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Love it. Nice work. So far I have filled a five gallon bucket with all of the old wire I've pulled from mine. I soldered all of the connections when I re-wired it, but I tend to be a little bit anal.

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

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We sell a few different ATO fuse panels at the shop so thats why I was going to use one rather than reuse the original one in the truck. I figured the wiring is going to be new front to back why not go all the way. I agree, overkill is consistantly more fun! I ran all 8 gauge wire for the starter, charge wiring, and supply to the fuse panel. The highest draw on the system other than the starter solenoid will be the headlights... I think I'll be covered. The wiring was so dry rotted and patched repairing it wasn't an option... First thing I did was diconnect everything and run two new wires down to the starter just so I could start it and be able to move it around. I was afraid there would be a fire the wiring was that bad! I had an assortment of colors so I used them, just to make it easier to trace the wires out as I hook them up.

Jason

-Jason-

1959 Mack B61T single axle short wheel base, concave cab. 673 diesel, duplex trans. Running but under contruction!

Love it. Nice work. So far I have filled a five gallon bucket with all of the old wire I've pulled from mine. I soldered all of the connections when I re-wired it, but I tend to be a little bit anal.

Do you mean you "tinned" the wiring before crimping, or used terminations soldered to the wiring? I don't use the insulated solderless terminals myself. I solder the termination to the wire, then shrink wrap the connection. It is mandated that way.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Ya I'm hoping for some good info from the museum... Sounds like I wont be disapointed!

Granted I'm tring to do it right and make it nice, but soldering all the terminals and connections??? Haha not quite that nice!

I can't wait to get it road worthy and take it around town a little. Just the reaction I got from my neighbors was suprising.... Everyone loves this truck (other than my wife, but all the more reason to keep it!!)

Jason

-Jason-

1959 Mack B61T single axle short wheel base, concave cab. 673 diesel, duplex trans. Running but under contruction!

We sell a few different ATO fuse panels at the shop so thats why I was going to use one rather than reuse the original one in the truck. I figured the wiring is going to be new front to back why not go all the way. I agree, overkill is consistantly more fun! I ran all 8 gauge wire for the starter, charge wiring, and supply to the fuse panel. The highest draw on the system other than the starter solenoid will be the headlights... I think I'll be covered. The wiring was so dry rotted and patched repairing it wasn't an option... First thing I did was diconnect everything and run two new wires down to the starter just so I could start it and be able to move it around. I was afraid there would be a fire the wiring was that bad! I had an assortment of colors so I used them, just to make it easier to trace the wires out as I hook them up.

Jason

The six gauge feeder will cover anything you will run in the truck for certain. I'm going to run dual feeders as I want the implement bed to be completely separate with work lights etc. from the truck. I tend to prefer manual reset circuit breaker protection and will probably go that way.

I have a shrink tube printer but have not used it yet for this stuff. Using this will allow me to name the circuit such as H/L, Horn, etc.

Wanted one for a long time so finally got one for Christmas although was told it was not for Macks!

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Do you mean you "tinned" the wiring before crimping, or used terminations soldered to the wiring? I don't use the insulated solderless terminals myself. I solder the termination to the wire, then shrink wrap the connection. It is mandated that way.

Yep; I do it the same way. I solder the wire directly to the terminal and than wrap it in a shrink tube. Goes back to my aircraft training I guess.

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

Yep; I do it the same way. I solder the wire directly to the terminal and than wrap it in a shrink tube. Goes back to my aircraft training I guess.
That is the best way. Time consuming but the inherent connection integrity is unsurpassed and when "milliohms" or resistance matter through the connection, it is the only way. Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Didn't have any 6 guage stuff available, but I think the 8 gauge should do the job, my truck doesn't have any electrical accesories and none are planned. Nothing says I can't add in a smaller sub panel down the road if I want to hook something up that higher draw. Really just trying to keep the wiring simple, the stock diagram I found seemed so overcomplicated for what it was running, especially considering there are no wires running to the engine for senders, ignition, etc...

A shrink wrap printer does sound pretty sweet, where did it come from?

Jason

Edited by jdstl

-Jason-

1959 Mack B61T single axle short wheel base, concave cab. 673 diesel, duplex trans. Running but under contruction!

Damn; Just saw your last post. Where did you get the printer? I want one.

I'll ask "Momma" when she wakes from her needed "Beauty Sleep". She actually purchased it but be warned, I know it was over 2 large to get.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

I use my "back yard -shade tree mechanic training" to fix stuff, and my "hillbilly radar" to find my destination. Worked pretty good so far.

