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had the same problem with our 72 DM. put a master kill switch on it and cured the problem. I think you could also find it pretty easily with what J said. or undo the battery cable and touch it to the terminal on the batter, if it sparks you def know you have draw there

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If your going to have it shut down for an extended period of time, I'd say a dead man switch is what you need. Or, you could spend a little time and find out where that draw is coming from. remove all negative cables from the battery terminals, use a test light to jump from one cable to the battery terminal. If it glows brightly then chances are you have a good draw on the batteries. Unplug the fuses one at a time to find the source of the draw. Whatever is in that circuit is the problem. Alternators and radios pull a little amperage so the test light will always have a little light.

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Maddog,I have done what you said about taking off the bat. cable from the terminal and it does spark,so I do have a draw.I am going to try what Jhancock said to do.Will let you all know when I have done this,hopefully will be done on Friday.Thanks for the help. Mike

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We had a lot of problems on old leece-neville alternators drawing down Batteries on a 2 or 3 day period. You could unhook and check, or we would just raise the hood after a night and feel of the alternator and it was warmer than than the rest of the metal around it than it is pulling current.

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The Superliner did the same thing till I swapped out the stereo, hasn't done it since.

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  • 3 weeks later...

My R model was formerly a municipal truck. They put a master kill switch in the cab of all their trucks to prevent something drawing juice by being left on but more importantly I was told that there was a case when something short circuited in a truck overnight and the thing caught fire and was destroyed. Nice truck you have, by the way. I like the red rims and fuel tank. You don't see that everyday. What does it have for a transmission ?

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