Work begins on the B-815SX

[mowerman]

wow,,,looking good ...bob

[Vladislav]

Looks like a work is going.

Have missed this thread before, read with interest now.

Good luck on the project, don't forget to keep us posted.

P.S. Black&orange combo would look nice on my mind although I'd make the frame orange.

A black one doesn't catch attention and usually doesn't seem as had much labour on it.

Just my opinion, no more.

[Gmerrill0516]

I'm actually having second thoughts on the frame. ALL the running gear was orange from Mack. I'm not even sure the radiator was a different color. It would be easier to stick with orange and it might look better if I paint the radiator and shutters, spokes, oil filter, air cleaner type items black. I guess I have to decide soon...Thank you for the input Vlad.

Greg

[Vladislav]

Greg,

Let me put a little bit more to have you scratching your head.

Currently I restore WW2 army Mack.

It all painted olive drab. Including chassis, gearbox and engines on the some series.

I kept that line generally but wanted to play with colors on the engine.

Thought about green/gray and so on but resolved to stay with khaki but combined with black parts.

Recently I have done the portion of the black stuff.

Sand blasted, got to the paint shop, applied acrilik paint with matt additive like I did with khaki and after I saw the parts painted... They looked like I put some poor fence coat with a brush in my hand.

So no black chassis components and especially hubs for a show truck on my mind.

You also may combine different tones of orange for the cab and the chassis.

Again, that's all my thoughts only.

[Pawel]

Hello!

Great work on the truck! I'd also recommend some other colour than black - how do you feel about red or gold? As for the radiator - it works better if it's black, so you best make an exception here. Good luck with your project and have a nice day

Paweł

[39 Baby Mack]

The oil filter is a W.G.B. oil clarifier made special for the Mack Co. not a Luberfiner.

It is a full flow/bypass filter.

The Luberfiner is only a bypass filter with two lines, the Mack filter has three.

The Mack element # is 236GB311, the Baldwin # is P706-M

The large lines are #16 Aeroquip, the small one if memory serves me is a #6. I would recommend using Aeroquip FC350 hose when replacing them.

This hose, if they still make it, was designed to handle hot motor oil among other things.

Ron

[Gmerrill0516]

Ron you are absolutely correct on the three lines and the element for the oil. The element has the P706-M number on it and I found them at Grainger.com for about $40 if memory serves. I'll dig around on the FC350 hose. My lines are solid as a rock, scuffed up in need of help so thanks for the tip.

The welding went well (I'm still alive!!!) on the tank. The CO2 purge did work but the molten steel made an ignition source which when the fuel/CO2 mixture passed it as it exited the tank made a gentle little "torch like" event. It scared me enough that I decided to stop, flood the tank with water and degreaser and flushed the crap out of it. I kept it fairly full for much of the welding in addition to the CO2 purge and had no other signs of ignition. So YES it can be done with a lot of caution and YES I'm confident you can blow yourself to pieces if you get careless...Use all comments at your own risk! Diesel certainly has adequate vapor to ignite if the air fuel mixture is inthe right range.

Subsequent flushing after welding yielded a bunch of oily grime and crud. I'm going to keep a spare set of filters real handy once I get her running. Hopefully it woun't be to big an issue. I also gently heated the tank once drained to help drive moisture out of any residual crud and the tank in general.

Got to paint the tank now, fix one bracket rust issue and on to the next item.

[Mike]

Looks good. I've been toying with ideas also. I want to keep mine as close to original as possible.

Good luck with it.

mike

[Vladislav]

Good info on tanks welding.

I spent about a half of past summer to fix my 2 steel ones up.

Also filled with water and welded but had to solder up the repaired areas because found minor water crowls through.

Warmed up with a diesel heat gun for about an hour and than blasted and painted the outsides.

[fxfymn]

It's worth doing a lining on the tanks to prevent future issues. I'm using the epoxy kits from Caswells on the 25 AB. I know flipping around a big steel tank to line it is a problem, but it can be done using an engine hoist or some other type of lifter.

[Maddog13407]

B model tanks are not that hard to cut apart. I have done several. fill with water, grind the welds down smooth on the end caps, use a new wheel with a square edge around the front diamond plate. mark a line around the middle of the weld and tank with a sharpie and cut it with a sawsall. then you can sandblast the inside. I usually get some sealer from Napa or Eastwood. the red gas tank sealer from Napa is good stuff. brush the inside. leave it about an inch or two away from the end where your gonna weld. then weld or have someone weld the end caps back on. let it cool and pour some more sealer inside and roll it around to coat where you welded. AIR TEST it with about 5psi of pressure and soapy water to check for leaks. then your ready to paint. its worth it to have a clean tank inside. also gives you a chance to cut the tag off (where all the b models rust behind the tank tag) and cut the rot out and weld a patch.

