What Mack Truck Is Right For Me?

[daviddame]

Could I get you guru's to weigh in on the different models and options. I am starting a hay farm and have a need for a truck to haul hay as well as my farm equipment. I am told that I will not go wrong with a Mack.

Here is what I want to be able to do. I think what I need is a 53" drop deck spread axel with some sort of a dove tail or hydraulic ramp for loading and unloading my tractors. Most of my implements I can load with forks but I do have the need to ramp my tractors(s). As far as hay, I understand I can haul somewhere around 700 small bales (70lb each) so 50,000 should be my largest load as the tractor and implements would weigh in around 30,000lbs. Would love to pull a double with hay but not sure what the limits are as of yet. My understanding is 120,000lb but not positive. I live in Colorado so I will be doing mountain driving including a few mountain passes. I expect to run < 40,000 miles a year. I may also do some rock/dirt hauling locally to keep the truck busy but not sure if I want the headache of hiring a driver and dealing with all the other baggage.

Budget, as this will be a seasonal operation (well I will haul hay in the winter) I don't want to spend more than say 50,000 on the truck. From a resale side I'm told I should get a sleeper and it might come in handy incase of overnights to pickup hay.

Mack Model: CH613/CX613?

Horse Power: 400?

Transmission: 13/18 (what manufacture)

Suspension: Air?

Options: Jak, Wet Kit,

What should I be looking for and are there certain motors/transmissions that are more reliable?

THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR YOUR ADVICE!!

[Lmackattack]

Well you have alot of options I guess. You can buy a 80's-90's R model(pre electronic engine). They are cheep, simple and reliable but would likely need to be freshen up as many were rode hard and then parked. If you can hold a wrench it will be a very cheep truck to maintain as all the repairs can be done by you or any mechanic i.e no lap tops needed. If you do any off road work spring ride will be better than air for traction. many R models can be found with air ride cabs to soften the road and come with 285-350HP/ 6,7,8,9,10,12,13,15,18 speeds and a few with air ride rearsif thats what you want.

The 90s CH macks are almost as good (my opinion) as the R models. The Ch has a larger cab and has more comfort but I dont think they are owner operator friendly with the electronic engines. they also dont put the HP down like the mechanicals did. The good thing with the CH is that you can easly find them with more options than the R models had. around here the R was a work truck and they were speced that way. The CH has more of a in between mack and thats why you can find alot with air ride and off breed componets. Parts for Ch models are widely availible thry mack.. Sadly R model parts are begining to thin out. so this may be a selling point to you.

As far as pulling power in the mountains the R models and CH models cant be compaired to the loog hood OTR KW and Petes as they dont have the cubes under the hood to realy compete in that game. You will find a few "RW" or "CL" that have 500+ power but thay will cost alot more just for the engine option.

If you are new to trucking stick to what you know and learn from there. it will save you more in the end and you can always upgrade to a flashy truck later. I run a 30 year old mack part time for the last 3 years. never had it at a dealer yet for repairs. if I cant do it I have a local guy make the repairs at half the cost. cant say that about these new computer trucks..

good luck

Trent

[GearheadGrrrl]

IIRC you can run Rocky Mountain doubles (long trailer + short trailer in Colorado and two long trailers on the Interstates East of I-25. However, the cost of a 2nd trailer and dolly may not be worth the bother. As for specs, I'd try to find a CH with the small flat top sleeper- it's nice to have the sleeper if you get stuck somewhere by bad weather, and the small sleeper doesn't add as much weight as the big hi-rise ones. I'd suggest an E7 with a 9 or 10 speed, but if it comes with a 13 or 18 that doesn't hurt. Just make sure it has an engine brake. Colorado gets lots of winter weather, so make sure it has antilock brakes and hopefully traction control too. I'd look for Mack drive axles and the Mack bogie, but you'll probably have to settle for air ride. Best of luck!

[Superdog]

I've owned & operated Macks full time for 23 years,so this is my opinion. Find yourself a '97 to '01 CH613,one with a sleeper will cost you less than a daycab 99% of the time.A E7-427 with 13 speed Mack trans. would be my first choice,but Fuller transmissions aren't that bad either,but I'd definately stick with a 13 speed.Most CH tractors you'll find are air ride.I haul livestock,pulling a 53' spread axle pot,grossing 80,000 plus with my 427 and it does everythig I want it to.I run with the "long hood Petes and KW's"everyday,haul more weight legally,use less fuel and get there just as fast.

