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Ok guys, help requested again.

My C motor is now installed and I have a Luber-Finer oil filter behind the left hand side fuel tank. Therefore two large diameter plus one smaller diameter oil lines between the filter and engine.

I filled the sump with 20 litres (42 pints).

Started the engine and the oil pressure came up and then fluctuated (as I expected as the lines were empty of oil). After about 3mins, the fluctuations were still there but of a lesser amount.

I shut down the engine and added about another 6litres (13 pints) and now the oil pressure is good with nil fluctuations. This may still not be enough.

On checking the dipstick that came with the engine, this shows about 1 1/2inches above the full mark.

About the same reading as when it had the old oil in it.

I am extremely cautious about dipsticks as I have heard of numerous occasions where an incorrect dipstick had been fitted and when the oil was filled to the full mark, there was not enough oil in the sump with disastrous results.

Is it possible for someone with a C motor to say, put a wire all the way down the tube until it hits the bottom of the sump and measure the oil level from the bottom of the sump.

I know I'm paranoid, but after an engine change, I do not want another similar experience.

Comments appreciated. Thanks. Rod.

ps it sounds fanbloodytastic! :chili::chili::chili:

Proud owner of;

1961 Mack B61 prime mover.

1981 International ACCO 1810C DualCab Fire Truck

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Well you dont want to overfill it

( ever seen a Diesel run off with to much oil in it?) if its like a E6 or a standard E7 its gonna take at least 8 gals with filters to fill it-find a friend with a C with the same type oil pan & filter setup and mark your dipstick accordingly=Kevin PS I believe the Luberfiners are bypass- not primary filters also-so the pressurised oil probaly shouldn't run directly through it.

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Therefore two large diameter plus one smaller diameter oil lines between the filter and engine.

Hi Rod.

That sounds like you've got the Mack "Duplex Clarifier" type filter on there.

That would account for the 2 large (approx. 1 inch diameter) and 1 small (approx. 1/4 inch diameter lines.

Unlike a luberfiner the duplex clarifier is a combination full flow and bypass filter.

Every bit of oil from the oil pump flows to the filter and then back to the bearings etc. thru the 2 big lines.

The small line is a return from the bypass section of the filter.

Those filters were used up til about the early 70's when Mack switched to the spin on filters.

After a filter change, and before starting the engine, always pre fill the fiter housing all the way to the top, thru that large plug in the top of the housing. This cuts down on the time it takes for the oil pump to fill up that big filter and finally start feeding oil to the engine.

A standard Luberfiner is a bypass only type filter and would have only 2 small lines running to it.

My Mack book shows a capacity of 19 quarts in the pan, and 12 quarts in the filter for the ENDT 673 series engines.

Herb.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

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  • 6 months later...

Yes. I am paranoid.

I'm still VERY concerned re the proper oil level.

My dipstick is old, worn, bent and the oil level drops to the mark indicated on the dipstick, then the oil pressure fluctuates.

Surely a BIG sign that oil should be added. Which I do immediately.

What I would really appreciate, is the measurement from say, where the dipstick enters the sump to the full oil level.

I say where it enters the sump, as I need a reference point and most dipsticks are all different lengths. And my dipstick tube has actually slipped down inside the securing fastener. Again giving me an incorrect reading.

Or from bottom of the sump with a piece of wire!!!

Total oil in system is not relevant as my big oil filter is mounted back on the chassis behind the fuel tank and the amount of oil in those big long hoses.....

Thanks. Rod.

Proud owner of;

1961 Mack B61 prime mover.

1981 International ACCO 1810C DualCab Fire Truck

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Yes. I am paranoid.

I'm still VERY concerned re the proper oil level.

My dipstick is old, worn, bent and the oil level drops to the mark indicated on the dipstick, then the oil pressure fluctuates.

Surely a BIG sign that oil should be added. Which I do immediately.

What I would really appreciate, is the measurement from say, where the dipstick enters the sump to the full oil level.

I say where it enters the sump, as I need a reference point and most dipsticks are all different lengths. And my dipstick tube has actually slipped down inside the securing fastener. Again giving me an incorrect reading.

Or from bottom of the sump with a piece of wire!!!

Total oil in system is not relevant as my big oil filter is mounted back on the chassis behind the fuel tank and the amount of oil in those big long hoses.....

Thanks. Rod.

Herb is right on what he told you .I worked for mack in the 60s and i remember those days good just cant remember what i did this moring.I always used 32 qts if filter was on the block and if on frame add another qt. The way to check your stick calibrtation is drain pan and add 16 qts to dry pan and make low mark and add 4 more qts and make hi mark then when that is done dump the rest into filter top and i would always bleed the filter at the fill plug while engine is running the check. The filter # is 236gb340. If you ever have that filter can of do not revere the oil lines or you will need new engine. glenn

glenn akers

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When I change the oil/filter on my B, I put 3 gals in the sump, 3 gals in the filter. I marked my dipstick with the 3 gals in the pan only. It seems to be okay(after 6 yrs of runnin the wheels off it), but after sitting a few days, it seems to drain the filter back to pan as the stick is up again double what it was with 3 gals in it. I marked it there also, so before I get it out I pull and check it. Luckily, even near 50 yrs old I don't add a drop to it all summer.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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