Now the batteries crapped out

[fdnymackcf]

IIRC, the batteries I have are 8D-4HD. Anyone know where I can get a good price on them?

[farmer52]

Where are you located? No location in your profile!

[fdnymackcf]

Where are you located? No location in your profile!

Sorry, Long Island New York.

[fxfymn]

Do you keep a battery maintainer, such as the brand "batteryminder" on it? If not, you may want to try putting one on before you buy new batteries. These types of chargers will desulfate and re-condition wet cell batteries which may save your present batteries. It is a long shot, but since you should be keeping the conditioner on it anyways, you might as well spend the $50.00 or so and try it.

Price wise, just call around. Sometimes NAPA is good, sometimes Federated, etc.

[fdnymackcf]

Do you keep a battery maintainer, such as the brand "batteryminder" on it? If not, you may want to try putting one on before you buy new batteries. These types of chargers will desulfate and re-condition wet cell batteries which may save your present batteries. It is a long shot, but since you should be keeping the conditioner on it anyways, you might as well spend the $50.00 or so and try it.

Price wise, just call around. Sometimes NAPA is good, sometimes Federated, etc.

Well, it was suggested to trickle charge both battteries over a 4 day span (2 days each). Put them in, and let it run. Odd thing was, one battery held a charge for a while, chargicator was 100%+ and rig still would not turn over. Was told one battery with 1400 cca should have did it.

[fxfymn]

A trickle charger is not the same as the battery maintainer. The electronics in the maintainer measure the battery and have a means to desulfate the batteries as well.

I assume you checked all of the connections for corrosion and tightness. A quick seat of the pants check is to turn the headlights on and see how long they stay bright. If they dim in a minute or two the batteries are not holding the charge, even though they may measure a high enough voltage with a meter.

The last quick check is to jump it. If it starts off of another battery than you need to replace the existing batteries.

When you replace the batteries make sure they are securly fastened down. One of the leading causes of battery failure is allowing them to bounce around.

[41chevy]

You can check each cell with an old fashioned Hyrometer (looks like an Anti Freeze tester with 5 balls) it will give you the cell condition before and after a charge. A reqular auto parts store should carry an inexpensive one. That shows a weak,a good or bad cell

Battery wise NAPA Stores on Long Island seem to be disappearing and a 8D-1400 battery cost me $257 and went bad in 7 months. I had to hump a 150 pound battery from Shirley to Huntington only to find the warranty wasn't going to be honored. Interstate 8D was $233 and Auto Zone was $189 each Delphi was $201.

I have a battery maintainer for them and so far the Auto Zone batteries are working o.k. Paul

[fdnymackcf]

You can check each cell with an old fashioned Hyrometer (looks like an Anti Freeze tester with 5 balls) it will give you the cell condition before and after a charge. A reqular auto parts store should carry an inexpensive one. That shows a weak,a good or bad cell

Battery wise NAPA Stores on Long Island seem to be disappearing and a 8D-1400 battery cost me $257 and went bad in 7 months. I had to hump a 150 pound battery from Shirley to Huntington only to find the warranty wasn't going to be honored. Interstate 8D was $233 and Auto Zone was $189 each Delphi was $201.

I have a battery maintainer for them and so far the Auto Zone batteries are working o.k. Paul

Thanks, Paul. Hows your diesel and bodywork skills? lolol

[41chevy]

I'll do fabrication and repair, but not full paint any more..It wears me out to much.. general diesel ok any heavy stuff I call my cousin down from Hunter. (I'm lazy now)

[fdnymackcf]

I'll do fabrication and repair, but not full paint any more..It wears me out to much.. general diesel ok any heavy stuff I call my cousin down from Hunter. (I'm lazy now)

Ahhhhh, I have paint covered. Heavy stuff I agree. Working on an arrangement for a vocational school in PA. However, if it doesnt work out and your tools are portable...... lol. $ee what work$ out. Time doe$n't help either.

And a Happy New Year to you and yours.

[1958 F.W.D.]

Dont skimp on batteries- go with a name brand, I have a set of DEKA's in my '58 FWD that are now on their 10th year- but thats with regular preventive maintenance and excercise even in the winter months.

Just from what I read and hear on the internet, batteries and tires are the two biggest things antique truck owners neglect for preventive maintenance.

