mclow Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Hi guys Im new to this forum and I had a question about my T2090 grinding from hi to low. I have heard that the syncro is the weak link in these transmissions, so is this a common problem and what should I look for if I pull the transmission? Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24980-range-syncro-grinding-when-going-for-hi-to-low/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
smorse54 Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Yes, it's a very common problem on these.You don't have to remove the whole trans. to replace the clutch packs.There are tools available to hold the countershafts in place to remove the back section. Or you can make your own. Should have a manual before doing this. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24980-range-syncro-grinding-when-going-for-hi-to-low/#findComment-118226 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mclow Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 Yes I bought a manual but its says to remove the transmission and stand it up vertical before removing the auxillary housing. It was revised in 1999. Do you know how to make these tools to hold the countershafts? Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24980-range-syncro-grinding-when-going-for-hi-to-low/#findComment-118238 Share on other sites More sharing options...
smorse54 Posted May 8, 2012 Share Posted May 8, 2012 Hi, if you need to replace/inspect clutch go ahead and pull complete trans. But if this is only problem it is easier to make or borrow a fixture .if you remove the top cover from the compound section you will see the bearing retainer for the rear of the mainshaft. This is held on by 7/16' bolts. remove the top left bolt. You want to make a bracket that is attachted thru this bolt hole and extends rearward and goes into the sliding clutch of the syncro. If the syncro is held forward that in turn holds the 3 countershafts so the cover can be removed without the shafts falling out.I can take pictures tomorrow of the fixture and post after work. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24980-range-syncro-grinding-when-going-for-hi-to-low/#findComment-118243 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mclow Posted May 8, 2012 Author Share Posted May 8, 2012 Pictures would be great! I appreciate it Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24980-range-syncro-grinding-when-going-for-hi-to-low/#findComment-118266 Share on other sites More sharing options...
smorse54 Posted May 9, 2012 Share Posted May 9, 2012 I have casually looked for 2 days, cannot find kit. must be loaned out. If you take top cover of rear section you will see what you have to do.Maybe someone else on here can help with pics. sorry, Steve Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24980-range-syncro-grinding-when-going-for-hi-to-low/#findComment-118478 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mclow Posted May 11, 2012 Author Share Posted May 11, 2012 Thats ok....I hope i can pull the top cover without interfering with the cab. I might just have to pull the whole trans Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24980-range-syncro-grinding-when-going-for-hi-to-low/#findComment-118671 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 Thats ok....I hope i can pull the top cover without interfering with the cab. I might just have to pull the whole transYou can pull the rear cover but not the top. It is always easier if the trans is out of the truck.Rob Quote Plodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke. Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24980-range-syncro-grinding-when-going-for-hi-to-low/#findComment-118673 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mclow Posted May 12, 2012 Author Share Posted May 12, 2012 I thought you had to pull the top to get the rear section off because the shift fork is on the synchro? Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24980-range-syncro-grinding-when-going-for-hi-to-low/#findComment-118818 Share on other sites More sharing options...
smorse54 Posted May 12, 2012 Share Posted May 12, 2012 Yes, you have to pull the cover off the rear compound. Rob is refering to the main shift cover that has the forks that shift the main . In some chassis ther is not enough clearance to remove that cover. But,yes you have to remove the rear cover if you plan on taking rear section off as ther are 2 bolts in there for the rear case. These are both at the top where you can easily see and remove them. I haven,t forgot trying to get pics of the holding fixture. Steve Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24980-range-syncro-grinding-when-going-for-hi-to-low/#findComment-118824 Share on other sites More sharing options...
mclow Posted May 13, 2012 Author Share Posted May 13, 2012 cool thanks guys I think I will just pull the entire transmission to check the condition of the clutch also and possibly save a few headaches Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24980-range-syncro-grinding-when-going-for-hi-to-low/#findComment-119144 Share on other sites More sharing options...
theakerstwo Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 To pull rear section you need a tool group or build your own plates unless its in a cab over. A cab over you can use some tir wire and cut it as you go in. Quote glenn akers Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24980-range-syncro-grinding-when-going-for-hi-to-low/#findComment-119399 Share on other sites More sharing options...
skip Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Easy if you have the right tool. If not, you gotta weigh up the time it takes for you to fuck around half getting into it. Personally if I didnt have the tool straight away Id just pull the whole box out. Take a fuel tank off and roll the box out. They are pretty simple. Then just sit the box on its snout and pull the back section off piece by piece. The last one I did had an uppgraded synchro and I had to replace the mating gear on either side of the synchro which ran into a few dollars. Check the fork to make sure its not worn out, you can build it up and machine it to suit the sliding clutch if need be. Or buy it new. I used PAI parts in my last couple and I havent had any trouble, and it was cheaper than buying genuine parts. You have to think about a 9spd, they arent a great box at the best of times, but they are expensive to do up, and we are only talking about the rear section, if you had to re-race the whole box, replace the odd gear and sliding clutch you are nearly up for the cost of an 18spd. Here locally you would struggle to get $2000 for a good used 9spd, and to do the rear section up would nearly cost you double that with labour. Good luck, let us know how you go.Cheers, Skip Quote Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/24980-range-syncro-grinding-when-going-for-hi-to-low/#findComment-121379 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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