Rob Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 How do you identify which suspension you have? This one is air ride, and out of a 82 Cruiseliner.Thanks,Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superdog Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 I not familiar with the model #'s Neway uses,but I will tell you from my experience,they are a very good heavy duty suspension,but parts are high priced and sometimes hard to find.I haven't had to do mine yet,but have been told they are a pain in the ass to re-bush.The ride is good,but they make simple tasks such as greasing and adjusting brakes a real pain in the ass for anyone with any size to them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smorse54 Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Rob,in the mid to late 80's we had about 15 RWs and a couple MHs with the Neway ARD suspension. As Mike has said they are very durable,but are heavy and expensive to rubush.Check the bushings on the ends of the transverse beams, if these wear too much it ruins the stud that holds it together.Usually the first thing to go but if you catch it early no big deal,It"s probably an ARD 380 if it has 34 or 38 K rears that was most common. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smorse54 Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Rob, must be my memory is failing.That ARD 380 just didn't look right. I looked it up and it's ARD 244-6. Must be loosing it. That's what my wife tells me anyhow. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 I need to get new batteries for the camera today to supply photos but the bushings in this thing are absolutely shot where the swinging arms mount to the frame mount. I don't think they are metal to metal contact yet but are very badly worn out. I'm not going to do anything with it for the time being as I honor a promise to myself to not take anything else apart until something is back together.......I looked all over and did not see any identifying marks, or numbers but have not pressure washed anything yet. I'll have to get me another "skinny guy" around here as I do like to keep things greased and adjusted. I'd never be able to do it myself.Loosing it? I'm afraid you got a ways to catch up to me on that one Steve.Thanks guys,Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 When new they had a i think stainlees tag on it some were. Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidniteMechanic Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 If the tag is there yet, it is on the underside of the transverse beam air spring mounting plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 ^^yup, mine was on drivers side, under the bag mount.Check this website:http://literature1.s...AM111_en-US.pdfHere's my rear bushing. The pin was beat to death, so I ended up welding the pin area and grinding it back to fit the bushing. It's ready to go back together: Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
220cummins Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Just thought I'd chime in here. I finally got back in the the cruiseliner project. I just started tearing apart and looking at the conditions of parts of my set of neway tandems. Steve this would be the set I purchased from you. I haven't seen a tag on it yet and havent looked underneath the transverse beam to see the model number. I did get a hold of an old neway book from the brockway site and kinda narrowed it down to a ARD-244-6. Do this ring a bell? Either that or a ARD 234? I'm looking into rebushing the transverse beam, front pivot and axle pivot or which ever of them needs replaced. I've seen some urethane kits online tonight but have yet to check with the local truck parts dealer I deal with. Does anyone have any suggestions for urethane or rubber. I know urethane is much better on smaller applications and would think it would be on this too. Also after looking at the ARD 125 single axle that's in the truck it looks like there where two different air bags on it. One that looks original with a rounded over edge on the top bag plate. This would be the one I would like to use to replace the square edge bag top plate. The square edge ones look like they wear or chaff on the bag from rubbing on the bag top plate. Anyone have and suggestions? I'll post some pics tomorrow as to what im trying to describe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted July 3, 2012 Author Share Posted July 3, 2012 I've not touched mine and it still sets in the back of the shop on the outside wash bay.I'll try to remember some photos tomorrow.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
220cummins Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Heres the different airbags. The first picture shows the bag I think would work better with the rounded-over top plate.The second picture has the bag setup thats on the 38k Mack rears. The bags are chaffed and worn near the top from rubbing on the flat flange. This bag isn't too bad but the others are: rusted out top plates and worn bags. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
220cummins Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 couple more. I think its a 244-6 or is it a 234? This is the intermediate axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 I've got the new socket to fit the front pivot bolts(42mm), so I'm ready to disassemble mine to replace bushings. I'm hoping it takes care of the "hopping" situation at highway speed.I'd have to go look at mine to remember which bags mine has? Seems like it's the "left" style, but can't recall off hand. Since I put new leveling valves on, they NEVER, ever loose air even after weeks in the garage. Me likely! Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
220cummins Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 @ rob's original question "how to identify" look at page 8. This is how I figured out which one Im working with. @freightrain on page 24 is the leveling valve setup. http://www.huskidrive.com/files/downloads/neway_ard_manual.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted July 4, 2012 Author Share Posted July 4, 2012 @ rob's original question "how to identify" look at page 8. This is how I figured out which one Im working with. @freightrain on page 24 is the leveling valve setup. http://www.huskidrive.com/files/downloads/neway_ard_manual.pdfThanks for that link. I'm headed out while it's on my feeble little mind to shoot some photos.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted July 5, 2012 Author Share Posted July 5, 2012 Looks like an ARD 125-8 in a quantity of two. This however is not decisive as the air bag mounting pads on the transverse beam for the air bags are flat and not angled. The front hangers are also rounded at the top and differ from the center hangers which are concaved at the top. I do have the angled shock absorbers as shown in the link on both the front, and rear drive axle.Don't think there is a single bushing in this rear assembly that can be reused. It is 3.86 ratio however and I'd like it for the truck coming from Nevada for softening up the ride and a little better road speed. The brakes and all hardware including drums are shot beyond reuse also. None of this matters as all gets replaced anyways.Thanks again for the link. Now that I've seen an exploded parts diagram I know what I'm up against and not afraid to tackle the job. I built a portable 20 ton "C" frame press for king pins that I think can be adapted to push horizontally, (with a couple of adapters spun out) to push the pivot bolts out of the bushings in the arms. I'm certain they will be stuck fast.The frame is scrap and not planned to be reused. The truck in Nevada is an RL with an aluminum frame and the outside measurement is perfect for this suspension to roll under without modification.RobAnd the shop cat "Mouser 1" making himself comfortable under the suspension licking his hindquarters: Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
