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I hate to see an old American LaFrance get cut up, but thats gonna be freakin sweet!

"Any Society that would give up a little LIBERTY to gain a little SECURITY will Deserve Neither and LOSE BOTH" -Benjamin Franklin

"If your gonna be STUPID, you gotta be TOUGH"

"You cant always get what you want, but if you try sometimes you get what you need"

Delivered 1 month after WWII was over. Pretty cool. I saved from the scrap yard.

Going to have hydraulic ft disc, air over hydraulic drum on the rear. Power steering also I hope.

All from the Ford F-700.

More pics, they are out of order.

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Storage area under the seat, the diamond metal plate lifts up from the back.

Hinged in the front same as the seats are.

Also air condition system under the seats. I'm going to cut 12X12 or so out of the diamond plate under the seat area both sides so the air comes up through the seats, real air conditioned seats.

Real bomber seats of some kind, come without bottoms, I spread the bottom ears for leg room. Hinged with springs. 2 inch aircraft seatbelts also are going to be installed.

Pretty proud of the bomber seats, the steel mesh is only attached at the rear so its cushy and springs all over. No padding needed back or bottom on these, fit me like a glove, adjustable tilt also.

Large fence gate bolts at the front. Vintage wheel chair seat springs at the rear cut in half.

Aluminum ramps store behind the seats on the wall,

has a package tray like the 38 Pontiac business coupe.

This truck is going to have so many gadgets its unreal, REALLY !!!!!!

Only thing modern will be the drivetrain. A 1988 Ford F700 with air condition.

And maybe 30 six in speakers.I'm on the fence on the speakers.

I had to cut about 15 six inch holes inside each door for access to install window channells. Totally different than the original set up. The outside door skin was suspose to come off to access the windows.

It was too rusty.

Truck will not be painted, I call it the BIG RAT. Yep "BIG RAT" is its name.

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Trying to find some pics of the dummy 6 inch hose on the side behind the door. These were bobbed off and mounted to the gig gag metal behind the wall.

Old fighter plane WWII art I want to put on it somewhere.

P-38 is my dads old race car. 1934 plymouth has been in the family since mid 50's

Restored as a rat rod barn find type about 10 years ago. Just so i could drive it on the street.

Everything pretty much period correct, even the tires are from the 50's

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Two questions I have with the car loaded. How can you open the doors to put the car in gear and apply the brake? How are you going to tie the car down to the hauler with 0 room to access the front of the car for straps?

Stock car, doors are welded shut, get out the pass side roof, been like that since 1957. The car actually dead centers on the rear of the frame when it is driven on, maybe not dead center but hi centers so to speak on both sides of the frame in front of the rear tires. Built up one side because the car leans with the old suside ft suspension and offset ft tires. I will make some kind of tie strap for the rear bumper area to pull down or access from front underneath center. I put a class 5 trailer hitch receiver in the front of the bed, back of the interior wall at the bottom for a winch or for a tie down. My friend thinks just a strap at the rear will be OK. With it in gear it should not go anywhere. The ramps in the truck are pretty steap for front tires going down up and down the hill. It drives on and off the truck. Floods a little if your slow. It will back off with the starter also if it dont start. Just a hell of a deal. The bed was just the right size for everything. But had to cut the back wall. That was a no brainer when I got the truck and started measuring. There is room in front of the car for 2 barn type doors for a tool and equipment area. Maybe gas cans, floor jack, etc. Winch will be out of sight in there also installed in the receiver hitch. Alot of thought is going into every detail on this truck. More gauges than you can imagine will cover the dash. Alot of gauges are going to be in pairs. All period stuff too. I got a large boat or ship red glass beacon last year at Hurshey for the roof.

Speakers are going to be for the kids, gang bangers and hipsters I guess. Its going to all the local shows when I get it finished.

I'm thinking what JTF is thinking... I think...

excellent concept... but... you need to tie it down correctly, a rear strap and leaving it in gear will not do.... morally or legally... dot will consider it as a "load" and you will need to prove to them the provisions you have made will meet the regs whether it is private or commercial. Imagine rolling the truck, your load falls off into oncoming traffic... Imagine you rear ending a semi and your "load" tapping you on the shoulder....engineer the tie-down system as that is a lot of mass you need to control....

been there.... headache rack saved the day.

cheers

BC Mack

Legally you need 4 points of attachment and a winch doesn't count as one. I would think of some way to put an access door so you can put a strap around the front tires or suspension. Ive done the "good enough" thinking in the past and almost lost a TR6 on the Garden State Parkway at 70 mph when having only three straps on the wheels because the 4th was cut. Car almost went off the Front and the trailer fender kept it on at the cost of $700 in body damage. Now it's 4 straps properly done or I don't move it.

