my new Autocar

[Rob]

I don't think Rustoleum corp. makes a base/clear type of finish. It is all single stage meaning it should have gloss as applied.

You prolly have a couple of options here. The first would be to sand the truck with 320 grit paper and repaint complete, or sand the truck with 1000 grit and use an acrylic enamel clearcoat over the existing paint. I really think repainting the truck would be less expensive as the automotive clearcoats are not inexpensive.

Typically, lack of gloss is either from spraying the color too dry to not allow flowout of the film, or spraying with much too fast of solvent evaporation. With a very fast dry reducer used, humidity, or moisture entrapment can kill gloss on short order also. Using the industrial paint you have chosen it should have very good gloss but you need to be comfortable with spraying it as the film stays "open" for a long time. This means it runs easily. I like a .043 tip and about 45psi air cap pressure for this material.

Rob

[other dog]

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[220cummins]

a rule of thumb would be not to use a un-catalzyed finish "rustoleum" with a catalzyed top coat "clear coat with activator" the two are different paint systems. You shouldn't mix systems. Use a complete Base/Clear Coat system, a single stage acrylic enamel, or just an oil based "rustoleum" enamel seperatly not together.

[Bigdogtrucker]

the paint i used was rustoleum hunter green

I thought i've seen that color before!

[Jocko]

ok thanks for the info guys. im probably gonna do what rob said "1000 grit and use an acrylic enamel clearcoat over the existing paint."

[Rob]

ok thanks for the info guys. im probably gonna do what rob said "1000 grit and use an acrylic enamel clearcoat over the existing paint."

Do a test panel first for compatibility as I'm not 100% certain it will work.

Rob

[Jocko]

i will do that sir, thanks for the help. also did i use the right thinner. on the back of the rustoleum can it said to use acetone thinner.was that right or should i use something else, and if so, what should i use

[Rob]

i will do that sir, thanks for the help. also did i use the right thinner. on the back of the rustoleum can it said to use acetone thinner.was that right or should i use something else, and if so, what should i use

There is your/the problem. Acetone is a very fast evaporating solvent. It starts to evaporating as soon as it left the gun. I think they may have meant to use acetone for cleanup, not actual spray reduction. Rustoleum markets a reducer specifically for their products.

Rob

[220cummins]

I read the TDS "technical data sheet" from the rustoleum website. It does say reduce with 15% acetone if used as spraying. Everytime I've used for a Rustoleum product that wasn't in there commercial line of finishes with a catalyst (9400 polyutherane series) I've had luck with just reducing it with mineral spirits. The amount was just by checking the consistency with my eyes.Not too thin not so thick it wouldn't go thru a 1.5 tip in a gravity gun or too thick to use a common syphon gun.

[Rob]

I read the TDS "technical data sheet" from the rustoleum website. It does say reduce with 15% acetone if used as spraying. Everytime I've used for a Rustoleum product that wasn't in there commercial line of finishes with a catalyst (9400 polyutherane series) I've had luck with just reducing it with mineral spirits. The amount was just by checking the consistency with my eyes.Not too thin not so thick it wouldn't go thru a 1.5 tip in a gravity gun or too thick to use a common syphon gun.

Can't say I've used much of their products myself with the exception of the "Hard Hat" series. I always used VM&P naptha to reduce it to 18 seconds in a #2 Jahn cup. This has always worked well for me but it's not an automotive finish.

Rob

[220cummins]

What is a jahn cup?

[Rob]

What is a jahn cup?

It is a cup with a hole in the bottom of it. After mixing and reducing the paint to be sprayed, you place this cup into the paint and with a stopwatch, time how long it takes the cup to empty. 17 to 21 seconds is very common for most automotive finishes, but your heavier based industrial enamels and such require different viscosities for correct flow out of the topcoat. This can also vary considerably with the type and size of spray equipment used. I always used one as there was no guesswork and it was a variable that needed eliminated.

Rob

[Jocko]

thank you 220 cummins next time i will use mineral spirits