need confirmation on part numbers

[doubleclutchinweasel]

Mack thinks my tie rod cross tube is a 7QH243. I even have a length from them (60.06") of the tube, which matches mine. I still can't find a number on mine.

Any of you old parts guys know if that sounds right for my 1970 R611ST?

Old parts are non-returnable!

[2stacksuperdog]

Did they go by vin#?

[doubleclutchinweasel]

Did they go by vin#?

Can't really get a straight answer as to whether they used the vin or the axle series (FA535). I did give them the vin. But, all the parts counter folks said they could not access the individual parts breakdown for the axle assembly, only the assembly itself.

They had to contact Mack to get the tube number. That's where my confidence started to fade!

I was hoping this number might ring a bell with some of the old-timers. I'd feel great if I could find that number on the old tube!

By the way, the ends they spec'd were 10QH37 & 10QH38.

[rsb502]

my cros reference book shows a 10QH38 listed for a FA532 side zerk 4.875" length, makes it an E-4607 Euclid for a curbside end. I cant find a reference for an FA535 or a 10QH347 in my Euclid book, what is the front axle rating? are you sure its not an FA536? are they fine or coarse thread?

[rsb502]

Heres some p/n info for R models from the Euclid book.

[2stacksuperdog]

Yeah we needed a water hose that was a different size on each end so our parts guy had the mack museum trace it down.

[doubleclutchinweasel]

my cros reference book shows a 10QH38 listed for a FA532 side zerk 4.875" length, makes it an E-4607 Euclid for a curbside end. I cant find a reference for an FA535 or a 10QH347 in my Euclid book, what is the front axle rating? are you sure its not an FA536? are they fine or coarse thread?

The 10QH38 crosses over to about anybody's part number. It's 12tpi right hand thread.

The 10QH37 doesn't! It's 16tpi right hand thread, IF that's the number I actually have.

Yep. That's right. Both right hand threads. But a different pitch.

And, yes, it's an FA535 (9,000#).

[rsb502]

Both right hand thread? that seems odd to me if thats right you would have to drop one of the joints to adjust the front end I have always adjusted them by turning the tube with a pipe wrench one end right the other end left hand thread. I'd make sure it wasnt a right and left before you buy, seems odd one side would have fine thread and the other side coarse also I think you got one number wrong but crazier things have happened.

[doubleclutchinweasel]

Both right hand thread? that seems odd to me if thats right you would have to drop one of the joints to adjust the front end I have always adjusted them by turning the tube with a pipe wrench one end right the other end left hand thread. I'd make sure it wasnt a right and left before you buy, seems odd one side would have fine thread and the other side coarse also I think you got one number wrong but crazier things have happened.

Apparently, this was common on oler Macks (Bs, Rs). When the tube is turned one turn, you get the difference of the two threads (1 coarse & 1 fine), rather than the sum of the two. Makes for VERY fine adjustments!

I didn't realize they had done this till I read it here. Lo & behold, mine was set up this way, too. See my other threads, & you can see the thread gages in the threads.

If they were the same pitch, you would be correct. But, one being coarser than the other gives you the adjustment.

This oddball thread on 1 end is what makes the tie rod end on that end not cross to anyone else's number.

[leversole]

MY B model (FA-517) had the 12 and 16 thread setup...when time to replace I went with different tie rod ends and a new (normal) left-right hand thread setup...

[rsb502]

Learn something everyday, it fits Mack would do that if anyone given their desire to be the best back in the hayday of trucking. I would try to swap it to a left and right as stated above so that it was easier and cheaper to rebuild in the future if needed. Good luck whatever you do and get pics on the road when yur done.

[doubleclutchinweasel]

MY B model (FA-517) had the 12 and 16 thread setup...when time to replace I went with different tie rod ends and a new (normal) left-right hand thread setup...

Learn something everyday, it fits Mack would do that if anyone given their desire to be the best back in the hayday of trucking. I would try to swap it to a left and right as stated above so that it was easier and cheaper to rebuild in the future if needed. Good luck whatever you do and get pics on the road when yur done.

I'd love to do that! What cross tube would I use to do that?

I don't really have any junk yards around here to pick from. But, if anybody has a Mack part number for a suitable tube...

[rsb502]

how long is the cross tube you have? just measure it and the ends and get one that equals the same length not really a big deal I can get it all out of my book if you measure it for me. just measure the tube from end to end and measure from tie rod end to tie rod end (bolt center to bolt center) I would guess since the 10QH38 or E-4607 is 4.875" lomg, we would need to get you a pair fo 4.875" ends and a cross tube, looks like a E-4611 curbside and an E-4610 roadside both coarse thread and 4.875" long will do for ends then we just ned to know how long of a tube to get.

[doubleclutchinweasel]

how long is the cross tube you have? just measure it and the ends and get one that equals the same length not really a big deal I can get it all out of my book if you measure it for me. just measure the tube from end to end and measure from tie rod end to tie rod end (bolt center to bolt center) I would guess since the 10QH38 or E-4607 is 4.875" lomg, we would need to get you a pair fo 4.875" ends and a cross tube, looks like a E-4611 curbside and an E-4610 roadside both coarse thread and 4.875" long will do for ends then we just ned to know how long of a tube to get.

My tube looks like it's about 60" long. The one Mack spec'd is 60.06". So, I'd say we're pretty close there.

The ends, as you probably already know, are 1-1/8" threads. And the mounting threads are 3/4-16. I have the stud taper dimensions around here somewhere. But the 10QH38 cross reference probably gives that info too.