That will be pretty cool when done.

I gotta agree on the 4 point tie down. Don't half azz it like I see SOOO many drag racers. One chain on the front, one come along on the back!!! JEEZUS.....they are VERY trustworthy! I knew a fellow 20 odd years ago that didn't even strap his car down!!! Yup, pull up on trailer and put in park and then get in truck and drive away. I don't know how he never killed anyone(or himself).

Even if you mount a pair of short chains on the front, pull car up, latch it and let it fall back tight. Then two rachet straps on the back. Easy.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

That will be pretty cool when done.

I gotta agree on the 4 point tie down. Don't half azz it like I see SOOO many drag racers. One chain on the front, one come along on the back!!! JEEZUS.....they are VERY trustworthy! I knew a fellow 20 odd years ago that didn't even strap his car down!!! Yup, pull up on trailer and put in park and then get in truck and drive away. I don't know how he never killed anyone(or himself).

Even if you mount a pair of short chains on the front, pull car up, latch it and let it fall back tight. Then two rachet straps on the back. Easy.

Most people don't have a clue or really just don't give a shit till something happens then it is to late. Then they are like I've done this x amount of years never had a problem.

Most people don't have a clue or really just don't give a shit till something happens then it is to late. Then they are like I've done this x amount of years never had a problem.

Even the 2" rachet straps are CHEAP to buy anymore. They build a 10 sec race car and can't afford some kind of tie downs? I've seen some with those little 1" straps with J hooks bent on the end. Tying down a 3000# vehicle. Well, the strap says it's good for 750# each, so I should be good, right??

I remember one couple that ran a '63 Galaxie. Their trailer was soooo short, they would pull the car up against a 4x4 on the front edge of the trailer and then run two straps from the rear bumper FORWARD to the end of the trailer. OMG.....if they ever had to hit the brakes that car would take the roof off their pickup.

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Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

Where are you located? Believe it or not I have a friend that is doing almost the exact same project. He is taking a 600 series ALF like yours and making it a hauler for his wife's Nash Metropolitan chiefs car. He is putting in a Ford 360 with a C6 and adding A/C, PS, etc. to make it a real cruiser.

Pm me if you want to get his e-mail if you want to exchange ideas, issues, problems, etc.

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

I agree with 4 point tie down. With the stacker trailer we had an access panel in the floor so we could reach up from the lower level through the hole & tie down. The front car was easy because the center between the tires was open.

In the 1st pic you can see the panel in place & the D rings in the floor for the front of the rear car & the rear of the front car.

The 2nd pic is from the downstairs looking forward, the access hole/panel is between the 2nd & 3rd ceiling lights.

In the 3rd Pic you can see the D rings from the front of the front car. This is from the front looking back.

If you haven't completed your car bay yet, you could put in an access panel in the floor near the front axle/frame, it would mean crawling around on the ground to tie it down but at least you are not depending on a winch (which isn't smart) to keep the car in place.

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OK a 4 point tie down it is, Got to keep it legal and safe. Would not want to loose it on the road. Probally should of left some access throught the side box doors. Its going to be awile before I get the car back to where the truck is. Glad I made the post. Maybe the front corners of the frame can be access from the bottom. Can the front tie downs go from the frame straight down or do they have to be pulled to the front ? Rear also can they be straight down or have to be pulled to the rear. Rear wont bounce at all. It will be locked down. I think i seen the car haulers pull their straps either way front or rear . Good stuff. Thanks guys.

I'm with you, the front for sure angeled to the front, I forgot about what I was planning for the rear, I was going to put a large pin, probally made out of a 1 inch torsion bar from a 76 cadillac eldorado. Straight down in the P-38 frame into the frame of the invader. Like i was saying earlier, when the car is on the truck it stops dead nuts in the same place every time so the pin should align pretty good, maybe have to slot the hole in the truck from side to side. Weld a pipe on the race car frame for the pin to fit into. The P-38 only has front floors on the feet area. No rear floors. Pretty easy to accrss the rear to anchor it down.

Any body know about the air over hydtaulic brakes on the 86 Ford F700 i,m using as a donor. Will i have to have a comercial drivers license in texas. Look like normal hydraulic brakes with air rear parking brake. I dont want to use this trucks hydroboast as it has lines and valves from hell. Heard a international has a floor pedal hydroboast set up thats pretty simple and basic. I need simple and basic. For a 2 ton hydraulic system

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