B61 Removal of Rear Leaf Springs

[thomastractorsvc]

Its time for me to pull the broken spring pack off.

What's the best way to get the non lubed pins out, they have a rubber sleeve around them and just a cotter pin on one end, I started to heat up the pin but stopped when I seen the rubber smoking, I tried to drive out but they are rusted solid.

My thoughts were to torch them off then drive out the ends, but I did not want to ruin anything so I thought I should ask the experts.

[Freightrain]

Doesn't sound like the same set up I had. Single axle? Might be a lighter suspension then mine?

[39 Baby Mack]

As long as it's a steel hanger you're better off trying to heat the hanger rather than the pin. heat expands cold contracts.

Then try driving the pin out.

I don't know whether the rubber sleeves are still available or not incase you would burn one up.

But in my opinion they really aren't necessary anyway.

Ron

[Freightrain]

I rebushed mine back when I bought the truck. It was just a brass bushing.

Are talking like a typical car spring bushing, with rubber and steel sleeve?

[39 Baby Mack]

Larry,

I believe he's talking about the rear spring hanger on the rear axle on a single axle.

There's no bushing it's just a "slipper" hanger where the spring rides.

It has a rebound pin in the hanger with a rubber sleeve around the pin which acts as a snubber.

This is the pin he's trying to remove.

Ron

[j hancock]

That rubber bushing could be made from a chunk of rubber or just left off when it goes back together. The pin HAS to go back in.

I asked the dealer near me one time about them and he responded with "you are kidding me, right?".

[thomastractorsvc]

Larry,

I believe he's talking about the rear spring hanger on the rear axle on a single axle.

There's no bushing it's just a "slipper" hanger where the spring rides.

It has a rebound pin in the hanger with a rubber snubber sleeve around the pin which acts as a snubber.

This is the pin he's trying to remove.

Ron

exactly, I heated up the hanger again and tried pounding it out and then put more pb plaster to it, then let it set for awhile then tried an air hammer, nothing so I heated it again and put more pb blaster, will try again if not I am going to cut it with the tourch, the front one is rusted down about half its size in the middle, the greased pin that goes through the leaf spring takes grease so I am hoping that one will come out easy.

[thomastractorsvc]

Larry

I will take some pictures before I cut it off so you can see what I am talking about

[Freightrain]

Ahh, I get it(thanks Ron). I thought you were speaking of the mounting pin, not the slipper pads and safety pins. My pins were bare when I bought the truck. Replaced them with bolts when I pulled it apart. Not correct, but ran that way for 10 yrs til I put the air ride on it.

Here is fixing it after I broke a leaf a few years back. I used a carriage style bolt for the safety:

Broken spring: I cut them down to 3 leaf and after 8 yrs the original leafs gave up one day.

I had them put 3 new leafs on both sides. Lasted til I put the air ride on it couple years ago.

[thomastractorsvc]

Larry you saved me from taking pictures!!!

I am going to put grade 8 bolts back in, dont know if I will cut the head off and drill it or just leave plain.

[MHfred]

I have removed the springs on my 1954WC22 White and my rear pin was the same as yours. I think on mine that pin normally had no weight on it-only when the overload springs came down on it. It also was hidden by a rubber bushing. I found the rubber bushings at 2 different spring shops.

EDIT: I rechecked my springs and it had no weight on the pin because the truck has no weight on it. I don't think it has an overlaod on it???

[Freightrain]

I just slipped the carriage bolt through and put a nut on the other side. Easy to removed when needed. Yes, they aren't in contact under normal driving, mine never had a mark in them. They won't "rattle".

[Maddog13407]

have not seen many B models that actually still had the rubber in that back hanger. you could use a metal sawsall blade and cut on both sides of the spring/rubber . this way you can get the spring out , and remove the hanger from frame, put it in a press, heat the hanger and press the cut pieces out of the hanger.

[HugeHugh]

I'm removing the front leaf springs on my B61 and I hit a hurdle on the greasable pins.  There isn't much room between the starter and the back side of the right pin.  There isn't much room between the engine and the left side pin either.  The right side pin will at least spin.  I have a long air hammer bit coming to see if that will knock it out.  The left side pin doesn't move yet.  It sounds like the entire hanger has to come out of truck in order to remove the pins when the pin is really stuck.  Any other worthwhile ideas to get those pins out?    

[Rob]

I made a deep receiving socket from a piece of 2" round stock and used a very large "C" clamp years ago. I subsequently replaced the clamp with a 2" push port o power cylinder and will still use it if needed. Just have to stack nuts inside the cavity vacated by the pin as it's pushed free. Otherwise yes, remove the spring hanger.

While that pin is out, ensure that hole on both ends is still round as I've seen them worn elliptical.

[HugeHugh]

On 3/21/2021 at 4:46 PM, Rob said:

I made a deep receiving socket from a piece of 2" round stock and used a very large "C" clamp years ago. I subsequently replaced the clamp with a 2" push port o power cylinder and will still use it if needed. Just have to stack nuts inside the cavity vacated by the pin as it's pushed free. Otherwise yes, remove the spring hanger.

While that pin is out, ensure that hole on both ends is still round as I've seen them worn elliptical.

I'm glad to know that a "C" clamp might be enough.  I dug out my port-a-power unit to see how I can make it work.  Thank you Rob.

[Freightrain]

I was lucky my right side is good, but did rebush the left side.  Somehow I was able to hammer the pin out.  Might have taken some heat?  Its been some time since I did that job.  Only hard part was getting the front pad bushing installed and cap put back on.  Choice words did seem to help.  Lol.

[mrsmackpaul]

Can you use two splitting wedges on top of each other to drive them out

What I  call a splitting wedge is made of steel and used with a sledge hammer to split wood apart

Paul

Edited March 24, 2021 by mrsmackpaul

[HugeHugh]

Okay.  It's been a few weeks and I've made progress.  The 24" air hammer bit gave me enough angle to drive out the right side pin.  That pin was spinning in the hanger from the start.  The air hammer bit didn't do diddly to the left side pin.  I bought 8" and 12" C clamps and they had promise but wouldn't budge the left side pin more than 1/8".  I was tempted to get a 40,000 psi 12" bridge C clamp and see what that would do, but decided I don't want a #50 C clamp lying around after all this is done.  I decided removing the spring hanger and then the pin was the path for me.  Today I was successful.  Here are some pics.  I used a 1" round bar and a #4 sledge to drive the pin from the left side hanger.  It took 20 minutes of banging the heck out of it and all the way to the end before it fell out.  I'll get all this cleaned up and find a good truck spring shop in the Houston, TX area to rebush and otherwise get me good springs.  No more left side sag or worrying about the left front spring breaking!  I'm liking that.  I have the chance to clean up the clutch linkage as a bonus.

[Rob]

Certainly brings back memories.....

Glad you got it sorted. It IS a lot of work at times and is unbelievable something can be that tight to get apart.