[fdnymackcf]

Dont skimp on batteries- go with a name brand, I have a set of DEKA's in my '58 FWD that are now on their 10th year- but thats with regular preventive maintenance and excercise even in the winter months. Just from what I read and hear on the internet, batteries and tires are the two biggest things antique truck owners neglect for preventive maintenance.

Along with no place to put it. Next new set, I'll D/C them too. I'm told of an Interstate Battery outlet near me. Sort of like the Hostess thrift store, but for batteries and a big discount. I'll see how that pans out.

Thanks for the tips. See ya on firepics.

Stay safe, Brother.

[fdnymackcf]

I'll do fabrication and repair, but not full paint any more..It wears me out to much.. general diesel ok any heavy stuff I call my cousin down from Hunter. (I'm lazy now)

Well, I still may need your help on the bodywork, paints covered....lolol. Anyway, busy as Hell and finally got the trickle charger on the battery. Got the hydrometer (thanks) and on each battery I had 2 cells in the recharge range. I know what the answer may be, so please forgive me for a stupid question. With the charger on 2 amps, the meter was reading between 75-100% the minute it was put on the battery, am I correct in thinking that is the % charged? I would think so. So even with approx. 25% to charge, 2 amps should not overheat the battery being the size that it is. I was told 2 days to charge it, but I am thinking that would be if it was dead?

Again, forgive me for the dumb questions, I love cars and trucks but cant fix them. Thanks again.

[1958 F.W.D.]

Well, I still may need your help on the bodywork, paints covered....lolol. Anyway, busy as Hell and finally got the trickle charger on the battery. Got the hydrometer (thanks) and on each battery I had 2 cells in the recharge range.

Dont forget to check the fluid levels in the batteries if they are not sealed cells. Only add de-ionized water (pharmacy.) And always remember to ventilate when charging!!!!

[fdnymackcf]

2 cells read recharge after a long trickle charge. Other battery on trickle now. Will pick up at least one new battery tomorrow. And I read them wrong. 8D MHD. Interstate has them online 188 each

Thanks for the help.

[609albert]

after you get the batteries going ,you might want to look into a 'BATTERY TENDER' to maintane the batteries ,they have several kinds

check out their website, I'm planning on connecting one on my LS85 ( www.batterytender.com)

[farmer52]

after you get the batteries going ,you might want to look into a 'BATTERY TENDER' to maintane the batteries ,they have several kinds

check out their website, I'm planning on connecting one on my LS85 ( www.batterytender.com)

I use Sears Diehard 2A battery maintainers on all my vehicles (tractors, trucks, etc.) that sit alot. You can get them on sale for around $20. Wally World also sells battery maintainers (1.5A) for about $17. I use a Battery Tender Jr on my bike (came with the bike).

[fdnymackcf]

I use Sears Diehard 2A battery maintainers on all my vehicles (tractors, trucks, etc.) that sit alot. You can get them on sale for around $20. Wally World also sells battery maintainers (1.5A) for about $17. I use a Battery Tender Jr on my bike (came with the bike).

As usual, you guys are tops. I got in return for some services a FREE Interstate 8D-MHD battery. Connected it, second try started right up. Ran good for about 10 minutes (even for being started once in over a year), but then idled rough, white smoke out of the stack, then stalled. Would not crank over even spraying WD-40 down the air intake. Leaning towards air leak.... suggestions?

Thanks again. I'm HOPING the arranngements I am making with a vocational school in Pa to do the body work comes through (though i know 41 Chevy can do it.....lolol). However, I would like to have it mechanically sound to drive it on the lowboy. Some posts on repair and restorations, you guys make it look so easy, but not my talent as much as I wish I could. So is it now an air leak?

[1958 F.W.D.]

As usual, you guys are tops. I got in return for some services a FREE Interstate 8D-MHD battery. Connected it, second try started right up. Ran good for about 10 minutes (even for being started once in over a year), but then idled rough, white smoke out of the stack, then stalled. Would not crank over even spraying WD-40 down the air intake. Leaning towards air leak.... suggestions?

I hate to do this to you but the white smoke does not sound good. Almost sounds to me like you may have blown a head gasket and you have a hydraulic lock-up going on somewhere. Pull your dipstick and see if you can see water or foam on it- thats NFG. Open your radiator cap and see what the coolant looks like- if it looks foamy, creamy, really brownish...thats NFG.

