B873SX Rebuild Update

[thomastractorsvc]

make sure to make a wiring diagram with color codes

[Red Horse]

I went out to the website of the Rhode Island Vintage Wiring and found that they do make the wiring harness for the B61,can't be that much different then my B87.Problem is that it's $1200 so I will be making my own.It will be a slower process doing it one gauge at a time but for 1200 I'm in no rush.

Sounds like you have your mind made up but just for kicks take a look at ..Vintagewiringofmaine.com website. Impressive but I hear the product is first rate.

[fxfymn]

One thing to consider if you do your own is to make a stand for the wire spools. I used conduit inserted into plywood end pieces. This allows you to grab several wires at once and pull them into a bunch. It is helpful to have someone there to tape the bundle together every couple of feet while you spool the wire off to keep it neat. You can cut the tape off later if you don't need it.

And kind of a "Duh" comment; make sure you cut the wire long enough with a little extra. (Yes, that is the voice of experience.)

You can also buy the little ID tags that clamp on the wire to help keep them straight.

[hicrop10]

Here are some pictures of the cab without all the wire harness and so forth in it.I have spoken to the fellow that does the dustless blasting and i'm going to see him tomorrow and get a price from him to do the cab and frame.In the secord pic you will see something to the right of the volt reg.,I was wondering what it is and what does it do.It has to do with the altornator I think.Will let you know how I make out with the blasting guy.

[thomastractorsvc]

a would say a resistor of some sort

BTW you should use something like this for the fuse block, will fit in the dash where the orginal was http://crimpsupply.com/circuit-protection/surface-mount-fuse-blocks/14-position-atc-ato-fuse-panel.html

[hicrop10]

I plan on using the orignal one.

[jackb61sx]

Well I spent the day stripping the backside of the cab so a fellow can make me a panal to weld in on the bottom middle of the back of the cab.It will only have to be about 2"x 3',it right where the back meet the floor.I had to use 40 grit sand paper to cut through the 5 layers of paint.Next I tried the new mig welder I brought acouple of weeks ago.Used it to weld up some cracks in the floor,and started to weld up some of the other cracks and holes in the floor panals.Never used a mig before but once I got going it seemed to work great.The final chore of the day was to remove the dash.Once I got the dash away from the rest of the big panal the wires behind was mess.I think what I'm going to do is just ripe out all of the wire harness and just make my own.Would like some feedback from anyone that has done this before.Will get some pictures on Sunday and post them up.One last thing does anyone know what thickness the floor is?It looks like something close to 16 gauge.

When we did our B61sx the wiring was shot probably like yours and felt it would be safer to replace. We thought of doing it ourselves but after looking at the time involved and researching a new one we opted to have it made up by Watts Mack, they have a person who makes them up, all labeled and with a diagram. It was done very well easy to put back in and looks neat and clean in the truck. Can get you pic of the harness installed if you want.

[hicrop10]

Please do,I will check with Watts before I do anything.I would like to keep the money spent in the Mack family if possibly.Thanks Mike Durkin

[terry]

Here are some pictures of the cab without all the wire harness and so forth in it.I have spoken to the fellow that does the dustless blasting and i'm going to see him tomorrow and get a price from him to do the cab and frame.In the secord pic you will see something to the right of the volt reg.,I was wondering what it is and what does it do.It has to do with the altornator I think.Will let you know how I make out with the blasting guy.

I believe that is something to do with preheating the early cummins engines. Terry

[Vladislav]

Read all with interest, thank you for posting.

Also going to work on wiring in the future so links above will be useful. I hope.

Will try on cloth covered wires for my 1945 project.

[Maddog13407]

yup, would have to agree looks like some sort of a heater. i have scrapped and taken apart and put together many many b models and never seen anything like that on one before.

[jackb61sx]

Please do,I will check with Watts before I do anything.I would like to keep the money spent in the Mack family if possibly.Thanks Mike Durkin

Here are some pics of the wiring on the firewall and under the hood, also took a picture of the diagram that came with the harness, very easy to follow and well labeled.

[Maddog13407]

while we are on this topic, anyone know of a source for that big firewall grommett that the main harness goes thu?? id like to stock up on about 10 of them haha. they were also used on later B models down near where the starter button would go thru the firewall on a gas job B for runnin air lines i think. the early B cabs didnt have this second bigger hole.

[hicrop10]

Maddog,you must of been reading my mine(what's left of it).While I was stripping the firewall on mine I was thinking where in the hell was I going to get these.They were so hard they just cracked.If I find them will let you know.

[hicrop10]

I may take a ride up to the Mack custormer center and see if they have a copy of the wiring harness that covers the B87's.It only about an hour north of me.

[mackmb212]

looks like your making good progress,way more then i am.

[Maddog13407]

i think i was able to buy a grommett kit from Watts before but it didnt come with the big grommet and thats the one thats usually shot! think i reused mine and put something on the inside of the firewall painted black to cover the draft hole. couldnt find a grommet. was gonna use a body grommet from a car but they looked too ugly

[farmer52]

Grommet - have you looked at McMaster-Carr or Dorman's?

www.mcmaster.com

www.dormanproducts.com

[hicrop10]

No pictures this time,only news to report is that I finished stripping the cab of all lights,air horn,grab handles today.The only thing left to remove is the windshield then the cab will be ready to be stripped of all 5-6 layers of old paint.I think if the weather is better in the next couple of weeks I will sandblast it myself.I can't talk myself into spending money to have someone do what I'm quite able to do.I'm going to build some sort of a harness to turn it over so I can blast the bottom also.Will have pictures of it when done.

[hicrop10]

Making progress.'m making a sling so Iwill be able to get to all sides when i sandblast it.

[hicrop10]

Here are some shots of the cab before I sandblast it.I did some sanding on the back of the cab,but it took to long to get through the 5-6 layers of paint.The sandblaster will work fine.

[hicrop10]

Hopefully I will finsh up sandblasting the cab, fuel tank, and brackets that hold fuel tanks to truck and other mics.parts by middle of the week.Then I will tackel some dings and dents and a couple of rust spots.Once the weather clears up I will be pushing the frame outside to sandblast it also.That will be a bear to do.Wish I had a crane to flip it over,I hate sandblasting on my back looking up.Will get some more pictures soon.

[j hancock]

I have used an old mattress or a pile of old blankets and rolled B cabs onto the back panel for sandblasting the bottom side of the floors.

Used two other people to lift and roll slowly and have never done any damage.

Sandblasting standing up is bad enough.

[hicrop10]

I made a wood frame for under the floor so I can do just that,the under side of the floor.

[hicrop10]

Here's some of my latest work done on the cab.It is completely sandblasted.Now I will start to hand sand it and do some minor body work.Only panal I still have to replace is in the area where the floor meets the back side of cab.I will be replacing a strip about 3"x30".After which I will prime and then paint it all.Have to wait for the weather to warm up a little since my shop has no heat.