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I am 3 1/2 hrs away from my Mack and I have a mechanic that would like to start working on it for me since I never seem to get a chance when I am home to see the family because I get put to work :loldude: . So the mechanic wanted to know what fuel pump the truck had (i thought it was a 6 BB2 bosch?) and any other specs, diagrams and schematics. I dug thru the wiki pages and found a little info but could definitely use any help since the big repair manual my dad bought for the truck is the wrong one. Any help would be appreciated!!!

HG

P.S. I have an all but new TS-473 Manual that I would be willing to trade for a TS-442, let me know if any of you are interested.

The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by the people who vote for a living.

The government can only "give" someone what they first take from another.

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1957 Mack B753LS 1364, turbo charged thermodyne, 5 and a 4 transmission.

The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by the people who vote for a living.

The government can only "give" someone what they first take from another.

It should be an American Bosch APE-6BB series pump.......should be a riveted tag on the outboard side of the pump that has the model #, serial # & timing specs.

Thanks, that will help get the mechanic started (hopefully) on my truck.

The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by the people who vote for a living.

The government can only "give" someone what they first take from another.

Anybody? I know it vague but anything could help, things like firing orders, how much compression should the engine have, any usually have problems with this engine or anything else that may help me. I am going over to the Flathead sometime in the next month or so and have a mechanic lined up and would like to have as much info as possible that way I can maybe have these kind of technical answers for him so I can keep him moving and get my truck up and running before I run out of money to get her going. My goal is to get this truck running reliably enough to drive home 176 miles over a pass and to my house so I can tinker and work on it a little at a time as money allows at my leisure. Thanks guys.

The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by the people who vote for a living.

The government can only "give" someone what they first take from another.

With the '3' after the B75, it was equipped with the ENDT-673. Horsepower is 205 @ 2100 RPM. Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. Normal cyl. compression is 425 - 460 PSI. 560 ft.lb. torque @ 1400 - 1600 RPM. Issues? None really other than make sure the injection pump timing is correct, keep your oil, air & fuel filters regularly serviced, your valves properly adjusted (cold static setting), keep the engine RPM's within the operating range (1500-2100) & no lugging. Mack used to have metal plates on the dash panels that told you the operating ranges of the particular engine that was in your truck. The 205 HP turbo was in existence during the late 50's & early to mid 60's & then they upped the HP to 225 and later to 250 (ENDT-673C).

Sounds like a classic workhorse truck ~ a 'true survivor'! Hope it has power steering!

Good luck with it! .

Thanks for all of the info this I am sure will come in handy when we get elbow deep in this project. Again thanks so much for all of the info.

The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by the people who vote for a living.

The government can only "give" someone what they first take from another.

Turbo can't build up enough boost (air) at RPM's below 1500 to successfully burn the fuel being injected (black smoke/incomplete combustion). It puts a strain on the pistons & rings as well as pushing up the exhaust temps. Biggest thing is that the insufficiently burned fuel in the cylinders can score your piston liners & rings. Used to be called 'scrubbing' that will lead to blow-by, oil consumption as well as diluting the oil in your crankcase. Plus, the carbon build-up on the valves & pistons would be substantial. A real bad practice & kinda shows what the driver's skill 'isn't'!! Basically, if you like lugging the engine all the time, lay aside enough $$ to do an in-chassis rebuild down the road. The dash plate should say (at the bottom): 'Do not overspeed or lug engine'. They mean it!

  • 5 weeks later...

Sorry Vinny just saw your post, I have pictures of my truck in my gallery. A quick update on the progress, found out series/parrallel switch does not work in the truck. My dad is going to pull the starter off and take it in to town to get a new 12 volt starter to convert it over. The mechanic said that he didnt see any fuel filters on the truck but I cant hardly believe that. He said he would look again when I questioned him about it. Hopefully in the near future after I get my schedule for my new job I can go over for 4 days and work on it with the mechanic.

The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by the people who vote for a living.

The government can only "give" someone what they first take from another.

I can't believe she hasn't any fuel filters.

Just follow fuel lines in direction from tanks to a fuel pump and you wouldn't miss them.

You wrote about some "pass".

Do you livin' the area of nice snow toped rocks as on your avatar?

Vlad.

Никогда не бывает слишком много грузовиков! leversole 11.2012

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