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As some of you know I plan to build living quarters over the fifth wheel portion of my Great Dane trailer. Before I start to "remodel" the interior I want to install the necessary wiring and outlets. I did some research on the interweb but did not find alot of specific instructions for conversion. I am going to visit a RV dealer to hopefully get some information. I am open to suggestions from this group too. I received some valuable information from Hoover's Quarry (yellow B with sleeper - sorry I don't remember your name) and Leversole.

12V Circuit

I want to add some interior lights to illuminate the cargo area. I am thinking LEDs since they draw less current and locate the switch near the rear door. I am going to contact Great Dane to determine what factory lighting was available. Any suggestions on other sources of information? Do I also install an "outlet" so I can connect a 12V/110V inverter when I am connected to the tractor (for lights, radio, microwave?, fan, charging cell phone/computer, etc.)? Is the center pin (#7 blue) the "hot" 12V wire? What is the amp rating of the 12V circuit? Do I install dedicated batteries on the trailer and charge from the tractor?

110V Circuit

I want to add outlets and lights for the living quarters. I plan to purchase a generator so I am thinking a "RV plug-in" on the outside of the trailer for the generator or shore power. From the RV plug-in go to a circuit breaker box. Then run individual circuits with breakers. Anyother suggestions?

Any thoughts about LP tank and appliances (stove, water heater, refrigerator)? Or stay strictly electric?

Any suggestions for vents?

Sorry for the long post. Hopefully this post is understandable. Thanks for any information or suggestions.

Ken

PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack"

I might be way off base here but I remember seeing a moving van (Mayflower tractor trailer i think?) and he had something called a Sterling motor?? does that sound right to anyone out there? Now this was back in the late 70's and I think he said thats what powered the huge walk in bunk he had built behind his CO Freightliner. He also had a group of batteries he called them 'Golf Cart' batteries hanging off the frame of the tractor! Now this was a long time ago and I'm sure todays stuff is better

BULLHUSK

Ken; I would use standard 110v wiring running it in conduit if you do not have a wall to hide it in. 30A RV plugs are available at Lowes/HD.

RV's use an inverter to convert 110 to 12v DC to run lights, water pump, fridge, LP leak detector, battery charger, etc.

Give me a call this afternoon at home and I can help you out

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

How I did my race trailer. Two deep cycles to run the lights, radio and winch, plus it powers the control circuit of the frig. The frig I have 120v/gas, along with my hot water tank. That way I can run either way(depending if I have power or not). Little more money for both, but better for "camping" situation when you don't have shore power.

You can use invertors to turn your 12v to 120v, but I would not suggest it. You have to control your usage and then run the generator to recharge the batteries(more then 1-2 or them to get good longevity). Get yourself a good, quiet generator, that way you can run it day/night. I got my older Onan RV unit for $500. You will need to get a fuel tank for it and make sure you have enough gas for long stays. If you want heat and a/c, get a roof mount unit and then you will need the genset to power it. You could also get a house unit and mount it in the wall, then use portable electric heater for heat if you need it.

I put a long 30amp twist lok cord on the front of my trailer and plug it into the generator on the truck. I installed a remote start inside the trailer and run a separate smaller cord for that. That 30amp cord comes to a small circuit box in the trailer that everything comes to. The 12v stuff is all on a small car type fuse panel next to the batteries.

If you are around sometime, stop at the house and look at my trailer.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

Carl - expect a call.

Larry - excellent information. I will be in OH next week and would like to stop by some evening to look at the details.

I located a "RV salvage yard" about 40 miles from the PA farm. I plan a visit on a "rainy" day.

Ken

PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack"

As some of you know I plan to build living quarters over the fifth wheel portion of my Great Dane trailer. Before I start to "remodel" the interior I want to install the necessary wiring and outlets. I did some research on the interweb but did not find alot of specific instructions for conversion. I am going to visit a RV dealer to hopefully get some information. I am open to suggestions from this group too. I received some valuable information from Hoover's Quarry (yellow B with sleeper - sorry I don't remember your name) and Leversole.

