Rear Seal In A Triplex Tranny

[Rob]

That sounds very do-able Rob. I could go off the passenger side since the drivers side has the hole for original gear assy. Machining is no problem, I could make the gear(reluctor ring), just need to know how many teeth to put on it. I have access at work to super spacer to rotate part accurately to space teeth.

Now, getting a speedo and making it fit my old case? That would take some work. Not sure how to uncrimp face to get them apart. I do have an extra old one that stopped working so I have a sample to work with. How new of speedo do I need to find to get guts for electric version?

Having access to a spacer, or dividing head would be a must for accuracy. Masking plates would sure speed up the indexing. I would think that a horizontal milling machine would make short work of the external teeth needed.

Do you have the capability of profile grinding for tooling? I'm not positive but think that straight cut teeth would suffice as there would be nothing driven.

I'll put some thought to this idea and we'll further along.

Removing the bezel from the old speedometer is not difficult, but time consuming. Take a good quality screwdriver and very slightly round the tips; Just enough that they are not sharp. Clamp the housing, (face down) into a soft jawed vise with just enough pressure to keep the housing from rotating, and begin to wedge the screwdriver between the housing, and the folded over bezel. Using just enough force to roll the bezel open about 25% of the needed amount to remove the housing, move your screwdriver about 1/32nd inch and do it again. Repeat this procedure until you are all the way around the bezel. At this point, start over, opening to about 50% of the needed opening etc. The slow, delierate movements will leave slight deformations in the bezel that will not be seen upon completion. This takes time, Do Not Attempt To Hurry The Process! When you have finally got the housing clear of the bezel, you will be able to see that the "guts" come right out with a couple of screws holding the assembly together.

I used to get new bezels from an instrument parts supplier that is long gone. One of the jobs I had in H.S. was rebuilding/recalibrating gauges and that is the way we would separate them.

The needle is a press fit. It is best to support the shaft with a set of side cutters, (dykes) and gently force the needle from the shaft with another tool such as a screwdriver. Once this is done, the face will come right off. Some SW gauges were riveted, some used jewlers screws to retain the face to the guts. Either way, they are easy to get apart.

Now you would get to do the same with the new "donor" unit. It is much the same with the exception of having a circuit card instead of all those mechanical things. Remove the bezel, needle, and swap faces. While apart, be sure to clean/repaint, touch up the needed areas in the housing, face, needle, and wash the glass Also a good idea to replace the gasket that separates the glass from the bezel at this point.

Reassembly of the bezel to the housing is also time comsuming with improvised tooling. Using your soft jawed vise, place the assembled housing into the bezel and with just enough jaw pressure to keep anything from moving, use a brass, or copper drift punch to start to fold over the bezel onto the housing. Again, only go about 25% per round to keep from breaking anything. This really doesn't take a lot of brute force to do so a light hammering is all that is needed. For final crimping of the bezel, you can use regular pliers with the jaws taped to avoid scratching or gouging the bezel, but I have a pair of vise grip sheet metal folding "duckbill" pliers that I had the correct curvature, (radius) cut into the jaws. Once set for the proper crimp, it is readily repeatable.

I haven't worked in the speedo shop for 30 years and the supplier we used is long gone. I'll do some digging to see if I can get hold of just the movement and not have to buy a complete unit to destroy. Maybe save some money that way.

If you do need to purchase new then speedometer heads are readily available over the counter.

Just think, the second one will take you 1/2 the amount of time it does for the first!

Rob

[terry]

IT'S OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YAHOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ok, sorry. Just been a long two weeks of messing with it.

After giving up yesterday, I sprayed it with penetrating oil. I went out this morning and it near fell off with my fingers. Yes!

So, after I get the little tailhousing off I'll be replacing the seal.

I do need both speedo gears though, as the drive gear is chipped pretty bad and is probably why it tore up the driven gear.

Drive gear: SW447250 5 tooth

Driven gear: 154-P1 13 tooth

I think part of the problem with the leak is the fact the rear bearings are loose. I can't get enough umph to see slop in shaft, but I left the tailhousing off and installed the flange again. I could move the rollers a bit on the rear bearing. This is telling me that I need to remove some shim. There is one large shim and one .004 shim. Not sure if .004 will be enough, and if I need more I can surface grind the thick one, leaving the .004 to add back in if need be. I don't have any books to show what is what and since tranny is full of thick grease I can't check rotational torque. I think this might have something to do with why speedo stripped out. If the shaft was walking, then the gear would be out of location, causing mis alignment and possible problems(chips in teeth).

I know the tranny has some slop in main box, as there is an identical double bearing arrangement on the back of it. Don't think I can go that deep and fix it too?

Thanks guys. You can take alot of play out of them boxes by checking endplay on the countershaft, take pto cover off and mount a dial indicator on box to check against pto gear, at the very back of rear countershaft is a cover with shims under it to adjust endplay that will set both countershafts at once, don't have the specs. in front of me but should not be to hard to find. Terry

[Freightrain]

Yes, there are THREE different double bearings in these(main, counter, and rear box-output shaft). I'm working on output shaft,and the countershaft would be easy with just a cap to remove. The main shaft is the problem as I can feel it when I shift into Reverse. Sometimes I get a "ratcheting" sound when backing up, meaning gears are touching and likely it's mainshaft Reverse and the countershaft 2nd gear touching. I usually just give the handle a slight tug and it goes away.

I might drain the box and pull the PTO cover and see what the countershaft is moving. I know this box has always been really noisy after a long highway trip. If left in double neutral it really bangs around, so I usually leave the main in a gear to give it some tightness and keep it from "slap'n" around. It does remain quiet while under power, so it's not a major issue.

Rob, I'll get the old one out and start taking it apart. I know it would end up being a tedious job getting the bezel off. Got lots of time, so guess I'll get started.

Is there a certain number of tabs the ring should have? for a certain diameter of ring(if that matters)? I suppose the ring will be 3-4" in diameter. I can index the cutting pretty precise using the super spacer(horizontal rotary indexing head). I could also just X and Y the notches like a bolt pattern too. I could use a ball end mill which would give the tabs a nice radius between them.

[terry]

I have a feeling that counter shaft is a lot looser than you realize, it might be one jumping around making the gears touch. terry

[Freightrain]

Well, I have the time to poke around, so I'll drain the grease and check it out.

Thanks

[95k1500]

Recieved transmission number two, slowly started to work on it yesterday. Not to rub it in, but the large nut on the rear came off real easy just like the last. I guess my impact gun has large nuts!LOL! Any way everything looks good on the initial inspection. I will keep poking at it. I have not checked out the speedo gear yet, will do so and let you know the condition etc. if you are still interested.

Dave

[Freightrain]

I think my compressor is a bit on the weak side for CFM. 6hp/60 gal, but single stage, so it's not exactly real powerful.

I'm kick'n this electronic conversion around, but I'll keep options open. I need to get that old speedo pulled apart first, then work on getting electronic version. Then the machine work will be the simple part LOL!

Does your old box have the same part numbers on speedo gears?