lamountain1976 Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 I have recently started working on the electrical and air systems and finding lots of wires and lines that go noplace. I am looking for something to give me an overview, a starting place for troubleshooting this. Among the things I am trying to repair are the jake brake, the differential lock, the heater/ac and most of the gages. Basically everything? Can anyone offer advice or resources? Quote Justin LaMountain Consulting Forester and Horselogger Green Man Forestry Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/3358-wiringair-schematic/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaddeusW Posted January 28, 2008 Share Posted January 28, 2008 Ok don't get all crazy with all the problems. First prioritize your list. A/C can wait for the spring time but heat is needed for the winter. The diff locks might be more important than the Jake brake or vice-versa (if you run allot of hills loaded). How many gauges do you have? At the very least you want your volt/air/fuel/oil pressure/water temp/pyrometer/tachometer/speedometer. There are also gauges for: oil temp/trans temp/differential temp/brake application pressure/air filter restriction/amp meter. There are even gauges for outside temperature and some others. What gauges do you have and which ones don't work?The axle diff locks and power divider are all air operated. Just get an air line from the wet tank and run it to a dash switch then tee it to both the diff locks. It has to be a switch that exhausts the air when switched off. Same for the power divider.Wabco offers a nifty solenoid valve block that has 5 or 6 electrically operated valves that has a common air feed. You just run a bunch of wires to the cab which is simpler and space saving. Plus it keeps trouble shooting to a common spot where you can easily diagnose problems.Whats the problem with the heat and AC? Quote -Thad What America needs is less bull and more Bulldog! Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/3358-wiringair-schematic/#findComment-16587 Share on other sites More sharing options...
lamountain1976 Posted February 2, 2008 Author Share Posted February 2, 2008 Ok don't get all crazy with all the problems. First prioritize your list. A/C can wait for the spring time but heat is needed for the winter. The diff locks might be more important than the Jake brake or vice-versa (if you run allot of hills loaded). How many gauges do you have? At the very least you want your volt/air/fuel/oil pressure/water temp/pyrometer/tachometer/speedometer. There are also gauges for: oil temp/trans temp/differential temp/brake application pressure/air filter restriction/amp meter. There are even gauges for outside temperature and some others. What gauges do you have and which ones don't work?The axle diff locks and power divider are all air operated. Just get an air line from the wet tank and run it to a dash switch then tee it to both the diff locks. It has to be a switch that exhausts the air when switched off. Same for the power divider.Wabco offers a nifty solenoid valve block that has 5 or 6 electrically operated valves that has a common air feed. You just run a bunch of wires to the cab which is simpler and space saving. Plus it keeps trouble shooting to a common spot where you can easily diagnose problems.Whats the problem with the heat and AC?Right now I have the volt/air/oil pressure/water temp guages working. Nothing else works and there is no heat, which is probably number one priority, followed by the power divider. I am not quite sure what is going on with it... Quote Justin LaMountain Consulting Forester and Horselogger Green Man Forestry Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/3358-wiringair-schematic/#findComment-16687 Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThaddeusW Posted February 2, 2008 Share Posted February 2, 2008 Right now I have the volt/air/oil pressure/water temp guages working. Nothing else works and there is no heat, which is probably number one priority, followed by the power divider. I am not quite sure what is going on with it...Firt thing to check is if the hoses are even connected. If the cab heater starts to leak some guys just unhook the thing to stop the leak. Two hoses run from the Engine, one comes off near the water pump before the radiator to supply the heater and the return hose is plumbed to the water manifold near the return from the radiator (at least thats how it works on a 673 which isnt much different from a 676). Quote -Thad What America needs is less bull and more Bulldog! Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/3358-wiringair-schematic/#findComment-16704 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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