2stacksuperdog Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 pb blaster? is that a trade name? Think I might go for the diesel and oil and thinners and patience. The first three I have lots of but the last not so much.http://www.pbblaster.com/ Quote Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephenellis Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 Looks like good stuff. We use WD-40 here and its pretty good stuff. Not sure about it's magical properties on un seizing engines. I am in short supply of patience but think I may need to learn how to take my time on this project. Cant wait to hear her fire up tho. 11 liter diesel should sound sweet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
farmer52 Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Looks like good stuff. We use WD-40 here and its pretty good stuff. Not sure about it's magical properties on un seizing engines. I am in short supply of patience but think I may need to learn how to take my time on this project. Cant wait to hear her fire up tho. 11 liter diesel should sound sweet. WD40 is a "Water Dispersant" and the 40 is the 40th try. Hence WD-40 is not much good for rust penetration. I like PB Blaster or Kroil. 1 Quote Ken PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephenellis Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 I can't find a supplier in the UK? Don't fancy paying the postage. looks like there are no tried and tested methods. guess I will just have to try and learn. The overwhelming theme seems to be patience. One guy said I could try towing it in reverse with a tractor and dumping the clutch. think that could be the way to destroy my engine and box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTFormula Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 Dragging it backwards and dumping the clutch will only result in damage. A little patience will go a long way in saving you costly repairs. Quote ~ JT Burkard ~ AKA Sweaty Mackwww.jtresto.com www.wickedreputation.netwww.jonathanthomasmotorcars.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fxfymn Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 I have heard the same thing about ATF and acetone. Supposed to be even better than Kroil and less money.As I recall what they did was intentionally seize a several bolts into a piece of steel by immersing it in salt water and letting it rust in place. They than immersed the bolts in various products such as PB Blaster, Kroil, WD-40, etc. along with the acetone/tranny fluid mix. Then they measured the torque it took to remove the bolts. The hands down winner was the home brew of acetone/tranny fluid. Quote Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephenellis Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 Yeh, dragging it backwards seams like a very bad idea. The home brew and patience is the way forward. do you think the injectors will come out without a fight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j hancock Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 Patience will be the key to the WHOLE project!!!I suggested the wrench on the crank bolt as well as towing BUT it all has to be done carefully!!!If using the wrench and you push it to tighten (clockwise) and it doesn't go or move STOP.Same with pulling, put a chain on the truck and pull GENTLY by just putting a little strain against it. If nothing happens within a couple of inches, STOP!Glen points out about jacking the rear end and using the tire for rotating leverage to see if anything moves is a good one because there is less chance to overstress anything.Soaking this engine for a long time is key and being slow and steady when trying to get it to turn over. Quote JimIt doesn't cost anything to pay attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephenellis Posted May 15, 2013 Author Share Posted May 15, 2013 thanks guys. hopefully getting her home today so the fun can begin. photos to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fxfymn Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 If it has been sitting a long time it is almost a sure thing that the clutch will be stuck as well. Try using a board or some other device to hold the clutch pedal down while it sits. Sometimes that frees it, but you may have to take the inspection plate off and try to pry the disc away from the pressure plate while the pedal is depressed. If you are going to leave it stored for a long time it is always a good idea to make something up that will hold the clutch pedal down to prevent sticking. Quote Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephenellis Posted May 16, 2013 Author Share Posted May 16, 2013 thank you guys for all your help. I had a quick look last night and the crank pulley moved a little when I turned the prop shaft. I will have a good go at it today and see how much I can turn it. Any other hints and tips would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TozziWelding Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 I bought an old Lincoln welder with a Continental motor that was full of water and rusted up tight as a bulls ass. A little time and some patients on my part I got it freed up and running and it is now my back up machine. I pulled the head and filled the cylinders with 1/2 ATF and 1/2 Acetone and let it brew for weeks. Every once and a while I would give the pistons a light tap with a wooden