Ken, the fellow with the B is Tim Hoover.

Just a little pic of the wiring in my trailer..............just to get you started. Just hook power to the blue wire with red tracer....................

DSC_6148.jpg

Buwhahahahahahahahaha

  • Like 2

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

don't kim hotstart make a small diesel power gen/heater unit so you don't have to idle overnight just thinking one of these might work , I personaly haven't worked with these just a thought

Those APU are nice, but kinda spendy from what I have seen. Used ones might not be so great either due to mechanical costs to fix them when they break. I suppose if you walked into a good deal, I wouldn't say no. I have no first hand use of one, but just from reading on the forums.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

Those APU are nice, but kinda spendy from what I have seen. Used ones might not be so great either due to mechanical costs to fix them when they break. I suppose if you walked into a good deal, I wouldn't say no. I have no first hand use of one, but just from reading on the forums.

I'd go with a generator too. Can't remember the guy's name, but he had 3 trucks, used to haul into Handy in Lynchburg a lot, and he had A Honda generator mounted on the frame right behind the sleeper on all his trucks. Ran portable heaters, air conditioners, and whatever you wanted. He said it didn't burn much gas, it was quiet, and way cheaper than an APU.

Producer of poorly photo-chopped pictures since 1999.

Leaning toward a generator mounted on the bottom of the trailer and wiring for 110V. I priced 12V/gas appliances and WOWIE! There is a RV salvage yard close to me that I plan to visit. Also looking at used travel trailers with the possibility of using the interior from one. Being an engineer you can bet I will research this to death before I decide what to do.

Ken

PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack"

Leaning toward a generator mounted on the bottom of the trailer and wiring for 110V. I priced 12V/gas appliances and WOWIE! There is a RV salvage yard close to me that I plan to visit. Also looking at used travel trailers with the possibility of using the interior from one. Being an engineer you can bet I will research this to death before I decide what to do.

Could just get a regular house fridge. We have one in our truck. It bounces around takes a beating but do to inverter issuses not working right now. 7.1 or 7 Cubic Feet. Go Rv and it jumps. they may take more beating but almost cheap enough to replace every 2 or 3 years if needed. Ours has been in the truck for over 2 years almost 3

I agree with Honda gens. being pretty quiet. If you did go with the generator and make it work with some quick diconnects. Then you could use it for other projects when not in use with the mobile pole dancing studio.....ooops, pup trailer.

Jim

It doesn't cost anything to pay attention.

Ken,i'm no electrician by any means,but I do know Great Dane does factory install LED interior lighting in trailers,all of ours (Clark Transfer) are so equipped.They are great! flush mounted, very bright,they don't get hot,there are only four in my 53' and they make it as bright as daylight in there! any Great Dane dealer should be able to get you parts numbers and info. I know I wouldn't want to be without them now especially with winter coming on and the days getting shorter..............................Mark

Mack Truck literate. Computer illiterate.

The two way power stuff will be easier in the long run. Nice to not have to run power to keep stuff cold or heat your water for a quick wash/shower. My 20# bottle last all summer easily with what I run. Having to run a genset the whole time to keep the frig cold will get old and will likely cost more in the long run. I don't have a full size frig, only 1/2 size which is plenty big for weekends.

A 3K honda is $2000, so balance the books and see. My old 4K Onan only cost me $500.

Stop over and check it out.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

Met with Freightrain Larry this afternoon. After chatting about his '64 Ford Galaxy 500 (nice ride!) we finally got around to looking at his trailer. Not the Marriott but definitely functional. I liked the set-up and it gave me some things to think about.

I found a '78 Chevy Goodlife 26' motorhome that is only a few miles from the PA farm. I am going to stop and check it out. It has a built-in Onan generator. If the interior is in decent shape, I will make an offer.

Stay tuned for another exciting adventure the continuing saga of "Farmer's Trailer Improvement".

Ken

PRR Country and Charter member of the "Mack Pack"

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