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T2180


hurtpuppy

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I had a vibration for two years, it would come and go. took it to dealer told them i found a 25% piece of snap ring in the trans when i changed the oil about five years ago. They said it was the snap ring near the syncro pack. took the trans apart and the snap ring was still on, broken but still on, never came off. The mechanic said the vibration was not in the trans. but it was the clutch. His quote "the vibration would be gone when done". They put an upgrade shaft in it to except a thicker snap ring plus a gear and bunch of other stuff $3000.00 worth other stuff. The truck vibrates so bad now that it kills me to hold the thlottle in it. They are saying it is driveshafts and u-joints. When I push the clutch in, rolling to a stop and it is bumppy wich makes the driveshaft have back lash it sounds like there is a bucket of bolts clanging in the trans. It never did that before. The side cover was leaking a good amount of oil overnight so I took it off the cover to reseal it. I turned the rear wheel by hand and the timing never lined up with each other they are close but not on, is that something to be worried about. How important are them timing marks. Is it possible the new gear does not like the old gears and are not meshinh right?

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Thank for the reply macktrucks4

That is what I thought also. Just to be clear I am looking through the left side cover in the back half looking forward wich would be the back of the gears. I am going by the yellow paint marks that is on the grars. If you would go through the trouble to mark them with a yellow paint marker would'nt you make sure they lined up. Or am I looking at them in the wrong direction. and what i see they are off by one or two teeth.

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Thank for the reply macktrucks4

That is what I thought also. Just to be clear I am looking through the left side cover in the back half looking forward wich would be the back of the gears. I am going by the yellow paint marks that is on the grars. If you would go through the trouble to mark them with a yellow paint marker would'nt you make sure they lined up. Or am I looking at them in the wrong direction. and what i see they are off by one or two teeth.

I've never had one of those transmissions apart so don't know about this the way you are observing the timing marks. On a Fuller transmission, you cannot set them looking at the bottom. The paint marks are visible from the top only. It seems the only way to ensure they are correct is to remove the trans from the truck to remove the top cover, (it cannot be removed due to clearance to bottom of cab) and visually turn the input shaft to view the marks.

Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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It is possible they had them lined up but when you put the cases back together, you have to move the gears around a little to get them in place, and sometimes they will turn out of time. I know on the 6 and 12 speeds I've done in the past, it is the third gear that is timed.

Live every day like it's your last, because one of these days, it will be.

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Like maybe ever 70 times of rotation and they may line up again.I have never seen a trans that would vibrate unless it has a bent or twisted out out shaft. Maybe make a noise but a viabration is not a noise.I have done geras for many years and think about it in a trans there would have to be something out of balance to vibrate. Noise is very common in a gear box of any kind.As for a virbarion look at drive line problems and the u/joint working angles and that problem is connected to ride height. The ride height is very important. It changes the u/joint angles and this can cause a virbration. I have seen many noise problems and driver think it was a virbration.A vibration you feel and a noise you hear with your ears.

glenn akers

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thanke for the reply theakerstwo

I took it to a drive line specalest today, they said it had wear that was normal for 11 years old but they replaced the slip yoke and u-joints, didnt realy need it but they wanted to make every thing tight to rule this stuff out. the owner teaches class on this stuff and said angleation is verry important and will set it properly. They took it for test ride before the work and did not finish it today, so we dont know the outcome. but they dont think all this is going to fix the vibration they felt and herd on the test drive.they also beleave it is in the trans. I showed them how to put the trans. in Nutral using the nutral switch on dash, put trans. in high gear hi split let clutch out and feel the vibration and watch the mirrors shake the trans sounds like the back half has no oil in it but it is full. will post the results.

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got it back from new drive shafts and u-joints still no change . Took it to a trans and rear garage were that is all they do, went for ride and listened to the trans. with dash switch in nutral and gear shift in high gear, he said the problem is in the trans. he thinks when they put it together they for got a thrust washer or evan the little bearing that gets pressed into the main shaft. the other thing he said it might be is that the there is no preload on the counter shafts and they are bouncing around in there.

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this realy doesnt help you, last year i replaced my t18 with a mack reman and like yours it sounded like a can of rocks, if youd get a load on it in low range you could find a spot with the throtle and keep the vibration and rock sound the hole rpm range all the way from 8-900 rpm to 18-1900rpm in any low range gear, thank god i let mack put it in, they replaced the new reman with a new new reman for free, and it was fixed, i asked a couple time if they herd anything back from mack no word, good luck.

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