Brownie Shifter

[Speed]

:bmod1:

On my Eh the shifter for the 3 speed Brown-Lipe box is located on the passenger side of the main box,and is a genuine pain to shift. What is involved in moving it to the driver side where I can reach it without sliding across the seat? Are mounting brackets available,or do people just make whatever it takes to make it work?

It also has a really long throw,and has a hard time crossing from Low to Direct-it seems to hang up in neutral,like the shifter's out of adjustment. I've just been picking my range while it's stopped,since trying to shift the Brownie on the run just results in rolling to a stop fighting the shifter and having to start over again.

Also,I had to adjust the clutch when I first drove it,because it was set clear at the top of the pedal. Now I have it where it's more comfortable for me to use,but it only has abour 3-1/2 inches of travel from fully disengaged to fully engaged. There's still about 4-1/2 inches of un-used pedal travel there. Is it normal? I'm wondering if this is indicating the clutch disc is needing replacement. Still works well,though a little sudden.

I'm being told I can run this old flathead six at around 2,800-3,000 RPM's on the highway;is that so? The engine seems to be in good shape;warmed up it idles at 45 lbs oil pressure,comes up to a little over 50 at driving speed,so I don't think engine condition will have much bearing on how fast I can safely rev it.

Okay-enough questions for now-time for a little down time.

Speed

:bmod2:

[rick harper]

:bmod1:

On my Eh the shifter for the 3 speed Brown-Lipe box is located on the passenger side of the main box,and is a genuine pain to shift. What is involved in moving it to the driver side where I can reach it without sliding across the seat? Are mounting brackets available,or do people just make whatever it takes to make it work?

It also has a really long throw,and has a hard time crossing from Low to Direct-it seems to hang up in neutral,like the shifter's out of adjustment. I've just been picking my range while it's stopped,since trying to shift the Brownie on the run just results in rolling to a stop fighting the shifter and having to start over again.

Also,I had to adjust the clutch when I first drove it,because it was set clear at the top of the pedal. Now I have it where it's more comfortable for me to use,but it only has abour 3-1/2 inches of travel from fully disengaged to fully engaged. There's still about 4-1/2 inches of un-used pedal travel there. Is it normal? I'm wondering if this is indicating the clutch disc is needing replacement. Still works well,though a little sudden.

I'm being told I can run this old flathead six at around 2,800-3,000 RPM's on the highway;is that so? The engine seems to be in good shape;warmed up it idles at 45 lbs oil pressure,comes up to a little over 50 at driving speed,so I don't think engine condition will have much bearing on how fast I can safely rev it.

Okay-enough questions for now-time for a little down time.

Speed

:bmod2:

Why dont you use some apsco valves and convert to air shift. Just an idea. We have converted alot of mechanical transmission to air shift. think about it.

[Speed]

Why dont you use some apsco valves and convert to air shift. Just an idea. We have converted alot of mechanical transmission to air shift. think about it.

:bmod1: Hi Rick;

I'm not familiar with that,but it sounds like a good idea. Can you email me some info on the conversion,maybe some pics?

Speed :bmod2:

[HK Trucking]

It also has a really long throw,and has a hard time crossing from Low to Direct-it seems to hang up in neutral,like the shifter's out of adjustment.

Sounds like it is out of adjustment, and probably all rusted up from not being used for a long time.

A hard time crossing thru neutral from low to direct sounds like the gates in the 2 shift rails are not lined up properly.

Get some PB Blaster and soak every clevis and pin on the shift rods between the shifter and the transmision, also spray plenty on the shifter mechanism itself. I'm not that familiar with your exact setup, but if there's a rubber boot where the stick enters the shifter, peel the rubber boot back and soak the ball joint there too.

Now repeatedly work the shifter thru all positions to free it up.

Once it is moving freely, check the adjustment of the shift rods. With the stick in neutral the rods must be adjusted so that the gates in each shift rail are lined up exactly with one another and the stick can move freely sideways from one rail to the other. Adjust the rod(s) by removing the clevis at one end, loosen the jam nut and turn the clevis as required to shorten or lengthen the rod. Trial and error will be required til you get the neutral gate lined up perfectly.

If the location of the shifter is not quite where you want it, you could just heat the stick with a torch (a few inches from the bottom so you don't wreck the shift mechanism) and bend the stick over a bit closer , or maybe bend both sticks closer to the drivers side. Just be careful not to start a fire in the cab!!!!

My opinion on the air shift is that if this was a work truck and that would make it get the job done better, then maybe it might be worthwhile, but on a classic such as this the stock shifter working properly would be much nicer.

[Packer]

Speed,

Back in the good ol' days(?) the Aux shifter was on the passenger side of the cab except on a Mack. Mack put it where it should have been(the one ya shift the most was close to you) while every one else put it on the wrong side!

Remember that those RPM changes were 300 RPM - give or take - and not 1000 to 1500 RPM as a gas engine would be. That may be some of the problem trying to shift.

Packer

[Speed]

Speed,

Back in the good ol' days(?) the Aux shifter was on the passenger side of the cab except on a Mack. Mack put it where it should have been(the one ya shift the most was close to you) while every one else put it on the wrong side!

Remember that those RPM changes were 300 RPM - give or take - and not 1000 to 1500 RPM as a gas engine would be. That may be some of the problem trying to shift.

Packer

:bmod1: Hey Packer;

Just had a llittle luck with the shifter;sprayed it down a few times with WD and ran it through the gears several times after each application,it works quiter a lot easier now.

Hi, HK;

We heated the stick last night and pulled it over towards the main stick a little,actually got it a bit too close and the sticks got in each others' way in a couple of gears so we re-bent the aux. stick back towards the seat a little. I think this'll work. The only possible conflict would be reverse-overdrive,and I donm't think I'd be using that particular combination anyway. If I DO,it just means I'll have to shift progressively(so one stick will "release" the other one.)

We got the hitch done and got the front bumper built and installed-it looks pretty impressive! I upholstered the seats in saddle blanket.

The mast is on for the boom,we're having to build hinges for it and the drill press isn't working too well,so it's slow going. That and the tow bar brackets are about all that's left to do on the Well,I might try to cut a window for the left door and engineer a pull strap to raise and lower it until I figure out where to find window riser parts. I noticed the '46 Chevy truck rebuild kits look a lot like what I took out of the ,so I might try a conversion later on. Same goes for the windshield regulator,only the Chevy has a crank and the has a big wing-nut.

We got a couple of video clips of me and the ,I'll try to get 'em posted here somewhere. They're also on Youtube,but I haven't figured out all the tech BS to get them to work here yet.

:bmod2:

Speed