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:SMOKIE-RT: I've been trying to get all the parts and tools lined up that I need to replace the broken timming cover on my E9 out of my MH613 that got wrecked last march. I have all the gaskets and seals needed and a good timming cover that I can use from my parts engine. Iwas looking at my E9 overhaul manual and it requires 4 specialty tools that I don't have, and don't really want to buy unless I absolutely have to. 1 is a J-29288 timming cover to crankshaft alignment tool . 2 is a J-29303 seal driver. 3 is a J-29304 fan drive alignment tool and seal driver that is no longer available from Kent Moore any more. And 4 is a J-29287 cover alignment tool for the water pump drive. Allat a cost of over $1200.00 directly from Kent Moore . What I was wondering if it would be worth trying it without them and doing it a little different by instlling the seals in the housings off of the engine using a little different driver for the same size seals , and use the water pump itself to align the cover. or should I keep trying to find someone with the tools or wait the month long wait an spend the money on these tools I may only use once. Have any of you guys ever changed one of these covers ? And What would You do?
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:SMOKIE-RT: I've been trying to get all the parts and tools lined up that I need to replace the broken timming cover on my E9 out of my MH613 that got wrecked last march. I have all the gaskets and seals needed and a good timming cover that I can use from my parts engine. Iwas looking at my E9 overhaul manual and it requires 4 specialty tools that I don't have, and don't really want to buy unless I absolutely have to. 1 is a J-29288 timming cover to crankshaft alignment tool . 2 is a J-29303 seal driver. 3 is a J-29304 fan drive alignment tool and seal driver that is no longer available from Kent Moore any more. And 4 is a J-29287 cover alignment tool for the water pump drive. Allat a cost of over $1200.00 directly from Kent Moore . What I was wondering if it would be worth trying it without them and doing it a little different by instlling the seals in the housings off of the engine using a little different driver for the same size seals , and use the water pump itself to align the cover. or should I keep trying to find someone with the tools or wait the month long wait an spend the money on these tools I may only use once. Have any of you guys ever changed one of these covers ? And What would You do?
It sounds to me like your will have to have mack make a service call to do it. The cover to block is like a inlime engine you can have a machine shop make that. It will be the same ID as the OD of the crank and the OD will be same size as the ID as the front cover. The seal driver you can take the seal to the machine shop and have him make it. The other two tools i dont think would be easy to make.

glenn akers

SOME tricks!

You can get by by using only the water pump without the oring on it!Install the front cover WITH A GOOD quality silicone NO gasket Please! put the water pump in and snug the bolts in the water pump area try pulling the pump out if it dosent come easy tap the cover lightly in several directions till it comes in and out easy then tighten making sure the bottom of the cover lines up perfectly with the bottom of the block!While your tightening the rest of the cover bolts KEEP tring the water pump it needs to come in and out easy.DO NOT USE the front cover gasket THROW the dam thing away!It will curse you for ever they always leak after several months/years of operation NOT worth the aggrivation!

PS when deleting the cover gasket it requires you reset the cam thrust screw BACK IT OUT 2 full turns (BEFORE) you install the cover ,Once everything is tight turn it In till it touches back it out a half turn and lock the jam nut.

These tricks will definatly help ya sum!

Good luck with it!

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