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Thanks!

Put our orders together to save on the freight. Ship to my place and I'll bring yours down sometime on a visit.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Put our orders together to save on the freight. Ship to my place and I'll bring yours down sometime on a visit.

Rob

I will call them today once I do some measuring. Columbia Freight$haker want$ clo$e to $10,000.00 for a $et.

But at least they are predrilled based on the VIN as it left the factory.

Some dork at the CIty of St. Louis spilled his coffee while working on the 40/64 expansion and took out a bridge pillar. The truck has less than 30,000 miles on it and has a lot of life left if repaired. It bent the frame rail right behind the front bumper and behind the rear front axle spring hanger into the shape of a Z. It looks like ZZ top was involved.

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I will call them today once I do some measuring. Columbia Freight$haker want$ clo$e to $10,000.00 for a $et.

But at least they are predrilled based on the VIN as it left the factory.

Some dork at the CIty of St. Louis spilled his coffee while working on the 40/64 expansion and took out a bridge pillar. The truck has less than 30,000 miles on it and has a lot of life left if repaired. It bent the frame rail right behind the front bumper and behind the rear front axle spring hanger into the shape of a Z. It looks like ZZ top was involved.

post-6658-0-42844000-1326804625.jpg

You best evaluate crossmembers and spring hangers also. These bend a lot with a hard hit shoving a rail back till it buckles.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

That Texas "Glider" is looking better with each post.
I got a call from a guy in Grand Rapids that has a 16' section including all crossmembers for $1000.00 so this needs brought into the equation. I need some detailed photos before purchasing from that neck of the woods cause I'd hate to have rust there too. Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

I agree, and I also think the girl on the right of the ZZ top dudes is too skinny for Rob
I agree. If the slide has no squeak, they are too small.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

I have new, blank rails coming from PG Adams for both this Peterbilt, and my B-61 project. I can drill them myself with my "Hougen" magnetic drill. Bout time I get some use out of it........

The Peterbilt rails are 16', (192") in length and are $1157.00 at my doorstep.

The B-61 rails are 12'6", (150") in length and are $968.00 at my doorstep. The inner side of the B-61 rails are also to be formed to fit exactly over the outside of the existing frame rails for a very nice overlap for welding/bolting. The existing truck is cut off about six inches rearward of the cab.

The actual cost of shipping will probably be a little less as they are going on the same order and these were priced separately.

I have to say these are some very nice people to talk to, and deal with.

Thanks for the help.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Rob, You can probably buy this truck for less than new rails...........

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item27c247916d

I can see it now, Rob strips the frame out of this one, then parks it around back, then he gets anoither one without a cab, and has spare parts from that one, then, in just a few short years, there is NO ROOM for any of his Macks, he has turned his place into a PeterWorth bone yard!!!!

SalvageYard2.jpg

I can see it now, Rob strips the frame out of this one, then parks it around back, then he gets anoither one without a cab, and has spare parts from that one, then, in just a few short years, there is NO ROOM for any of his Macks, he has turned his place into a PeterWorth bone yard!!!! SalvageYard2.jpg

I just don't see that happening.

Funny thing is the only place you ever see a large gathering of Peterbilt trucks is a salvage yard. This photo being no exception.

Wonder why that is?

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Tell you a little story that kinda pushed me over the edge to get new rails for the B-61 project also:

Just last evening I decided to take the frame apart so I could have the complete thing sandblasted including any "creep", or trapped rust. This decision was arrived at when I was sighting from from rear to front of the left side rail and it was bowed in between two crossmembers a little bit. I first took out the bolts that secured the rear crossmember to the rail on the left side and it heaved out a little bit. I then started with the next forward crossmember and once the fasteners were clear, the rail heaved out a bit more. Knowing I had a definate bend to this rail from some sort of trauma, I moved to the next crossmember forward. After removing the fifth bolt assembly from this crossmember, then attaching my impact wrench to the sixth and final bolt, that holding the nut on the other side of the frame, I zipped the bolt loose. Sounds normal right? Well keep in mind the frame of this truck is supported on tall jack stands, and secure. The frame is right at waist level to me and the height of this last bolt is about even with my waist. Well standing there holding tools I squeeze the trigger on the 3/4 impact wrench I'm using and the bolt offers no resistance to spinning off. The tension on this frame rail violently releases as the nut spins free of the bolt threads, forcing the impact wrench straight into the center front of my jeans formerly occupied by my testicles. Now if'n I'd still had "the boys", I may have experienced seven different shades of pain on short order but instead, I gave thanks to "Momma" for saving my ass yet again.

