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I've been a member for awhile but first post here. Brief history...been a driver for 17 years and an owner op for 13. I've owned 4 trucks. 1996 w9, 2001 379, 2006 379, and finally 2007 387. My personal PU truck is an old ford, 1976. I have an old motorcycle, 1971. Here's the question. Can an old B model do the same work I do now?

I'm not looking for the short answer. I know that the trucks 50 years ago hauled much the same loads and they got where they were going. I'm more interested in the DOT regs, brakes, HP and torque, hill climbing, emission laws and etc. I've been brainwashed by the industry thinking that we need new trucks and I obeyed and bought a newer one each time. But truth be told if I had my first truck again, the W9 I would still be working it today.

I see a few old B Macks in CO, MT, and NV working occasionally and I recall a few years ago parking next to an Autocar and an LTL also. I could be mistaken but they seemed to be working and not on the way to a show. So I want to know what would be the problem in working a B model these days. I don't care at all about leasing it on with someone so no stupid excuses there. Can it be done?

Thanks

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If the truck is set up correctly it can be worked.I've hauled with a few B's a friend owns and love driving them.To me they're much easier to maintain than newer more complicated trucks.I plan to have my C model working later this year.

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Dragging 50-60K lbs around with under 200hp would make for a very slow day. I know there are plenty of guys that have repowered old iron and run them today.

I can't see a problem with it as long as everything is tight and functional.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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I've been a member for awhile but first post here. Brief history...been a driver for 17 years and an owner op for 13. I've owned 4 trucks. 1996 w9, 2001 379, 2006 379, and finally 2007 387. My personal PU truck is an old ford, 1976. I have an old motorcycle, 1971. Here's the question. Can an old B model do the same work I do now?

I'm not looking for the short answer. I know that the trucks 50 years ago hauled much the same loads and they got where they were going. I'm more interested in the DOT regs, brakes, HP and torque, hill climbing, emission laws and etc. I've been brainwashed by the industry thinking that we need new trucks and I obeyed and bought a newer one each time. But truth be told if I had my first truck again, the W9 I would still be working it today.

I see a few old B Macks in CO, MT, and NV working occasionally and I recall a few years ago parking next to an Autocar and an LTL also. I could be mistaken but they seemed to be working and not on the way to a show. So I want to know what would be the problem in working a B model these days. I don't care at all about leasing it on with someone so no stupid excuses there. Can it be done?

Thanks

I run my 1989 R6 with a 350-juiced and a T-2090 up & back to Pa when we are smooked! and at the end of the day it did the same job as the large car's @ about 6 or more mpg and no computer

BULLHUSK

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I would recomend a B75 with a sleeper and a NTC-400 Big Cam Cummins or N14 Cummins for making a living with. I would say Detroit Diesel all the way, but a Cummins would use half the fuel. Fuel prices are definately a concern nowdays. Maybe a more modern driveline and suspension would help too. But it definately be done.

Ben

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Loyal, yes.

But, it must meet the standards of the truck at the time it was built. You will be doing it slower, but it was always done before, and the roads have only gotten better since the B was built. You wont do it very long in CA though, thanks to carb. Make sure every thing is 'healthy' before you attempt it, and stay the hell out of CA(everyone should anyway).

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Now with that said... most all companies wont insure a working truck that old. My suggestion would be, get a much newer powered frame, to put the old B cab n hood on. Find a wrecked or cheap 80s-90s truck, strip its body, and replace it with the Bs. Make it look as much as possible like an original. Parts will be easier to find on the road, and it will be a 'newer' truck to insure/etc.. more power, and can handle todays higher weights.

A couple things that never cease to amaze me lately....

1. why anyone, including californians, would stand for carb's crap. 30 head people, telling millions what they will no longer do with theiur life and property. Just say no, and boycott that place. about 3 days should do it.

2. why would anyone, who has owned an older truck(not a falling apart rust bucket), that has maintained it, and knows its parts are good,, would spend 180k+ on a new truck, with a crap engine, that the dont like anything about. just upgrade the engine to meet the newer specs for what,,30-50k?,, and keep all the other stuff you like, and know works. seems like thats about 100k+ savings,, assuming your other one is most likely paid for. we know what todays warranties are worth, and most newer trucks look like crap and are plastic.. payments have to be cheaper on 30k than 180k..