[Gmerrill0516]

Hope this works. I'm attaching a brief video of the first ride for the 85LS1596 in about 30 years. I've got it starting, running, driving, and pretty much stopping...need a bit more work on the juice brakes...pain in the butt.

IMG_0960.mp4.mov

[Green Dash]

Congratulations!

The Bulldog on there arrives on the scene a few minutes ahead of the driver. The one on the Pinnacle I drive is so close to the windshield I can almost smell his butt.

[mrsmackpaul]

yeah its a great feeling when a plan all comes together well done and you no what these blokes on here will want next a some pictures and a longer video

Paul

[Loadstar]

Nice job Greg..... looks great. Your dad must have had a big smile on his face!

[eddeere]

Great work. You will really have a treasure when done. As for welding and grinding on tanks I have had good luck filling with Murphys soap oil and water.

[Gmerrill0516]

It was rainy and the truck is dirty like you can't believe...and most of all I didn't want it to die outside with no help to get it back into the shop. I will get some additional run time, cleaner gasoline and hopefully some fully sorted out brakes. We have a repair plats so we can take it for a spin when I'm confident I'll make it back..Probably some laps around the shop next time to be sure we are good. The brake lights don't work either so I have to figure that little part out too...the list is getting shorter. I'm really hoping to get it to the "barrington" show this year, which if I hear right is at the drag way in epping...Hopefully more room brings more trucks even if there is a $15 admission fee..

Thanks and yes I will get pictures and video soon...then I need to get back onto the 815!!!

Greg

[Gmerrill0516]

Update:  I spent some time yesterday trying to fire up the E6-250 as it has been sitting and I don't want the sucker to lock up on me.  The good news is that I cranked it successfully but was unable to get it to fire.  The tanks are off for work and I am sure it has lost prime.  I plan to put a new set of filters (filled with fresh fuel) and stick the fuel line in a jug of fuel and try again before it gets way too cold.  I think the pump has a priming plunger arrangement on it that unscrews and can be pumped to draw fuel then returned the screwed in position.  I tried this but it felt like it had no seal to anything.  Is this the right idea for priming it?  What do I need to do here?  All advise is appreciated.

I put the charger on each battery last night and today to get them back up to snuff.  She does have good oil pressure just cranking...

Thanks

Greg

[hatcity]

14 minutes ago, Gmerrill0516 said:

Update:  I spent some time yesterday trying to fire up the E6-250 as it has been sitting and I don't want the sucker to lock up on me.  The good news is that I cranked it successfully but was unable to get it to fire.  The tanks are off for work and I am sure it has lost prime.  I plan to put a new set of filters (filled with fresh fuel) and stick the fuel line in a jug of fuel and try again before it gets way too cold.  I think the pump has a priming plunger arrangement on it that unscrews and can be pumped to draw fuel then returned the screwed in position.  I tried this but it felt like it had no seal to anything.  Is this the right idea for priming it?  What do I need to do here?  All advise is appreciated.

I put the charger on each battery last night and today to get them back up to snuff.  She does have good oil pressure just cranking...

Thanks

Greg

When working the primer, did you crack #1 injector?

[Gmerrill0516]

No, Sir.  I will try that.  Should have felt like it was not hooked to anything?  What else do I need to do if anything?

[Hobert62]

When I put new fuel lines from tank front with a spin on filter it only took me about 75-100 pumps to fill both filters (spin on and original canister) to have fuel returning to my tank.  It didn't pump hard but I could feel a slight drag while pumping.   This was on my B with a 673

[fxfymn]

One way to prime a reluctant diesel is to run it on WD-40 until it picks up a prime. Spray oil-based (deep blue can, not light green water-based) WD-40 into the intake. It will run without doing harm like ether will.

I'm not familiar with Mack diesels, but I don't think you need to crack an injector to get the prime pump to work. Generally you crack an injector line to allow the air to escape while you crank the engine. The primer should fill the filters and allow the engine to "self-prime" by picking up fuel from the filters and forcing the air through the injectors until fuel is delivered. If all of the injector lines are empty it can take a while.

[Hobert62]

I didn't crack any lines open on mine.    Truck sat for a year or so since it was last ran.  It does take a little throttle to get it to first start up.   

[Gmerrill0516]

I like the wd-40 idea.  I gave it a shot of ether but it was counterproductive as it ignites before TDC and stops the motor dead in it's tracks.  I'll do the filters and see if I can prime her up and if I flounder (I suspect the manual pump lacks good seals to work and will crack number one for good measure), I'll try the WD and see if I can get her fired.  Appreciate the guidance on things...With a little luck I can get the old girl to my house and get some momentum back next season.  I miss working on it and fall in love every time I see it.

[hatcity]

1. the pump seal may just be dry. after a few pumps, they might seal.
2. cracking the injector lets air out instead of just compressing it. once you get some fluid showing, keep pumping as you tighten the line.
3. once you get the air purged, you should be able to get it to fire. may stumble a bit until all air is out of all the lines