Someone must have used a chain binder or come along to winch these rails back together to bolt the crossmembers in after a collision, or upset. After both rails were apart and on the floor, the left rail has about 1.5" of bend in the middle. I could probably straighten it but there is also some rust thinning behind where the crossmembers, and shock mounts bolted on so new rails is the way to go.

Rob

  • Like 1

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Rob, Are those prices each or per pair?
Hi David, that is the pair of 1/4" 80,000 tensile strength rails not punched with holes, delivered. I deemed the cost to have them punch holes too expensive as I can do them myself.

I have the quotes in email and will see if I can post them. I think next month's bill cycle I'll get the double frame of "Project R-12" rolling also.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Back in the early to mid-seventies I helped a friend change the frame rails on several GMC tractors that Texaco ran. Apparently GMC got some bad steel and all of the trucks developed cracked frames. His thing was that we never backed the trucks up. He would drive them into the shop where we disassembled them, layed the new rails out in the opposite direction, and re-assembled them facing out so he could drive them out.

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

And no rust!!

Rob

The Quotes:

Mack

AutoAffairMac_Quote.pdf

The Peterbilt

AutoAffairPeter_Quote.pdf

As mentioned earlier I did not go with the punched holes option. Therefore there is no inbound freight which would have consisted of shipping old rails to them.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Vicon makes custom OEM frame here in Mentor, OH

We use 110KSI material up to 50 ft long

Our press in 4000 tons and our laser is 6000W x 50 ft.

We can punch holes, cut flanges, shot blast and powder coat black

All made on site

www.viconfab.com

Send me your sketches for pricing.

Usually 2-4 weeks

Thank you

Joe Geitz

800-962-7504

Vicon

The Mack frame rails are shipping tomorrow morning. Excellent service with very fast turn around.

Here is the final dimensions and they will wrap over the existing frame stubs.

Sketch_A_AutoAffairMac1.pdf

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

The Mack frame rails are shipping tomorrow morning. Excellent service with very fast turn around.

Here is the final dimensions and they will wrap over the existing frame stubs.

Sketch_A_AutoAffairMac1.pdf

Rob

Gonna overlap the existing stubs by about 17" which is up to the "splay" of the original frame. A section of the original frame, (not the cutoff replacement) will then become a "glove" to extend the strength and stress points of the assembly rearward. I don't want this to break under winching stress.

Here are the stubs I'll be going over:

post-78-0-94925300-1327068650_thumb.jpg

post-78-0-39541100-1327068652_thumb.jpg

The original frame was cracked, and bent from being overstressed so it is only good in small sections. I'm making the truck about two feet longer than originally was.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

does anyone know if its possible for them to make a double frame thinking of getting some new frame rails for the B 81 but would like to see both frames brought back not really sure what to do with the inner one if i just get a single frame.

thanks

sam

does anyone know if its possible for them to make a double frame thinking of getting some new frame rails for the B 81 but would like to see both frames brought back not really sure what to do with the inner one if i just get a single frame.

thanks

sam

Give them a call, they will make anything you need. Double frames are no more difficult than a single, just more expensive.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

New rails for the B-61 showed up today. Perfect I must say of the quality. Almost perfect 90 degree bends with smooth radius curves. The internal measurement of the frame is exactly 9.065", (exactly 9-1/16th") so these will slip right over the existing frame stubs. The flanges will be exactly the same width as the existing frame.

Whoever they have measuring, cutting, and forming definately knows what they are doing on a press brake. They brag on their quality and exact measurements and I will attest to it.

When the suspension parts come back from the blaster, I'm gonna be a hole drillin SOB getting everything to fit right.

Rob

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post-78-0-18446500-1327553674_thumb.jpg

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Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

Those look great - I took your advice and down and dirty checked all the cross members on the truck I was wanting to rerail and they were all tweaked. When I got to measuring, one whole side of the truck was 3/4 of an inch further forward than normal, all the way to the back with stress cracks, flaked paint and bends. Its a parts truck now. Good to know about that place.

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