Main thing is,find out as much as you can about the truck's history.A used truck is only as good as it's been maintained,although a Mack will stand more abuse than others.I bought my current truck,a '99 CH613 a little over 3 years ago.I paid a little over 30 grand for it with 500,000 miles.It was a fairly plain fleet trade,but had the right specs,427,13 speed,Jake,3:70 rears.,plus an excellent maintenance record.Only things I've replaced other than tires and regular maintenance is the alternator,starter,2 air bags and one injector line.

[Gambi80]

I'd go against the sleeper for a couple reasons...one being if you don't really forsee the need for it, don't. Also, in my experience looking for a truck, trucks w/o a bunk *especially with a wet kit* hold their resale, sell quicker and sell for more money than a truck with a bunk with the same specs. Lastly, if you're going to hook a dump trailer to it, the truck is much more user friendly without 3-5 feet of bunk behind you.

400+hp should be enough. The 13 or 18 speeds should keep you in the right gear in any situation. An engine brake is also wise to save on the brake pedal.

Personally, I'm a fan of the CH. Plenty of leg room...like driving a pickup truck...and the creature comforts.

Edited February 18, 2008 by Gambi80

[rw613]

I'd go against the sleeper for a couple reasons...one being if you don't really forsee the need for it, don't. Also, in my experience looking for a truck, trucks w/o a bunk *especially with a wet kit* hold their resale, sell quicker and sell for more money than a truck with a bunk with the same specs. Lastly, if you're going to hook a dump trailer to it, the truck is much more user friendly without 3-5 feet of bunk behind you.

400+hp should be enough. The 13 or 18 speeds should keep you in the right gear in any situation. An engine brake is also wise to save on the brake pedal.

Personally, I'm a fan of the CH. Plenty of leg room...like driving a pickup truck...and the creature comforts.

YOU SHOULD ALSO LOOK AT THE CL IT IS A HEAVER TRUCK 9 SPEED IS BULLIT PROOF BUT SOMTIMES DONT SUIT IF YOU HAVE A SLEEPER YOU HAVE SOMEWHERE TO PUT YOUR STUFF AND A SLEEPER WILL BE CHEAPER

[Packer]

Where are you in CO ?

I'm working in Collbran right now - - - not far from Grand Junction.

Packer

[v8superdog]

stay away from the E-tech engine, i have had the mehanical E7, the E7 VMAC and the ETech and i have had just about zero problems with the mechanical and VMAC motors, where as 3 outta 5 etechs needed camshafts, and a few needed new EUPS and other stuff. I like the VMAC's for fuel milage, the only drawback of the VMAC is that the power isnt instant like the old mechanicals. I have a 350 VMACK now that i have a BLIXXTON II module on that has givin me better throttle responce, more power and about the same fuel economy. I can walk all over 427s with the module turned on but i cannot touch dads 454 Vmac. I agree with gambi, a truck without a sleeper and a wetline system tends to hold its value better than on with a sleeper, especially if it has camelback suspension. Bad thing about camleback suspension is that it rides rougher than log wagon.

[Doug Mitchell]

I agree with gambi, a truck without a sleeper and a wetline system tends to hold its value better than on with a sleeper, especially if it has camelback suspension. Bad thing about camleback suspension is that it rides rougher than log wagon.

**

The problem out west is that the roads get closed a lot, unlike the eastern part of the US. The sparse population means less tax base and less demand to keep roads open (fewer people harmed); the mentality is different, etc. As a result, a sleeper is not really an option out here, and even the big common carriers have them because getting stuck is such a real risk. When I came to Washington after growing up near Lake Ontario and trucking from Illinois to Maine off and on for a few years while my wife did her PhD, I was horrified. Little toy "plows", chain requirements, calling 18" of flurries a "storm" and no hesitance to close roads, even main Interstates - it was a hell of a shock for an East Coast Type A lawyer.

Get the sleeper; get more gears rather than less (13 or 18); consider erring on the side of more power, too; falling on your face on hills sucks. My experience is mostly pre-CH; I drove a first generation CH and it was a real pustule. I do miss the V8 Superliner I drove, and would love to get one for the basis of my RV, but fuel mileage would be an issue and my wife can't operate a truck clutch due to her back.