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Well, i finally bit the bullet and took my truck into midwest fuel injection at bolingbrook today to get the pump rebuilt. i should hear by the end of today what was wrong with it and what it needs. i hope to see a big improvement in how quick the boost builds, throttle response, quicker start up, better fuel economy etc.

The pump is off of a e7 350 mechanical so im guessing when i get it back if they turn it up 7 to 10 percent i should be happy :)

Slow and Steady Wins the Race!

I have a 350 4V that needs the governor and pump gone thru...a guy has one locally off a good runner and guarantees it for $500.... I dont know if im going to go with that or drop my pump off and have it gone thru...we have a good local shop that I see pumps come in from all over the country.. Mountaineer Diesel. Kind of scared to hear them tell me the price to rebuild...

So they finally called back and said that the delivery valves were bad and the governors or governor was bad and it s just basically all being rebuilt. They are turning it up about 5 percent so i hope that will be enjoyable enough. So do you think the reason a cylinder was always running colder than the others is a delivery valve? i dont know all the parts that are involved in building a pump so im curious to hear from an expert

Slow and Steady Wins the Race!

I have a 350 4V that needs the governor and pump gone thru...a guy has one locally off a good runner and guarantees it for $500.... I dont know if im going to go with that or drop my pump off and have it gone thru...we have a good local shop that I see pumps come in from all over the country.. Mountaineer Diesel. Kind of scared to hear them tell me the price to rebuild...

well last one i bought was 27 years ago,,,it was $1,400.rebuilt..so good luck...bob

Yes but they are only allowed to go within the spec to keep it long lasting. That should be good enough. you have to watch for the drivetrain too. Keep in mind, it never ran good before all this so when its done it should be even better. i would like 10-15 percent too but i dont really know how to safely achieve it without wasting a ton of fuel either

Slow and Steady Wins the Race!

if you turn the stock pump all the way up you would be pulling wheelies. thats what our sled pull truck has done and the throttel is like a light switch. if its a working truck bump it up 20-25% and call it a day. you will have a notice of power increase.

The problem is that i cant just turn it up like that. it can only be turned up when its not on the truck and adjusted that way. Not sure how long it would last after i turned it up that much. believe me i would like more power but i also know in order to keep everything safe and running pristine, 5 percent again is good enough. the truck was'nt even running right before and it kept right up with my dads pete with a 3406b engine at 360 horse but he does he a 3.9 ratio and i have 4.42 so i would imagine now i would be faster than him off the line right? and im also concerned with fuel economy. I thought that i could go as high as 15 percent and be fine and the turbo would spool more and everything but i was talked out of it:(

Slow and Steady Wins the Race!

Just got some feedback from the pump shop, He said there was some major things wrong that needed to be addressed and fixed :) Delivery valves, governor and some sort of plate or bushing kit lol. Anyways, he said that they are only allowed to put the pump on the high end of spec because thats the law. So i then asked how do i ever turn it up more if i ever want to then because this is pretty much the only time im going to able to i thought. He said its a P style pump and there are some shops out there that can do that for me. sounds good right?

Slow and Steady Wins the Race!

When I had my RS700L on the road working I bumped up the pump so that it pushed about 28PSI in summertime warm weather. If I recall I turned the nut to adjust fuel about 2-3 turns and locked it back down. it reaches about 30psi in the right cold weather. I was getting about 5.2 - 5.4MPG running chicagoland. she smoked a little more betwee shifts and I have the pufflimiter operated from a dash switch. EGTs get a little warm on a good pull if its falling below 1400RPM. I think +25% is a little hot but if you are driving the truck and watch the gauges you will do fine. Many shops wont do that much and give you a warranty on it tho....

I would think with the pump rebuilt it should be fine. My EM-7 electronic has a million miles on it and i have never had the motor apart or the pump off. It does everything i need it to do. It doesnt like hills, but I am from Illinois so that is not as problem. MPG with a hopper or a flat is 5.5 to 6.5, short dump 4.5 to 5.5. -Brad

Stork are you saying with the pump rebuilt and turned up 20 percent it will be fine as far as being reliable or are you saying that just having the pump rebuilt i will be happy enough with the outcome? i think you are meaning that a rebuilt stock pump will be just fine which i kinda agree on because the stock one running with a misfire was fine too.