220cummins Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 You said the frame is shot? What exactly is wrong with it? I know these frames are 2 and 3 piece frames. If the frame is in good shape with no major defects ie twists, cracks or rust out. I might be interested I it? Is the front of the frame drilled to bolt up to the other cruiseliner frame sections or is it just burned off with a torch? Since these frames are in sections I have a few calls into pg adams and a local fab shop for quotes for frame sections to bolt up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted July 5, 2012 Author Share Posted July 5, 2012 You said the frame is shot? What exactly is wrong with it? I know these frames are 2 and 3 piece frames. If the frame is in good shape with no major defects ie twists, cracks or rust out. I might be interested I it? Is the front of the frame drilled to bolt up to the other cruiseliner frame sections or is it just burned off with a torch? Since these frames are in sections I have a few calls into pg adams and a local fab shop for quotes for frame sections to bolt up.It is pretty rusty and cut off with a torch. I have no need for it but will take it apart easily to see if you can use it. It has "stick out" of about five feet in front of the fifth wheel section. After rebuild the whole unit is going on an aluminum frame truck so I have no use for it. Do you have anyplace in Ohio I could drop it off at between say Columbus, and Canton? I get over that way seemingly often. I've not measured but may need to keep the xmembers for the spacing.You can't go wrong with PG Adams. The rails they made for me were as close to damned near perfect as can be. I highly reccomend them and will use them for my next set.Rob 1 Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freightrain Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 Rob, I went through this mess with my set up. The pictures in the books don't always represent the actual part. My suspension has the flat mount bags, but the pictures in the book only show the tapered mounts for my part number. ?????There should be a tag under one of the bag mounts on the crossbeam. It will even have a serial number. Quote Larry 1959 B61 Liv'n Large...................... Charter member of the "MACK PACK" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted July 5, 2012 Author Share Posted July 5, 2012 Rob, I went through this mess with my set up. The pictures in the books don't always represent the actual part. My suspension has the flat mount bags, but the pictures in the book only show the tapered mounts for my part number. ?????There should be a tag under one of the bag mounts on the crossbeam. It will even have a serial number.I looked under all four bag mounts fore and aft of each bag on both axles with no luck. Having the diagrams or representations, I'll get it apart and go from there.Thanks,Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
220cummins Posted July 5, 2012 Share Posted July 5, 2012 Same here...no luck under the bags for the tag. That's why I had to refer to the charts to identify the different type I or type II parts. The pictures don't help out at all. The existing ard-125 single axle in the truck now has the ID tag riveted on the passanger side hangers not on the bag plate. @rob-It would prob be better just to stick with PG Adams or Ritter (Local Fab Shop) and go with new rails. That way it's less of a pain than messing with a rusty wore frame that would have to be drilled,fitted and or patched up anyways. thanks for the offer though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted July 5, 2012 Author Share Posted July 5, 2012 Same here...no luck under the bags for the tag. That's why I had to refer to the charts to identify the different type I or type II parts. The pictures don't help out at all. The existing ard-125 single axle in the truck now has the ID tag riveted on the passanger side hangers not on the bag plate. @rob-It would prob be better just to stick with PG Adams or Ritter (Local Fab Shop) and go with new rails. That way it's less of a pain than messing with a rusty wore frame that would have to be drilled,fitted and or patched up anyways. thanks for the offer though!I just snapped more photos and the frame really is scrap. Many of the holes are not bored for mounting but rath torch cut. The suspension mountings do seem intact and there is no spread between them and the frame but the frame is definatly seen better days.The rounded top on the front mounting hangers is a bolt on item. The hangers themselves are concave at the top, and they are the offset types represented by "Type 1" in the nomenclature.I'm really happy with the PG Adams rails myself but I didn't have them do any drilling, just forming. I have a Hougen 505 "rotobroach" setup I purchased for this purpose.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
220cummins Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 Here's my rear bushing. The pin was beat to death, so I ended up welding the pin area and grinding it back to fit the bushing. It's ready to go back together:We must be in the same boat. My pins are wore egg shaped so its time to get "creative" to repair. By creative I mean to repair the pin correctly or replace the arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted July 11, 2012 Author Share Posted July 11, 2012 We must be in the same boat. My pins are wore egg shaped so its time to get "creative" to repair. By creative I mean to repair the pin correctly or replace the arms.I'd use some either 8018, or 9018 rod to weld them up and this area will have a harder wear surface than original. You could use hardfacing rod but that is expensive.I'm certain I'll be in the same boat as soon as I finish with my trailer.You could have "Axle Surgeons" true the pin for precision as they are not really that out of line in pricing. Of course knowing the local owner may have something to do with that.......Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted July 12, 2012 Share Posted July 12, 2012 Be carefull with the hard surfacing rod cause if you need to machine it it is in most cases to hard to cut with a cutting bit. Quote glenn akers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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