What a day:

[fxfymn]

Make sure you get a spare with the 17,5 tires. A buddy of mine pulls a Landoll with these tires and he tells me he has had a devil of a time finding replacements when one has blown out. And he said when they do find one the price tends to be outrageous compared to what he pays at his normal tire shop.

[Rob]

Make sure you get a spare with the 17,5 tires. A buddy of mine pulls a Landoll with these tires and he tells me he has had a devil of a time finding replacements when one has blown out. And he said when they do find one the price tends to be outrageous compared to what he pays at his normal tire shop.

Yes sir this is good advice. I will carry a spare with me on both the truck, and trailer just in case.

Thanks,

Rob

[Rob]

With tuned up brakes, tires, sandblast and paint it will be brandy-spanky new when you are done.

Self contained is really nice so any tractor can be put into service.

Doesn't make any difference since you have paperwork, but the trailer has a "Boone" look to it. Sold quite a few in the NE area. I had a 1962 Boone gooseneck and new owner still is using it and there are several others working that I see from time to time. One is a little shorter than yours on air.

Boone had hard times and was only making full trailers for garbage container service for WM and BFI. About the middle 80's, they were done.

This one has "Standard Forge" 22,500 axles on Hutchens 9700 spring ride. I've only pulled it empty and it does pull straight. Apparently it was aligned good when built as I'm pretty certain it's not seen much maintenance since. The trailer to me has a "home built" type look to it, but is very strong. The crossmembers are spaced for planks on the treadways, but this one has 3/16ths steel treadplate with 2X2 angle stood up for spacing. Some of the plate is thinning from rust, and a couple have small holes, so it will most likely be replaced.

Rob

[Frmconcrete09]

I love seeing things done correctly .... But also makes me mad at the fools that half ass shit ... If only we could learn em all ...

[Green Dash]

I then jumped on the mower and promptly mowed down some of "Momma's" flowers in here flower garden. Guess I should prolly tell her about they eh?

Rob

Be sure to remove the jar from the mantle before doing so. She took them once and can take them again.

Is this the type of jar you use?

[Rob]

Be sure to remove the jar from the mantle before doing so. She took them once and can take them again.

Is this the type of jar you use?

Yup except the red tint from the bloody amputation is long gone from UV exposure.

Rob

[Rob]

Dropped all the stuff off this morning and picked the drums, and seals up after work. The drums cleaned up with .040 cut out. Still plenty of meat left. The shoes are sent off to Bridgeview, (near Chicago) for relining and I should have them back on Thursday. The new hardware and cam bushing kits will be here on Thursday also. Should be able to have it back together mid first week of June as we will be gone for the holiday.

They turned the drums for free.

Rob

[Rob]

Got to looking at the races and bearings last night and a couple on one wheel were questionable. Keeping with Rob tradition, I picked up all new bearings, and races as I figger they all must wear evenly. Also picked up new "Stemco" hubcaps, curved arm slack adjusters, clevises, pins, and 15 of the needed wedge retainer studs and 20 nuts. The other nine studs, and four nuts will be in tomorrow. The wedges looked good and do not require replacement. The "S" cams barely show any wear at all so they will also be reused with new hardware, and bushings.

After staring down the neck of this thing tonight, I have decided to not cut it off and completely rebuild. I'm going to take the center web sections out of the "I" beam structure of the neck that is weak, have 1/4" plate sheared to the correct size, then will weld these plates into the beams. I shouldn't need to do any alignment this way as the neck will still retain enough support it shouldn't sag.

I did find on each side of the neck where a plate was riveted years ago. Maybe "Boone" trailers used an aluminum plate that was retained by rivets? The pattern looks to be about the same size as some Fontaine trailers I've seen in the past.

Rob

[Rob]

The Boone I had used a cast aluminum oval plate that was 6-7 inches long. Being a 1962, it used screws to attach to the trailer before everyone was paranoid about VIN tags.

The casting showed a raised outline of a single axle fixed gooseneck trailer and below was the model number and then serial number. It was mounted on the driver's side on the neck and show as a silver dot in the picture. Best picture I have of it.

Jim

Good looking outfit. Bet you miss that one. The rivets on this one held a rectangular part for certain. There are four rivets about three inches apart on the top and bottom. The top to bottom spacing is about three inches also.

Rob

[slpwlker]

Hey Rob. Not set in stone yet but might be that way for the long weekend. I'll know more after I get loaded and get moving. If you need any help I'll swing by. Let me see what happens.

[Rob]

Hey Rob. Not set in stone yet but might be that way for the long weekend. I'll know more after I get loaded and get moving. If you need any help I'll swing by. Let me see what happens.

Hi Randy, I am doing the family thing this long weekend so won't really be around after Thursday night. We are leaving early Friday morning and won't be back unti Monday evening.

Sorry to miss you.

Rob

[slpwlker]

Not a proble. If I was home we would be doing the family thing to. Just gonna hole up in a motel for the weekend or try to.

[Rob]

Not a proble. If I was home we would be doing the family thing to. Just gonna hole up in a motel for the weekend or try to.

I'll be about 130 miles south of Morton. My uncle and I are going to attempt to get his old lowboy 4200 IH going so I can get it home to the shop. Wanting to take "Yella Dog", (truck you drove) apart to install engine/trans into the white B61 in the shop. The IH will be my new yard jockey.

Rob

[slpwlker]

I'll be about 130 miles south of Morton. My uncle and I are going to attempt to get his old lowboy 4200 IH going so I can get it home to the shop. Wanting to take "Yella Dog", (truck you drove) apart to install engine/trans into the white B61 in the shop. The IH will be my new yard jockey.