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

Didn't have any 6 guage stuff available, but I think the 8 gauge should do the job, my truck doesn't have any electrical accesories and none are planned. Nothing says I can't add in a smaller sub panel down the road if I want to hook something up that higher draw. Really just trying to keep the wiring simple, the stock diagram I found seemed so overcomplicated for what it was running, especially considering there are no wires running to the engine for senders, ignition, etc...

A shrink wrap printer does sound pretty sweet, where did it come from?

Jason

My apologies for the mistype. My limited mental capacity dimenishes as I think more than one thought process....... I was thinking of the harness I'll prolly go with alongside yours.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

She actually purchased it but be warned, I know it was over 2 large to get

Oh well! I can't justify that for a couple of re-wires. It might be a good thing for someone to set up at a show and print shrink to order for those of us that are re-doing a rig.

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

I use my "back yard -shade tree mechanic training" to fix stuff, and my "hillbilly radar" to find my destination. Worked pretty good so far.

Yes, but it's a whole different set of operating parameters when you are doing this stuff for others.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Oh well! I can't justify that for a couple of re-wires. It might be a good thing for someone to set up at a show and print shrink to order for those of us that are re-doing a rig.
I've toyed with doing something like that for people but most will go with a "Painless Wiring", (as example) for their rewire projects and they print their wiring in several places along the length. This unit I have is not hand held but plugs into a computer and uses 150 ft. rolls of shrink tube. It also cuts it to the length after printing you program it to. Burndy, Ideal, Klein, and a few others make smaller and less expensive types but the cost per piece is considerably more to use.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

I used "cloth" covered wire for the 52 to keep it original, so I couldn't get pre-marked stuff. I did buy different colors/threads to try to match the original Mack color scheme. But, having the circuits ID'd at each termination would be nice.

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

I used "cloth" covered wire for the 52 to keep it original, so I couldn't get pre-marked stuff. I did buy different colors/threads to try to match the original Mack color scheme. But, having the circuits ID'd at each termination would be nice.

Especially when you have to get back into it for modifications/additions later on.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

One of the neat things Mack did on their fire trucks was to put junction blocks at about every six feet down the frame. That way it's pretty easy to trace a wire and/or add something to a circuit.

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

Thanks for all the positive feedback guys..

Got the rear light panel done today, I'm happy with how it came out. Weather is supposed to be pretty nice here tomorrow before it turns cold again, so I'm going to try and get the gauge panel installed and the looms partially run through the cab, along with cutting out the rest of the old wiring.

Jason

IMG_20120115_1619491.jpg

-Jason-

1959 Mack B61T single axle short wheel base, concave cab. 673 diesel, duplex trans. Running but under contruction!

Well so far no info from the museum yet, but I expect it any day... I'll post up a run down of the trucks history for anyone insterested.

Monday it was a crazy warm 67 degrees here in STL, so I got some stuff done. I installed the gauge panel, ran the looms comming off it, got the starter hooked up so I can start it with the key/button now (previously two wires hanging from the steering coloum..) Also cut out all the old petrified wiring.

I also scored a set of nice 22.5" dayton wheels with nice steer tires that came off a school bus through craigslist, for only $100 for the pair, I mounted them up as well.

I'm debating just throwing away the original front 20" tube type wheels/tires. I know I'll never put them back on, is there any demand for them or should i just pitch them?

Jason

-Jason-

1959 Mack B61T single axle short wheel base, concave cab. 673 diesel, duplex trans. Running but under contruction!

There is not a lot of demand for them but there may be someone looking for some. Being tube type the bead condition was not as conducive to leaking as later model tubeless types. If you have room I'd hang onto them just in case another collector on here needs a pair.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Wrap a chain around those rims and let the air out of them. I was told that is the safest way to store them. That ring can be deadly. If I am wrong, please let me know.

Nice job on the truck. Mack museum sent us all the info on our truck. Who bought it from the factory, plus the entire service manual. Which is a hg help.

Wrap a chain around those rims and let the air out of them. I was told that is the safest way to store them. That ring can be deadly. If I am wrong, please let me know.

Nice job on the truck. Mack museum sent us all the info on our truck. Who bought it from the factory, plus the entire service manual. Which is a hg help.

Shouldn't need to do anything with them to store. If they were in use, the lock rings are seated properly so they pose no hazzard. It is only when those lock rings are damaged, corroded, or misaligned during install do they pose a risk.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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