Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/2167-doors/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 hey guys hows it going? have any of you bought doors from mack recently for an r model. i was curios to see how much they are. i'd buy used ones if i could find them. but i want them to be rust free. also is changing the glass and all the guts out of door hard or easy? thanxIt will probably take a person about an hour and a half to gut the first door and build up the replacement. Will probably take about 1/2-2/3 that time to do the second. I did both of mine in under an hour but that doesn't count the cleanup and greasing of the working parts. I did not need to replace anything.If you are not experienced in this kind of operation, only do one door at a time to use the second as a guide if you get lost.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/2167-doors/#findComment-10622 Share on other sites More sharing options...
88R686st Posted February 20, 2007 Author Share Posted February 20, 2007 thanks for the help. how much did u pay for your doors. mine are beyond repair and i cant wait to get her painted up. Quote 88 R686st 80 R685 93 Ford L8000 02 Ford F550xl 06 Ford F550xlt 06 Ford F350 lariat Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/2167-doors/#findComment-10623 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 thanks for the help. how much did u pay for your doors. mine are beyond repair and i cant wait to get her painted up.I did not purchase new doors. They were new OEM about 18 months ago from the previous owner, I only cleaned and oiled the moving parts as they were a little stiff to operate.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/2167-doors/#findComment-10625 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 New OEm door shells are roughly $650-700 these days...and thats with no glass or guts, just the shell. Quote Barry - Watt's Truck Center Parts Manager and BMT Webmaster...1-888-304-MACK Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/2167-doors/#findComment-10626 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bollweevil Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 Stripping the door is really easy, as the window, window regulator assembly all comes out together. If the door has a trim panel you will need to remove it. First roll the window all the way down, if there is no trim panel you can leave the door handle, and window handle in place. Then remove the door lock cylinder, by slipping a screwdriver under the clip located beside the door striker, and prying it back about 1/4 inch. Then remove the 3 striker mounting screws. This will leave you with a row of screws all the way around the outside edge of the regulator panel. Take them out and and carefully remove the window assembly. Before you reassemble the door loosen the 2 screws that attach the door striker to the panel about 1/2 turn. Start all screws before you tighten any, save the 2 striker to panel screws for last. If you are building up a door from scratch, it would be a good time to examine the lower mirror mounting bracket plate located inside the door. If the screw threads are good, mix up some JB Weld and smear some at both ends of the plate. When I had the brackets off my super liner for painting, that darn plate hit the bottom of the door when I removed the last screw. Have fun, James Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/2167-doors/#findComment-10629 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechmagcn Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 i'd buy used ones if i could find them. but i want them to be rust free. If looking for rust free doors for a R-model, check out the aluminum doors on a F-model. Only difference I saw was the mirror mounting holes were different.Jeff Quote 1971 Mack R600 Toterhome "Superdawg" living the life of leisure pulling 1999 NuWa Snowbird 34+2 SE102 "Dawghouse" Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/2167-doors/#findComment-10631 Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 Just was on e-bay. Someone on there is selling door shells for an r model. They were new. I think they wanted around 150.00 for them. I'll look again to see if I can find them on there.greg Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/2167-doors/#findComment-10633 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 Just was on e-bay. Someone on there is selling door shells for an r model. They were new. I think they wanted around 150.00 for them. I'll look again to see if I can find them on there.gregA word of advice on aftermarket door shells from experience. You truly get what you pay for. If you purchase new aftermarket door shells (produced in Taiwan via ebay etc..) be sure to undercoat them well on the inside, and also purchase 3M brand sound insulator pads (they cut down on resonance considerably) about 12"X12" and stick to the center of the door skin on the inside. These pads are not so much to dampen noise, (who the hell can hear much in an R model anyway), but to partially eliminate "skin flex". The aftermarket door shells have a lot more "flex" when mounted and I've seen 3 sets cracked around the mirror brackets, and door handles in my shop alone. I know Mack OEM parts are expensive, but if you go the extra money, prep and install them correctly, it will be money well spent in the long haul.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/2167-doors/#findComment-10641 Share on other sites More sharing options...
bulldogin Posted February 20, 2007 Share Posted February 20, 2007 i have found that doors off fire trucks are the cleanest .....most fire trucks are garaged all their live......just the mirror mounting is diffrent than a Rmodel....but the same as a F,DM and U model Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/2167-doors/#findComment-10653 Share on other sites More sharing options...
88R686st Posted February 20, 2007 Author Share Posted February 20, 2007 thanx for the info guys. ya if i cant find good used ones i will just buy new. i figure if i buy them new then they are gonna be good for another 20 years so i guess thats money well spent. Quote 88 R686st 80 R685 93 Ford L8000 02 Ford F550xl 06 Ford F550xlt 06 Ford F350 lariat Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/2167-doors/#findComment-10660 Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 Also if you go with used doors make sure to have the correct latch, the earlier and later ones are different terry Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/2167-doors/#findComment-10662 Share on other sites More sharing options...
phildirt Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 a yard in blasidell n y sells new door shells for $ 325 cash and carryif you are interested i will get a phone number Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/2167-doors/#findComment-10688 Share on other sites More sharing options...
37blackwood@comcast.net Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 Very true about getting what you pay for w/ after market doors! There is a company, PAI industies that supplies non mack parts. They just dont have the quality but will work fine. I have used them, what I did was use spray on truck bed liner inside the doors, I like it better than undercoating for rust proofing. I also used Ice and Water shield that you use for home construction as sound deadener, works mint. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/2167-doors/#findComment-10716 Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigDogR600 Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 (edited) On 2/19/2007 at 9:34 PM, Bollweevil said: Stripping the door is really easy, as the window, window regulator assembly all comes out together. If the door has a trim panel you will need to remove it. First roll the window all the way down, if there is no trim panel you can leave the door handle, and window handle in place. Then remove the door lock cylinder, by slipping a screwdriver under the clip located beside the door striker, and prying it back about 1/4 inch. Then remove the 3 striker mounting screws. This will leave you with a row of screws all the way around the outside edge of the regulator panel. Take them out and and carefully remove the window assembly. Before you reassemble the door loosen the 2 screws that attach the door striker to the panel about 1/2 turn. Start all screws before you tighten any, save the 2 striker to panel screws for last. If you are building up a door from scratch, it would be a good time to examine the lower mirror mounting bracket plate located inside the door. If the screw threads are good, mix up some JB Weld and smear some at both ends of the plate. When I had the brackets off my super liner for painting, that darn plate hit the bottom of the door when I removed the last screw. Have fun, James I'm stumped on the door handle and window crank handle. I've never seen anything like them in the sense that they seem to have pins running through them but I can't get them out. Any help on that matter? Edited November 14, 2016 by BigDogR600 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/2167-doors/#findComment-351921 Share on other sites More sharing options...
j hancock Posted November 14, 2016 Share Posted November 14, 2016 After pushing the escutcheon collar back, the pins "should" push out with a small punch. Sometimes a few taps with a hammer on the punch might be needed because dirt or gunk has jammed them up. Hopefully no one put JB Weld or something on the pins. That will be a problem. Quote JimIt doesn't cost anything to pay attention. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/2167-doors/#findComment-351925 Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmauto1 Posted November 20, 2016 Share Posted November 20, 2016 I just priced new door shells from my local Mack dealer. They were about $1,300.00 each. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/2167-doors/#findComment-352465 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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