FDNY used off-the-shelf Mack engines, END611's, 673's, 250 or 260HP. They weren't Maxidynes and they weren't Econodynes.

[fdnymackcf]

I hate to do this to you but the white smoke does not sound good. Almost sounds to me like you may have blown a head gasket and you have a hydraulic lock-up going on somewhere. Pull your dipstick and see if you can see water or foam on it- thats NFG. Open your radiator cap and see what the coolant looks like- if it looks foamy, creamy, really brownish...thats NFG.

FDNY used off-the-shelf Mack engines, END611's, 673's, 250 or 260HP. They weren't Maxidynes and they weren't Econodynes.

Thanks, Brother. I do hope you are wrong, but only for my sake..lolol. I have talked to an FDNY mechanic and my buddy who works on almost anything and everything. Varies from replacing all fuel filters to an air leak in fuel, to possibly losing prime. My request to have a vocational school do the body work struck out again. Trying one or 2 more places and hope I strike gold. But I would like the rig running good mechanically so it wont be a burden on the school... You're on deck, Paul..........lolol

[41chevy]

Sounds like a head gasket went wit the rough idle and white smoke. Most Anti Freeze "smoke" has a sweetish smell to it also. An air leak wouldn't stop it from turning over but Hydro lock sure would. Follow FWD's suggestions.

Best hurry up I'm going into my 60's this month

[1958 F.W.D.]

Thanks, Brother. I do hope you are wrong, but only for my sake..lolol. I have talked to an FDNY mechanic and my buddy who works on almost anything and everything. Varies from replacing all fuel filters to an air leak in fuel, to possibly losing prime. My request to have a vocational school do the body work struck out again. Trying one or 2 more places and hope I strike gold. But I would like the rig running good mechanically so it wont be a burden on the school... You're on deck, Paul..........lolol

I certainly hope that I am wrong too....but.....were it a fuel problem, I dont think you would have had the rough idling and then the puff of white smoke and no more go go, although its not unheard of. But the white smoke is suspicious. Another suggestion- wipe your finger in the end of the exhaust and sniff...(the truck, not your bunghole....) do you smell that sweet/sour smell like coolant/anti-freeze?? If you do, dat aint good. Where is your rig located, I might be able to take a ride and diagnose for you if necessary.

[fdnymackcf]

I certainly hope that I am wrong too....but.....were it a fuel problem, I dont think you would have had the rough idling and then the puff of white smoke and no more go go, although its not unheard of. But the white smoke is suspicious. Another suggestion- wipe your finger in the end of the exhaust and sniff...(the truck, not your bunghole....) do you smell that sweet/sour smell like coolant/anti-freeze?? If you do, dat aint good. Where is your rig located, I might be able to take a ride and diagnose for you if necessary.

I'll check that tomorrow, thanks. My pal is going to bring a few filters and a pressure fitting or something like that to cover the gas cap and I would assume (Yes,I know) it will push the fuel up ( I was only paying half attention to what he was saying as I was driving). If I cannot get the bodywork done, I may either sell or scrap it. I would much rather not, but I have no time, tools or talent to do it. I was recommended to a big diesel/collision tech school in Cleveland, Ohio from the school outside Pittsburgh. Seems PA Dept of Ed. removed rust removal from its curriculum. Many thanks for the offer, but it's on Long Island, NY. in western Suffolk. Unless you have a weekend to kill (I'll pick up the hotel bill..) it may be kind of far.

[41chevy]

Wilson Tech teaches Auto body repair and restoration. They are part of Western Suffolk Boces. I think they are in Deerpark.

Career and Technical Education
Kenneth R. Burr, Executive Director
(631) 425-9050 ext.260

kburr@wsboces.org

Nancy Kelsey
Assistant Director

nkelsey@wsboces.org
(631) 425-9050

[fdnymackcf]

Wilson Tech teaches Auto body repair and restoration. They are part of Western Suffolk Boces. I think they are in Deerpark.

Career and Technical Education

Kenneth R. Burr, Executive Director

(631) 425-9050 ext.260

kburr@wsboces.org

Nancy Kelsey

Assistant Director

nkelsey@wsboces.org

(631) 425-9050

Thanks, Paul. But the vehicle must be registered and driveable. And I think its too big for them. A guy from my VW club restored a car there. Would love to do it there ... Thanks again.