Rob

that would be a good deal. That ole Yella thing ws a damn good runner. Shouldn't have any problems with the binder

[Rob]

Started putting things back together after work this afternoon. Built up the rollers for the shoes, pressed in two of four cam bearings, inner and outer seals, and cleaned up the pivot pin bores, all on one axle. I chucked a stiff wire round pipe, or bore brush into a drill after cutting the handle off. This wore the brush out quickly so need to grab another at the hardware store. After polishing the bearing surfaces of the cams, they are near perfect and within .0005 of being round so no appreciable wear to be concerned with. I also had the machine shop press new races into two hubs due to the bearings being marginal for reuse in my opinion. Was even able to get Timken bearings and races that were made in U.S.A. of all places.

Hope to have most everything as far as brake hardware installed tomorrow afternoon. Should be able to get the brakes built up in the next couple of days so can move the trailer back outside. Want to finish up the mechanical end of this thing by end of week, and next week's project will be restoring the structural integrity of the neck.

The fun continues.

Rob

[leversole]

Pics?

[Rob]

Pics?

I'll snap a few tomorrow. "Momma" had my camera with her tonight.

Rob

[Rob]

Well shit, had to buy a brake drum. Plenty of "meat" in it yet but it's cracked. I found it with a "hammer" test. Dead giveaway with a "thud" rather than a ring. Oh well, $212.00 for a damned brake drum!! While there I decided I'm so far into this project so might as well install new races and bearings into the other wheels as I'll keep it. A little over $1100.00 later, I have all new wheel bearings, races, seals, hubcaps, synthetic hub oil, brake chamber clevises, and the new drum. I'm going broke fixing my own garbage cause there's no money in it.

Tonight I started into the neck of the trailer. After formulating a plan of attack last evening, I took to slicing the rusted structural steel out first on the headboard, then moving into the main frame rails. Tomorrow I will pick up the steel beams that will be replacements. This is 14" by 26 pounds per ft. of beam, and the three crossmembers are 4X6 "jr" beam. I had them shear, brake, and bore a 5th wheel plate from 3/8th's plate today also. I have the new king pin already. Guess I better work on my welding skills in order.......

One minor setback. I was torching out the front headboard panel and it fell from the trailer onto the plywood I'd placed for this purpose earlier. However, the piece of steel, (about 35 pounds) fell at an angle, bounced, and severed my oxygen line on the torch set as it landed. Thankful it was not the acetylene line or there could have been a serious fire as the torch was still burning in my hands. I always have a new, spare set of hoses so they were changed out. The former was about 25 years old and probably needed replaced anyway.

No camera so no photos. Maybe tomorrow.

Rob

[Rob]

Getting a little done on the neck today. Had a lot of rust in the beams and crossmembers thanks to nearly six inches of mud residing under the wood deck in the boxed areas and fifth wheel plate.

Here are some initial photos of what I'm working with and initial cut(s):

New fifth wheel plate I had sheared, bent, and bored for an 18" pin setting allowing an 84 inch swing clearance. Also new king pin to be welded in:

New steel beams for the main frame, and forward three crossmembers. I'm sectioning in 78" of new main frame beams,

Shots with the pin box and main beams removed. Notice the "dogleg" in the lower main beam. This moves the "shear plane" from the welding to more than one spot:

And the pin box and most of the main beams remnants. It WAS a mess but should be sound when finished. The closing piece of channel across the front of the trailer is not shown and I need to modify it for tapers at both ends. Tomorrow I finish grind for fitment and possibly have most "jigged" into position for final install.

Guess I should teach myself to weld. Seems like I'm gonna need it.

So, what did you do for "fun" today? Besides this, I mowed and acre and a half too.

Rob

[leversole]

You were a busy beaver today! Thanks for the pics!

[Rob]

This trailer will receive the air over hydraulic landing gear Trent grabbed from Thad for me while out east. Got a couple of debts to pay back for those services.

Rob

[MidniteMechanic]

Rob,

If you've never replaced a kingpin just note that it only gets welded on the top flange not on the shank.

[Rob]

Rob,

If you've never replaced a kingpin just note that it only gets welded on the top flange not on the shank.

HI there and thanks. I've never done one myself but had asked that question when I purchased the replacement. That pin fits through the holes with about .030 clearance and they did a good job making the plate.

On another note: I took the fifth wheel apart that we were speaking of last winter that would not release. It was rusty, and rock hard grease on most everything that moved. I threw all the parts into the parts washer basket, degreased them, then reassembled and greased well and it works great. Thanks again for the help that got me started. I'll prolly have to take it back apart and install jaws but want to pull the trailer with a new pin first. The old pin is almost 1/4" down in diameter where the jaws grab it.

I did take the remainder of the top beam rails off this morning, and the xmember stubs. I'm finding out my build tolerances are/were tighter than the manufacturers so I've had to compensate in my drawings. Planning to have this rolling early in the week as I need the paint room which this is blocking. Should get the hub/drums back from the blaster tomorrow and will finish the brakes up then.

Rob

[MidniteMechanic]

Glad to help. $212 for a drum sounds a little steep. Yes usually close enough is good enough in production. You will go nuts trying to match 'precision' to it.

[Rob]

Glad to help. $212 for a drum sounds a little steep. Yes usually close enough is good enough in production. You will go nuts trying to match 'precision' to it.

I did to. It is a 3174 Gunite drum and believe it or not still made in USA. I didn't want a chinese drum that could have been had in two weeks for $178.49. This one was on the shelf. Those little drums don't cost any less...........

Rob