Actually, I believe your E4607 appears to be the same as the "industry standard" ES405R, which I believe is what I crossed the Mack part over to when I first looked into this.

The overall length looks like about 64-1/2", center-to-center, give or take.

The middle portion of the tube is about 2" in diameter, & steps down to a smaller diameter at each end.

It uses standard "clamps" to lock the tube in position.

If the ES405R and ES405L ends fit the knuckles, than all I really need is a tube which will fill in the gap between them. I don't really care if it is for a Mack, a GMC, a Ford, or a Peterbilt...as long as it'll hold my front wheels straight!

[rsb502]

I'll look it up tomorrow, all you really need is for 50% or more of the threads to be inside the tube when its in adjustment, I'm pretty sure I can get a combination that will work out of my books. That was 64.5" end bolt to end bolt centers when they are tight in the knuckles right?

[doubleclutchinweasel]

I'll look it up tomorrow, all you really need is for 50% or more of the threads to be inside the tube when its in adjustment, I'm pretty sure I can get a combination that will work out of my books. That was 64.5" end bolt to end bolt centers when they are tight in the knuckles right?

Yes, as near as I can tell. I will double-check this afternoon. it was rainy and dark last night, and the corn liquor had started to affect my measuring ability!

I was using the approximate 60" tube length (from memory), plus about 2-1/4" from the end of tube to the center of the stud for each end. Again, I'll try to get a direct measurement this afternoon.

I found my stud dimension sketch last night. It does appear that the E-4607 and E-4608 are pretty close matches for the old Mack parts I measured when I had the tube out. The "large end" of the taper was the easiest measurement to get, so I am pretty confident in it (1.030-1.031"). The "taper length" is a bit more difficult to measure. Mine LOOKED like it was between 1.100-1.125" long, and theirs is listed as 1.070". Pretty close. Of course, given any difference in the taper length, the "small end" diameter would vary accordingly. But, mine appeared to be around 0.890", where theirs is listed as 0.896". Again, measurement errors could be more than these differences, as could a slightly shorter overall taper length.

[Freightrain]

I freaked couple years ago when I ordered ends for my B. I figured they be LH and RH. Nope, just different pitch threads. Falls into the category of "what were they thinking?"

[doubleclutchinweasel]

I'll look it up tomorrow, all you really need is for 50% or more of the threads to be inside the tube when its in adjustment, I'm pretty sure I can get a combination that will work out of my books. That was 64.5" end bolt to end bolt centers when they are tight in the knuckles right?

Length confirmed: 64-3/8" c-to-c.

[rsb502]

Sorry I have been stupid busy, had to go to Memphis today to work on a Backhoe and now I have to go to KY tomorrow to work on a Jordan Spreader, Im trying to get confirmation but looks like a E4611/E4610 and a E9957 or E9958 crosstube, both tubes are 1.125"x12 thread the 9957 is 59.34" long the 9958 is 55.49". there is also a p/n for a universal crosstube/tie rod assy. p/n E9959 it is listed as adjustable from 63.86" to 66.14" so your dead in the center of the threads with it and its the same rod size of 1.125"-12 tube diameter of 1.5". All thesed are Euclid numbers so check em out and see what you can get for pricing and availability, im checking to see if the tapers on the ends of the assy. are the same as yours.

[rsb502]

ok looks like that assy wont have the right ends for your knuckle the taper is different, you can use a E-4607 rh and an E-4606 LH end with an E-9957 tube, the tube is 59.34" long and the ends are 4.875" long stud center to end that will give you approx 2.5" of thread in the tube on each end. hope that helps ya it should work out great.

[doubleclutchinweasel]

ok looks like that assy wont have the right ends for your knuckle the taper is different, you can use a E-4607 rh and an E-4606 LH end with an E-9957 tube, the tube is 59.34" long and the ends are 4.875" long stud center to end that will give you approx 2.5" of thread in the tube on each end. hope that helps ya it should work out great.

I'll check it out. And thanks!

[doubleclutchinweasel]

ok looks like that assy wont have the right ends for your knuckle the taper is different, you can use a E-4607 rh and an E-4606 LH end with an E-9957 tube, the tube is 59.34" long and the ends are 4.875" long stud center to end that will give you approx 2.5" of thread in the tube on each end. hope that helps ya it should work out great.

I found an Automann number 464.002 on a Euclid cross reference. This one is 60" long & is 2" in diameter like the original, not 1-1/2". Gonna dig more...

[rsb502]

The OD shouldn't matter at all, back when your truck was built the metals weren't available to make it both thin and strong like today so most parts were twice as thick as their newer updated counterparts. Good luck anything in that ballpark should work out fine, just make sure your rod ends are an exact match to the taper on those I listed so they fit your spindles properly.

[doubleclutchinweasel]

The OD shouldn't matter at all, back when your truck was built the metals weren't available to make it both thin and strong like today so most parts were twice as thick as their newer updated counterparts. Good luck anything in that ballpark should work out fine, just make sure your rod ends are an exact match to the taper on those I listed so they fit your spindles properly.

Yeah. Start with the tapers. Some of these tubes are 1-1/4", not 1-1/8", threads. Again, won't matter as long as the tube, ends, & tapers match.

Thanks again.

[doubleclutchinweasel]

I have found enough numbers, thanks to everybody's help, to feel confident that I can swap this over to something a bit more standard.

Thanks, everybody!