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Good evening my friends, I am hoping you will be able to help me.

I am restoring a 1948 lfsw and I have just started stripping the wheels off. My question is this, what wheels do I need for the truck? Are there a common swap?

Looking at the front rims they are held on with 6 nuts and lugs, they look like rims with a locking ring?

Any and all information will be greatly appreciated.

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Most likely what yo have is a split rim with inner tube style tires.....be very careful with them old rusty split rims they will kill you if you don't have the rings installed properly.

Find out the rim size and replace them with tubeless tires/rim set up....

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Silly question but where would I get tubeless rims ? Are there any trucks that are similar? Think I would rather go down the tubeless route as getting killed would put a massive dent in my restoration plans.

P.S are they all stubborn feckers to get off? Took me hours just to get one off.

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Silly question but where would I get tubeless rims ? Are there any trucks that are similar? Think I would rather go down the tubeless route as getting killed would put a massive dent in my restoration plans.

P.S are they all stubborn feckers to get off? Took me hours just to get one off.

Tubeless rims are standard on trailers and trucks and should be available anywhere for less the $100. and they are all a pain in the but to get off. there is a post about daytons: http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/topic/31864-haten-on-the-dayton/

Matt

The tube tipe split rims and tubeless rims will mount to the spokes the same way. Only difference is with tubeless rims you won't have to mess with the split rim or install tubes. Installing truck tires on tubless rims will be just like a car tire and rim . What ever you do I suggest deflating those tires on the split rims before you go smacking the rims trying to get them off. Who knows how old and rusty the rings are ....they were not very safe when new and age only makes them worse...

yup, again, those things will kill you. I switched over to tubeless, got used wheels for $40 each. Lot of tire shops won't even fool with the split rims any more.

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Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

they are NOT split rims. they are locking ring rims. split rims came on old ford, chevy, dodge style trucks and were actually split right around the center and actually had to lock together and were Budd style and were deady. the lock ring style is fine as long as u don't mix and match rings and rims and everything is clean.if its rusty or rotted, scrap them. either route is fine but you will end up payin more for less with a tube type tire as most 10.00 20's are made in china. any tire shops that says they wont work on a lock type rim I wouldn't be going to anyways cause they are idiots. there is nothing wrong with them and they are still common on shipping containers. as long as the rims are in good shape and you know how to work with them, they are fine. the benefits of tubeless is they are everywhere. tube type I would still cage putting together. basically all our old ones we deflate if they are junk, and cut the rim in two with a torch and scrap them rather than beating your brains out with a sledge hammer tryin to get the rusty rim out of the old tire.

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FYI - - If you want to buy brand new tubeless demountable wheels, here is a link to the Accuride catalog. Kind of pricey tho but a good reference. Tab down to page 20. The catalog also shows tubeless and tube type demountable duplex wheels (super singles) if you decide you want to replace the drive duals with a single jumbo tire.

http://www.accuridewheelendsolutions.com/files/2012/09/Accuride-Wheels-Product-Catalog-Summer-2011.pdf

they are NOT split rims. they are locking ring rims. split rims came on old ford, chevy, dodge style trucks and were actually split right around the center and actually had to lock together and were Budd style and were deady. the lock ring style is fine as long as u don't mix and match rings and rims and everything is clean.if its rusty or rotted, scrap them. either route is fine but you will end up payin more for less with a tube type tire as most 10.00 20's are made in china. any tire shops that says they wont work on a lock type rim I wouldn't be going to anyways cause they are idiots. there is nothing wrong with them and they are still common on shipping containers. as long as the rims are in good shape and you know how to work with them, they are fine. the benefits of tubeless is they are everywhere. tube type I would still cage putting together. basically all our old ones we deflate if they are junk, and cut the rim in two with a torch and scrap them rather than beating your brains out with a sledge hammer tryin to get the rusty rim out of the old tire.

ya,,,those chassis also...still use dolly wheels,and no maxi,s,,interesting,,ive seen brand new ones recently...bob

I am very glad I asked ! The truck has been lying since the early 80's and when I got to it you couldn't see the passengers side tires for mud. think I will go out and let them down before I go to work today. I will check round the local commercial tire places on Monday to see what they can do for me. I've heard of people being killed by exploding rims but I wasn't sure what type were the dangerous ones. Going to take my time removing the rears now. It's ok though as I'm not in any great rush for tires as you can see by my photos. I am glad I found you guys, would still be standing in the mud wondering how to get the truck rolling. Cheers.

Never had an issue with locking type rings and I have taken more than a few apart and re-mounted them.

If you do not have a cage, and most of us do not, use an air hose with a remote control valve (or simply unplug it), lay the tire ring side down with a locking type air chuck connected to the inflation valve, remove yourself a safe distance away (I go about 50 feet) and turn the air hose on. Most of the time you will not even hear the tire seat, but occasionally it will pop as it seats.

The key is to make sure the ring is clean and seated correctly before inflating.

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Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

Never had an issue with locking type rings and I have taken more than a few apart and re-mounted them.

If you do not have a cage, and most of us do not, use an air hose with a remote control valve (or simply unplug it), lay the tire ring side down with a locking type air chuck connected to the inflation valve, remove yourself a safe distance away (I go about 50 feet) and turn the air hose on. Most of the time you will not even hear the tire seat, but occasionally it will pop as it seats.

The key is to make sure the ring is clean and seated correctly before inflating.

soak rim,and tire with soap and water works better also when inflating,,i would just let the tire shop do them personally remounting split rim type tires especially old ones is a ballbuster,,sometimes you cant even break the beads,,they have to use a air operated bead breaker,,,its not that much more to mount them,,,just a fare warning,,,they can be a real bitch....bob

I had no luck taking the tyres off the rims and brang them to a shop.

Guys took them off with some labour but were going to brake the lock wheel because they didn't know there were rivets to keep the ring and the lock ring together.

After sand blasting and painting I assembled 10 wheels to the moment with no troubles.

Started to inflate them slowly being shure the lock ring seated well. Inflated up to the pressure securing the assembly with a couple of ropes.

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Dang you do GREAT work!

Ken

PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack"

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