hammer handle. Finally I got brave after about a month and put a bar on the crank pulley and worked her back and forth. A quick hone in the bores and a new head gasket and she was burning fuel, nothing can kill one of those old flatheads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephenellis Posted May 16, 2013 Author Share Posted May 16, 2013 Great news ! The engine turns without much force. took the starter out and tested it... working ok. Going to try and turn it over with the starter tomorrow. I love Mack trucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gabby Vice Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 I'm new to your site but I work on shrimpboats from time to time and they sink from time to time and your motor may be floatin in the ocean but the ocean has no buiseness floatin in your motor.. I love the marvel mystery oil the best but add this to your backyard chemistry set. You will need ...... a good hot plate or your lpg fish fryer and your old lady gone somewhere.. so you can go in the kitchen and steal a big pot and lid or a piece of plywood ..directions put m-m oil in pot and get it as hot as you can stay back it will flash up ,put on lid or plywood to put fire out install in stuck cylinders , the heat will expand the cylinder and piston ,but at different rates wanna guess what gets in the gap then . that's the fastest way Ive found.. after hurricane Katrina in 05 I stayed busy for a while unstickin stuff for everone I knew hope this helps someone along the way TRUCK UP 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC Mack Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 Guess I'll have to ask the question....why do you want to turn the engine over... are you planning to drive it home?engines that have sat for a long time will have NO oil left in any bearing... and turning an engine over will scratch or score the crank, cam and bore...I used to do it in the old days, a gallon of oil poured on the rockers of a Leyland 600, jerry can of diesel and stuck 24 volts to it 'cos it turned too slow!!!!!!I can understand the desire to 'prove' the engine isn't seized, but in the end you should tear the engine down and check everthing anyway.remember, you are a long way from the supply chain... old Mack parts in the UK are as rare as rocking horse droppings so you need to look after what you've got...got to be same for wheel bearings etc, I can send scary pics if you need them.anyway... just had to put that out there, not trying to ruin the dream.... it's just the 'restorer' in me that says these things.... the red neck says givver!!!!!!!!BC Mack... a former Landy owner (15 of them) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTFormula Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 If there is some way to pressurize the oil system before to start cranking, that would be a very good idea as to not have dry bearings. Quote ~ JT Burkard ~ AKA Sweaty Mackwww.jtresto.com www.wickedreputation.netwww.jonathanthomasmotorcars.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 I would go along with BC Mack. I have dropped the pan and take out the bearings a couple at a time and get some lube on them, install then try it. But it's not the best way. Those bearings are dang expensive to replace and further more they are hard to find. Do not throw anything away. Your bearings can be rebabetted just like new when you send them out to a engine builder, machine shop. Remember to take one step at a time.mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephenellis Posted May 27, 2013 Author Share Posted May 27, 2013 cheers mate. it is not easy taking one step at a time. With a project the size of mine it's hard to find a place to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BC Mack Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 cheers mate. it is not easy taking one step at a time. With a project the size of mine it's hard to find a place to start.I would start by hiring a low-loader to take it home..!!!!there is no correct place to start when you take on such a project, regardless of current condition it will need a complete rebuild or VOSA will be talking to you on the road..the UK vintage truck restoration hobby is growing and facilities to help you are out there, pick up a copy 'Heritage Commercials' or similar at the newsagent and see the workmanship of the restored lorries. The same support industry that supplied all those new parts for your Landy can help you with the Mack.... I certainly wish I was back in the UK restoring buses and trucks, lots of people out there to help you.consider your Mack as a long term restoration project rather than a wash-and-brushup, survey the complete vehicle, determine what you want for an end result, figure your finances, free time, skill sets and a facility to do the work in and all that will determine your completion date.as well as my Mack, I'm doing a bumper to bumper restoration on a 50's Greyhound coach, one person doing all the work... me!!!.. estimated at 5-6000 hours, working weekends... so, nothing about this type of work is speedy... unless you have a fat cheque book.lots of people on this site doing what you want to.... ask Vlad, he's in Russia working on old Macks.sit back, take it all in and form a plan... see, told you it was easy!!!!cheersBC Mack 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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