Slow and Steady Wins the Race!

Stork are you saying with the pump rebuilt and turned up 20 percent it will be fine as far as being reliable or are you saying that just having the pump rebuilt i will be happy enough with the outcome? i think you are meaning that a rebuilt stock pump will be just fine which i kinda agree on because the stock one running with a misfire was fine too.

That is exactly what I meant, stock rebuild is good. I have had 3 different Macks since the year 2000. All of them had alot of "experience" and were 300's. Some day I am going one that is a lil bit fresher and watch out. -Brad

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yeah i here what you are saying. 427s arent a whole lot faster than me and my dads 18 spd 3406b pete with 370 horse and 3.90 rears are pretty close and thats with me already having a misfire. so i agree that just having it rebuilt will be a big improvement. maybe i will be just as fast or close to some 427s that have 4.17 rears now. (crosses fingers) Thanks for keeping this topic alive too guys :)

Slow and Steady Wins the Race!

With my pump turned up I could walk a friends 427 up to about the top of 3rd. Hold the lead thru 4th and only when I grabbed 5th could he get around me. It just don't have the balls to keep up in 5th but were talking a 1977 diesel vs a 2001. Not bad for the old dog...

So i got the truck back today. i havent hauled anything yet so i dont know how much more power it could have. When i bobtailed there tho it was only doing 25 psi and on the way home it was doing 28psi. If you mash the throttle from a low rpm it does let out a tiny bit of black smoke like i wanted but nothing compared to my old r with a 300 and a puff limiter removed hehe. It does feel more responsive and doesnt have a shake to it anymore and just seems healthier is all i can say. Its basically running the way it should now but wont beat a new mack titan or anything like that ;)

Slow and Steady Wins the Race!

Yeah i hear ya. this is an E7 engine and they make peak torque at 1250 and max hp at 1800. it makes full boost around 1400rpm. I am going to check it tomorrow though.

Slow and Steady Wins the Race!

So here is what i noticed today. It seems faster up hills. I don't think i've seen any increase in boost at all though. I just notice that it has more power from a dead stop than before. Full boost comes on at 1400 rpm

It shows 25-27psi at 1400. i have no idea what it really is because the gauge is so sensitive or i need to fix the orifice fitting or get one of those things called a snubber so the gauge doesnt flutter so much.

I honestly don't know why i havent seen over 30 psi. it was doing the same boost amount before i took it in but it feels healthier and quicker to me and blows a little smoke now so i don't know what to think.

The specs for the truck are to get anywhere from 24-32psi so i guess i shouldnt complain. There is a hill i normally go up for a certain job and by the time i take off at a stoplight and go up the hill i would be at

37mph and drop down to 35 and now i get to 40 and drop down to 37 so there is my only proof of improvement. I was working with a 427 all day and we seemed about the same depending on who got stuck at a light.

does anyone know why the boost gauge would keep fluttering though? I took a video of it too if anyone (lmackattack) can tell me how to post it i would be happy to share it.

Slow and Steady Wins the Race!

My boost gauge flutters as well and have not figured out why. It's a auto meter gauge and when I first installed it it was pretty steady. Now it flutters +/- 5 psi. I was thinking it might be because of where it's tapped into? It's tapped into the far end of the manafold and possible that when the intake valve on that cyl opens the pressure drops and then builds when it closes again...repete ....and you get the point. Not sure and haven't looked into it much...to post a vid get a u tube account,upload it and then link ( copy&past the url) the video here

I think i know why it does the flutter now. The line is too short and its right next to the intake manifold where pulses and vibrations occur giving it an inaccurate reading. I am going to lenthen the hose first and see if it takes care of the problem and if it does not, then i will just have to drill and tap into one of the intercooler lines. How does this sound?

Slow and Steady Wins the Race!

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