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Perhaps someone would be kind enough to offer some advice. While getting my recently acquired 65 B61ST ready for winter storage, all went smoothly except I can't get the luberfiner gasket to seal. This is the first time since 1972 (on an H67) since I did this, but don't recall having any problems previously.

nothing appears amiss; gasket has no tears, clamp seems to tighten normally. What might be the problem?

Thanks for replies.

Bill Alexander

Mansfield, Ohio

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Perhaps someone would be kind enough to offer some advice. While getting my recently acquired 65 B61ST ready for winter storage, all went smoothly except I can't get the luberfiner gasket to seal. This is the first time since 1972 (on an H67) since I did this, but don't recall having any problems previously.

nothing appears amiss; gasket has no tears, clamp seems to tighten normally. What might be the problem?

Thanks for replies.

Bill Alexander

Mansfield, Ohio

Is this a luberfiner brand name or is this a mack full flow oil filter because it makes adifference and if a luber fine is the oring square or is it oval round ?Old engine used a 500 luber finer with 2 small lines to the bottom maybe #6 and the mack full flow used 1 #6 hose and 2 # 16 hoses glenn

glenn akers

Perhaps someone would be kind enough to offer some advice. While getting my recently acquired 65 B61ST ready for winter storage, all went smoothly except I can't get the luberfiner gasket to seal. This is the first time since 1972 (on an H67) since I did this, but don't recall having any problems previously.

nothing appears amiss; gasket has no tears, clamp seems to tighten normally. What might be the problem?

Thanks for replies.

Bill Alexander

Mansfield, Ohio

Been a long time since I did one of those filters too.

A 1965 would probably have the Mack combination full flow/bypass filter (known back then as the "duplex clarifier).

Make sure you have the right O ring,and the right filter cartridge, if I remember the O ring for the Mack filter is thicker than for a luberfiner.

When tightening the clamp, snug it up, then tap all the way around the clamp with a hammer, tighten some more, then tap some more etc. until the clamp is fully seated and the O ring is compressed.

Just tightening the clamp without hammering & retightening will

not compress the O ring sufficiently.

Don't forget to fill the filter housing with oil before starting the engine, and be sure to leave the top plug loose and bleed the air out while the engine is at idle speed.

When oil starts escaping around the loose plug, then you can tighten it.

"If You Can't Shift It Smoothly, You Shouldn't Be Driving It"

Thanks for that tip. I got a filter same as the one that I pulled out of it. Gasket/o ring appeared undamaged so I used it again.

I twice last night tried the tighten slightly/tap procedure you described , but was not successfull. Still leaks. Frustrating. The gasket does not fit snuggly in the groove in the lower half of the filter canister, but I don't have the experience to tell if this is normal.

I imagine the next step is to try and find a new gasket. Any suggestions?

Bill

Make sure you have the right O ring,and the right filter cartridge, if I remember the O ring for the Mack filter is thicker than for a luberfiner.

When tightening the clamp, snug it up, then tap all the way around the clamp with a hammer, tighten some more, then tap some more etc. until the clamp is fully seated and the O ring is compressed.

Just tightening the clamp without hammering & retightening will

not compress the O ring sufficiently.

Don't forget to fill the filter housing with oil before starting the engine, and be sure to leave the top plug loose and bleed the air out while the engine is at idle speed.

When oil starts escaping around the loose plug, then you can tighten it.

If you can't find one, you can always build one.

'O' rings come in numbers (SAE?).

143

245

337

445

A 4XX is about 5/16 diameter.

a 5XX is about 3/8.

Somewhere in the great void, there is an SAE number that will match the filter 'O' ring.

Finding it might be tough, but you'll only do it once, 'cause you'll remember from that point on.

Building one is an easy thing to do. But first you have to find the proper size round, square, or rectangular

stock, then cut it SQUARE off, a little undersized and super glue it togather.

There are differant materials also.

Buna, Viton, (maybe THE best) and neoprean (sp).

I've built 'O' rings for years and had Very good luck along the way.

Loctite makes a kit #00112

So does NAPN #770-1011

The issue with these is that the kit will not have the size stock you will need and although it is cool to have,

you still may not find it too handy to have collecting dust!

Just another thought to mess with your mind! LOL

Buy the way, I always change the 'O' ring. A little leak can make a big mess!

Packer

Keep a clutchin'

Packer,

Good thoughts, thanks. Yes, a little leak makes a big mess!! I've got 60-70 lbs of absorbant underneath plus a pail full of oil to show for the several attempts I have made. I was suprised the new filter (Wix) didn't come with a new ring.

I called Watt's today and the parts man is looking into a new ring. Might have to buy another filter with new ring included.

Make one up? That's a novel thought. Never tried that before. I'll see about getting an OEM replacement first.

Measure the ID, OD and see if you can get an SAE number for it.

Then find an 'O' rind supply house and order 2 or 3.

Viton is the best material for the 'O' ring. They cost a bit more but are well worth the extra.

Buna-N will NOT resist hydrocarbons as well as Viton (They tend to soft and gooey) and Viton can be reused in a pinch.

Packer

Keep a clutchin'

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