Torque Rod Bracket

[let it loose]

I have a 96 DM tandem dump and I'm having problems with the torque rod bracket that attaches to the rear end housing. Originally it had studs that came out of the rear end and the bracket went over them. Those studs fell out, I replaced them with new studs and those fell out again. The next time I used 3/4 grade 8 bolts, lock washers with loc tight and that lasted a few months before they came out. I have bolts in there again and I'm having to tighten them everyday .

What the heck am I doing wrong here?

[thomastractorsvc]

tack weld them or buy the specialty bolts with lock nut

[kscarbel]

I believe there is a service bulletin on that. Why don't you visit the service dept. of your Mack dealer and review the older service bulletins.

[thomastractorsvc]

I believe there is a service bulletin on that. Why don't you visit the service dept. of your Mack dealer and review the older service bulletins.

My experience with the Mack dealers (especially here where I am at) is they will not support customers that are asking questions without paying for the advice and if they cant pull up your truck with a vin don't even try unless you bring a Mack part number.

If I cant find it aftermarket I now call and order parts from Ballard Mack (thanks Brad & Joe) in Mass and have them ship them to me here in KC. ( I am talking about my 1980 R not the B )

I could start a whole rant on that subject but that does not answer how he should resolve his issue.

Rob

[kscarbel]

My experience with the Mack dealers (especially here where I am at) is they will not support customers that are asking questions without paying for the advice and if they cant pull up your truck with a vin don't even try unless you bring a Mack part number.

If I cant find it aftermarket I now call and order parts from Ballard Mack (thanks Brad & Joe) in Mass and have them ship them to me here in KC. ( I am talking about my 1980 R not the B )

I could start a whole rant on that subject but that does not answer how he should resolve his issue.

Rob

Do you mean that Volvo's ownership of the Mack brand has resulted in a vastly poorer customer experience at Mack distributors? I'm shocked. How could that be? The Swedes told me their way was better.

[j hancock]

Do you mean that Volvo's ownership of the Mack brand has resulted in a vastly poorer customer experience at Mack distributors? I'm shocked. How could that be? The Swedes told me their way was better.

Is Volvo involved with Obamacare?

[thomastractorsvc]

I think it is, it will probably collapse under the weight of its own ineptness... "it" can be whichever one you want to use....

[39 Baby Mack]

Do you mean that Volvo's ownership of the Mack brand has resulted in a vastly poorer customer experience at Mack distributors? I'm shocked. How could that be? The Swedes told me their way was better.

Not much sarcasm there, is there?

Ron

[let it loose]

tack weld them or buy the specialty bolts with lock nut

I might go to town on them with a welder. They are driving me insane.

I believe there is a service bulletin on that. Why don't you visit the service dept. of your Mack dealer and review the older service bulletins.

I'll check that out!

[rsb502]

Sounds like the threads in the carrier are worn, if it were me I would go back with the Mack studs and use locktite........damn I can't remember the number I'll get it in the morning, anyway use a thick locktite on the studs, then use nordlock washers under the nuts. Also if its moving enough to do this then the bolts holding the bottom of the bracket to the carrier are loose, I would use the same thing there with new bolts. I have securement issues all the time at work on RR equipment and I have found the Nordlock brand two piece lock washer far superior to a split washer. I also have about 10 different thread lock products on my truck each better suited to a certain issue. Most people only think of red or blue locktite but trust me there's a lot more too it. I'll get the number of the locktite in the morning and post again when I can, Nordlocks can be purchased from Fastenal in a kit or by individual sizes.

[rsb502]

Got it, try loctite brand 271 or 2047, 271 is for fasteners up to 1", 2047 is for fasteners over 7/8" the STD loctite 242/243 or 262/263 is really only good up to about 1/2" over that it doesn't have enough density to fill the threads so it won't last an large bolts. I have 271 on the truck and use it on 1" bolts on vibratory tampers it holds up well there, I learned the lesson about the 262 the hard way having to rebuild a part after it failed on 1" bolts. Hope that helps good luck with it.

[j hancock]

I asked a friend of mine and he had good luck with Loctite 272 for some 1 1/4" bolts and supposedly is good to 450 degrees.

I like the idea of going back to studs as well.

Jim

[let it loose]

Got it, try loctite brand 271 or 2047, 271 is for fasteners up to 1", 2047 is for fasteners over 7/8" the STD loctite 242/243 or 262/263 is really only good up to about 1/2" over that it doesn't have enough density to fill the threads so it won't last an large bolts. I have 271 on the truck and use it on 1" bolts on vibratory tampers it holds up well there, I learned the lesson about the 262 the hard way having to rebuild a part after it failed on 1" bolts. Hope that helps good luck with it.

I'll give that a try, thank you. One problem is when you remove the bolts, gear oil comes out of the holes and I'm sure loctite doesn't mix well with that. I need to drain the gear oil completely and hose the holes down with brake cleaner.

[2stacksuperdog]

Why dont you put teflon tape on them?

[rsb502]

I'll give that a try, thank you. One problem is when you remove the bolts, gear oil comes out of the holes and I'm sure loctite doesn't mix well with that. I need to drain the gear oil completely and hose the holes down with brake cleaner.

Yeah no anerobic compound will harden in oil but several are oil insensitive meaning they are not supposed to deteriorate in contact with oil after set. Good luck with it.