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It is going to be sharp when all the bright parts are on it.  Paul

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"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

What did you use for your paint and primer for the truck, the frame and door panes/interior.  As a DIY painter that info can help others since it looks like the products worked out well for you.

Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

Thanks for posting that info.  Not many posts with how something is done start to finish.  My hope is if someone starts reading this one they will not be afraid to tackle some of the work.

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Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

9 hours ago, thomastractorsvc said:

Thanks for posting that info.  Not many posts with how something is done start to finish.  My hope is if someone starts reading this one they will not be afraid to tackle some of the work.

I'll be the first to admit I'm bad at documenting my work, and I'm even worse at teaching.  If anybody has any questions about something I did I'll be happy to answer them in detail.

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Looks great !    I like the exhaust tips.  And very impressed with paint.

 

                                                                                                             

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Keith 

Today i got the frame needle scaled and a painted.  I also threw on the inside rears just to evaluate my studs.  Now, im not very experienced with these style of nuts, but I think I will need to get some stepped nuts to engage on more threads since these aluminum wheels are thicker than the steels.  Also, I'm a little concerned how the nuts sit in the conicals of the wheels since the wheels are so worn. I included one picture of each situation.   opinions are welcomed...

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Edited by DieselDeere

Looking good to me but those inside nuts look to be on the wrong side of the rim or maybe its just my eyes are getting old dunno I would have thought there should be a lot more cone hanging out side the rim it looks like its on the side of the rime to me 

 

Paul

I've had similar problems with Alum Budds replacing steel when working on older MCI coach conversions some time ago, generally we left steels on the inner... only cure I've used is new longer studs to get a deeper purchase of the inner nut. I also see the same problem on front hubs, there has to be two threads showing after full torque (dot rules). I think there is a solution to the rear inner nut, I've seen but can't locate a supplier of a deeper thread nut that gets a better grip on the original stud and thicker rim.

maybe someone has the solution already documented, try a Euclid catalogue as they are my supplier of the regular studs and nuts. If I find any references in my old bus info I will post it. Whatever you do, make sure you have enough thread purchase on the inner nuts, I've seen a lot of Budd duals still bolted together on the side of the road, one stud fails and it cascades as the load transfers to the adjacent stud.

BC Mack

diesel deere   the studs you are showing are for STEEL wheels only  i will post a picture of of the correct studs  if you intend to use alum rims both inner and outer I don`t have one handy right now but will get one up tomorrow         ps your wheels are not worn

Edited by carlotpilot
6 hours ago, carlotpilot said:

diesel deere   the studs you are showing are for STEEL wheels only  i will post a picture of of the correct studs  if you intend to use alum rims both inner and outer I don`t have one handy right now but will get one up tomorrow         ps your wheels are not worn

Thanks for the responses. I knew something didn't seem right. So per this catalog i found, it looks like  should order all new wheel hardware. Front and rear?

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Today I got the new lock cylinders in and got all the mechanisms cleaned and lubed.  This allowed me to get the door panels on.  I was anxious to see how the passenger power window worked considering how it barely moved when i got the truck.  I determined most of the lack of movement was due to only 2 screws holding the regulator assembly into the door panel as opposed to the required 6, because it was flexing and binding.  Its no rocketship but it reliably goes up and down without issue so im pleased.  Since i determined (thanks to your guy's help) that i needed new wheel hardware, the outer wheels were going to sit around for a while so to get them out of the way I leaned them against the hubs. plus it just looks a whole lot better after seeing it for 3 months on 6 wheels.

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16 minutes ago, carlotpilot said:

no you don`t need all new hard ware just 40 of these little cuties

 

 

 

ok great.  I just ordered 20 lefts and 20 rights. hopefully i'll have them wednesday or thursday. Thanks for the help.

5 minutes ago, DieselDeere said:

ok great.  I just ordered 20 lefts and 20 rights. hopefully i'll have them wednesday or thursday. Thanks for the help.

what are they charging for them now ? last i bought new were around 6.50 each

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