Cab Removal on a B87

[hicrop10]

I am looking for some advice on taking my cab off my 1964 B87 tractor.Does anyone have the prints that the mounting,will try the my local mack dealer.I would like to do a total resto on this truck,we have owned it since new.It is in running condition my only worry is I can't see any major rust but who know once the cab is removed.Are there any body panals still avilable.Thanks for any help.Mike Durkin

[theakerstwo]

Its just bolts and nuts.

[maxidyne237]

Once the nose is off th truck and the radiator support rods are taken off there are only four cab mount bolts holding the cab on to the frame. There are no new B model panels available. You will have to find good used or repair what you have.

[vanscottbuilders]

Mike,

Glenn is absolutely right - it is literally just nuts and bolts.

And you might want to take photos of each step, just so you don't forget where everything goes.

Disassemble the fenders, headlight panels and hood from the truck. Unplug the headlight wiring harness and the main harness.

Remove all the air lines at the foot and dash air valves, the wiper motor and the air horn.

Take the steering wheel off and be careful not to pull out the horn button wire from the steering column.

Remove the clutch pedal, tach and speedo cables, throttle linkage, shut-down cables and any other miscellaneous connections.

From underneath, you will see the two front cab mounts. They are accessed from inside the cab at the kick panels on each side just ahead of the door posts. These are long, fine thread bolts - just keep loosening - they will come out. There is an assembly of upper and lower rubber insulators that will fall out also.

For the back mount - just look at the rear cab cross support beam. Near the center of the beam inside the cab you will see two bolts that are fastened through the frame support directly below. Same type of rubber insulator assemblies, and same type fine thread bolts.

My own experience has been that while these bolts can look pretty rusty, a little penetrating oil and some loving persuasion can get them apart in good shape.

Lifting the cab involves being able to lift high enough to clear the steering column and the shift levers - keep this in mind.

There are a number of bolted panels in the floor - take them out for easier access to the transmission, throttle and clutch linkage.

Personally, I have had good results lifting with wide nylon straps run through the door openings. We now use a spreader bar to reduce the "squeeze" pressure on the cab.

Once off - four good healthy guys can man handle the bare cab quite easily. Again, I have found that mounting the cab on a temporary dolly with wheels can make life a lot easier. And we have evolved our cart design to include a hinged front cab mount for the dolly so the underside of the cab can be easily accessed. If you build a cart for the cab, keep in mind that many overhead doors are only eight feet high. If you are sending the cab to a body shop, the height can be a limiting factor. Keep the temporary cart mounting as low as possible.

As with most of the steps in a B model restoration, this will make a lot of sense once you are into it.

I hope this helps.

Keep us posted with your progress.

Paul Van Scott

[hicrop10]

Thanks guys for your input.I am not at the stage of removal yet,I am still deciding if I am going to have do it in the first place.I am finishing up with a restore of a 1956 Ford F600.I took the cab off of that one,the cab was on the ground in about 3-4 hours.It sounds like the B model is about the same just a little heavier.Thanks again and I will post pictures as it goes along.Mike Durkin

[DCR]

Paul,

Glad you are still on here. You have so much to contribute and we all benefit from it.