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Now with that said... most all companies wont insure a working truck that old. My suggestion would be, get a much newer powered frame, to put the old B cab n hood on. Find a wrecked or cheap 80s-90s truck, strip its body, and replace it with the Bs. Make it look as much as possible like an original. Parts will be easier to find on the road, and it will be a 'newer' truck to insure/etc.. more power, and can handle todays higher weights. A couple things that never cease to amaze me lately.... 1. why anyone, including californians, would stand for carb's crap. 30 head people, telling millions what they will no longer do with theiur life and property. Just say no, and boycott that place. about 3 days should do it. 2. why would anyone, who has owned an older truck(not a falling apart rust bucket), that has maintained it, and knows its parts are good,, would spend 180k+ on a new truck, with a crap engine, that the dont like anything about. just upgrade the engine to meet the newer specs for what,,30-50k?,, and keep all the other stuff you like, and know works. seems like thats about 100k+ savings,, assuming your other one is most likely paid for. we know what todays warranties are worth, and most newer trucks look like crap and are plastic.. payments have to be cheaper on 30k than 180k..

In San-Fran.Ca. You can walk the streets naked!! legal!! And I am not makein that up!! ..................But don't you come into Ca with an older truck!!! DON'T YOU EVER!!! It seems very clear to me that the patiences are running the asylum in Ca.??...no?

BULLHUSK..PS I wrote this post with all of my clothes on

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wouldnt even concider it,,,we,d all like to drive cool old trucks,,but thier way too slow,and too hard to find parts,first time you burn a wheel bearing,,,youll be sitting for a week or so,,besides most decent good paying jobs,,want 5 years or newer equipment...i used to run a 180 themodyne up the grapevine,,,back in the 80,s,,and sometimes your down to 10 miles an hour with a good load,,,everyone blowing your doors off,,,,no fun at all,,,cant even stop for coffee,,,cause your truck is so slow,,,you havent got time,,,gotta keep on moving...you need at least a 400...with a stock b model,,,you would be ready to shoot yourself,,,after one night ...forget it,,and look for something up to date...good luck,,bob

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My buddy built a truck that seems to work pretty well. Its a B75 body on a 1998(I think) Mack CH chassis. It's got like a 7 foot sleeper with a shower and fireplace and everything. He uses it to haul all his other toys all over the place and he loves it. I think a setup like that would be the way to go.

Ben

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I think you could run an old truck like that but a lot of preplanning (i.e. pre-bought spare parts to bring along) would be in order. As long as you realize you will be far from the fastest or heaviest I think you would be ok. I have thought about putting my B to work part time hauling either gravel or water for the wind tower projects or all the oil drillin' going on. DRILL BABY DRILL!!!

The problems we face today exist because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by the people who vote for a living.

The government can only "give" someone what they first take from another.

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I run all older trucks and equipment. The newest Mack is an '80 the oldest is a '69, my road truck is a Marmon. They all are maintained as close to new as possible. No leaks, no missing or damaged parts, good rubber and glass and are all kept shiny and clean. That said, I'm now losing jobs because of their ages and it is now a battle to keep them insured because of their age. My slant, want an old looking unit, put an old body on a new chassis. Just my opinion. Paul

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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:SMOKIE-RT:

I'm speaking strictly from the sidelines,but I think it's doable,IF you start with all the consumables in excellent condition and your truck 100% legal and up for any safety inspections that might be required,and IF you keep your business dealings a little "informal"(Not looking for contracts where they sign you up then "modify" their requirements),and IF you're a little more selective on what jobs you want to do (Try to stay clear of high profile jobs,and those with tight deadlines or very long distances.). It seems like short hauls,out of the traffic stream destinations and less than desirable loads would probably keep you busy,and if a shipper can't easily get someone to haul from his location or deliver to a location,he probably won't quibble about an older rig with the owner/operator willing to make the run. As I said though,you'd have to be selective,think it through first and make sure you can make it pay to go there.

I know you probably want to keep your truck relatively original-I sure would,so the cab swap wouldn't work well for you,though it might get you more power and easier to find parts should you need them.

Again,this just my opinion. :whistling:

Speed

:SMOKIE-LFT:

"Remember-ANY Gun Control is Unconstitutional!"
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  • 2 weeks later...

I ran a 1960 mack H-67 in the early eighties,it had the origional 673 thermodyne engine, with blower,205 hp,and a 9 speed 2 stick overdrive tran. it did ok up i-95, held about 55-60 mph. pulling about 45-48000lbs. and i had a 28 inch sleeper. i loved the truck and ave. about 7 mpg. b ut you would be better of to put a newer engine in it, cause they are very slow on the big hills.

I know also that the big engines wont fit most of them. but the cat -c13 would and you can go to 470 hp even some had 525hp. they are smaller than a big cam 400 cummins! or a 11 ltr. cummens would fit.

i know a guy who put a 300 maxadyne in his b-61,he had a time but got it working an ean it for a long time in chas. sc.

I wish i still had my h-model,i would run it today.

Just rebuild an update your mack an make it with more modern parts an you will do very well.I have been there with 39 years in trucking,and i also ran 3 b-61's to fla and back from sc, hauling watermellons.

Good luck and keep us posted. my email is white3000@yahoo.com(for the old white trucks,LOL

Edited by windwalker
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