leversole Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Wanted to check and see if my driveshaft was bottomed out and contributing to the bounce problem I have...anyway, I guess the U joint caps are spot welded to the cups?What is a good way to get the U joint out? The manual is no help...back in the day I got a lot of them (on cars) apart with two sockets and a C Clamp, pressing on one cup and forcing the other side out. Is this a good way to do the "big" ones? Maybe a 2 jaw puller? Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24407-u-joints-not-u-model/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
umodelnut Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 I know its not U model, heres a question that kind of relates to this. When i'm driving my U around and I look out the back window, my drive shaft, as its spinning, is moving up and down at the same time. Its supposed to do that isnt it? Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24407-u-joints-not-u-model/#findComment-113400 Share on other sites More sharing options...
joes mack Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 this might not be the right way but i always try and ger the two cups that i want to remove turned to the sides and take a dead blow hammer or a 2pound with a piece of 2x4 and tap on the yoke and push out the cups. like i said it might not be the right way but most of the time when i take one out im going to change it any way. joe Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24407-u-joints-not-u-model/#findComment-113406 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Wanted to check and see if my driveshaft was bottomed out and contributing to the bounce problem I have...anyway, I guess the U joint caps are spot welded to the cups? What is a good way to get the U joint out? The manual is no help...back in the day I got a lot of them (on cars) apart with two sockets and a C Clamp, pressing on one cup and forcing the other side out. Is this a good way to do the "big" ones? Maybe a 2 jaw puller? There are a couple of different pullers for those that make the job easy. After removing the capscrews, and grease zerk, this cup type affair slips onto the ear of the drive yoke, and the legs bear against the driveshaft yoke. When turning the push screw in, the joint and one cap is forced out. After the cap is pushed out, the shaft is rotated, the puller remounted, and the operation repeated. The installation is the reverse of taking it apart. Another way is to remove the capscrews and zerk, and use a jack against the bottor front of the driveshaft yoke and lightly tapping the area with a hammer. The weight of the truck and vibration of the hammer will usually break them free. These can be a real bitch to get loose if they have been in for several years. Upon reassembly ensure the capscrew holes are aligned before pushing them in with a jack or "C" clamp because you cannot rotate them once pushed in. I have a tool for that too. Mine are made by Tiger Tool out of Canada. OTC also produces them but not as high of quality part in my opinion. I have the #102 tool for removing and installing the joints.Go to www.tigertool.com to see it work.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24407-u-joints-not-u-model/#findComment-113407 Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenGiant2 Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Wanted to check and see if my driveshaft was bottomed out and contributing to the bounce problem I have...anyway, I guess the U joint caps are spot welded to the cups?What is a good way to get the U joint out? The manual is no help...back in the day I got a lot of them (on cars) apart with two sockets and a C Clamp, pressing on one cup and forcing the other side out. Is this a good way to do the "big" ones? Maybe a 2 jaw puller?i had to put a floor jack on mine to break them loose. left all in position and set jack on floor and filled space between , then used smaller socket to slide thru yoke.gg2 Quote We the unwilling, Lead by the unqualified, are doing the impossible, for the ungrateful. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24407-u-joints-not-u-model/#findComment-113409 Share on other sites More sharing options...
leversole Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 Thanks all...Damn, Tiger is sure proud of thier puller! I requested their catalog... Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24407-u-joints-not-u-model/#findComment-113430 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Thanks all...Damn, Tiger is sure proud of thier puller! I requested their catalog...They have about doubled in price within the past couple of years. They do work well.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24407-u-joints-not-u-model/#findComment-113435 Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 I use a jack to remove and two studs (or bolts with the heads cut off) for installing the cups. Simply install the studs, then the cup, remove the studs and install the cap screws. If you have full thread studs, you can pull the cap in with two nuts and a deep socket. Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24407-u-joints-not-u-model/#findComment-113472 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.