Engine Questions

[FayettesFinest]

So as some of you know, my R needs a motor. I'll be honest, I'm not exactly knowledgeable of all the engines and their components. We're looking for a 237, 300 or 2v 350.

My dad tells me that some 237s don't have piston coolers and my uncle told me that all 237s do, but the 673s don't. He also told me that on the timing cover, the 237s have "675" stamped and the 673s have "673." Is that true? If the above information isn't correct, how can I tell if it has piston coolers? We want to know because if we decide on a 237, there's a chance it may become a 300 in the future.

I hear the 300s are great motors, but I don't know a lot about them. Any information on them would be appreciated. Pros and cons.

I was kinda hoping on a 2v 350, but when I first joined, someone told me they wouldn't take the lugging from the 6spd tranny. If we decide on a 350, how do I tell between a 2v and a 4v?

What are decent prices for a used motor? I know that the mileage will make the prices fluctuate a little, but just a general vicinity on prices. I don't want to over pay for something.

When buying a used motor, what should I look for? What are good signs and bad signs? I know a little bit about this from playing with pickup trucks, but these are a whole different ball game. Yeah, getting burned on a pickup motor sucks, but I don't want to gamble on something that's going to be a huge part of my income.

Sorry for being a pain with all these stupid, rookie questions, but when I ask other people, I never really get a straight answer. Gotta deal with me on this stuff, I still have a lot to learn, lol. Thanks, guys!

[bullhusk]

So as some of you know, my R needs a motor. I'll be honest, I'm not exactly knowledgeable of all the engines and their components. We're looking for a 237, 300 or 2v 350.

My dad tells me that some 237s don't have piston coolers and my uncle told me that all 237s do, but the 673s don't. He also told me that on the timing cover, the 237s have "675" stamped and the 673s have "673." Is that true? If the above information isn't correct, how can I tell if it has piston coolers? We want to know because if we decide on a 237, there's a chance it may become a 300 in the future.

I hear the 300s are great motors, but I don't know a lot about them. Any information on them would be appreciated. Pros and cons.

I was kinda hoping on a 2v 350, but when I first joined, someone told me they wouldn't take the lugging from the 6spd tranny. If we decide on a 350, how do I tell between a 2v and a 4v?

What are decent prices for a used motor? I know that the mileage will make the prices fluctuate a little, but just a general vicinity on prices. I don't want to over pay for something.

When buying a used motor, what should I look for? What are good signs and bad signs? I know a little bit about this from playing with pickup trucks, but these are a whole different ball game. Yeah, getting burned on a pickup motor sucks, but I don't want to gamble on something that's going to be a huge part of my income.

Sorry for being a pain with all these stupid, rookie questions, but when I ask other people, I never really get a straight answer. Gotta deal with me on this stuff, I still have a lot to learn, lol. Thanks, guys

F F First of all let me just say there are a lot more guy on this site with far more knowledge them me on Mack motors so with that being said I'll tell you what I do when buyin a motor. First off I think all 237's came with piston coolers cause I don't think they would have made the day operating between 1200 to 2100 RPMS, I know when I was a kid my dad put turbos on some H models that he worked on to make them 205 hp's with no piston coolers and the only prob. we had was with the early 673's with the holes in the rod journels they broke the cranks now this was back in the mid 60's. As far as the 350 hp Mack they were not a high torque rise motor like the Maxi motors also you need to put an air to air intercooler in front of the rad so you need to do a lot a plumbing! But if you find a nice 285 with the tip turben inter cooler you can juice it to a nice 300 or so strong runner! the 4-V motor will have the injector tube commin out the side of the head with a nut on the injector tube the 2-V will have the one like your 237 commin out a the top with 2 bolts holding it in place also the 4-V valve cover is flatter an wedge shaped an not tall like yours is. When I look for a motor I like to find one that I could hear run so you can check your oil pres an blow by from your crank vent tube, if you can't hear it run then check your exhust ports turbo and intake ports for oil also check the vent tube the vent tube is the only thing that should have any oil in it all else should be dry! If who ever you buy it from gives you some kinda warnt. on it then take it back to the shop an pull the pan down an check all your bearings an if all looks good on top put a new setta rods an mains in with a reman oil pump (also check every bearning size an make sure they are all std. or cut .10 - 20 or even 30 under) sometimes just one journal might have been cut so make sure all are the same size even check the mark on the back of the bearing as I've seen the wrong bearing in the wrong box!! (10 under in a box marked std.) I also change the water pump on any Mack motor I have put in my trucks an pull the valve cover an take a quick look inside an change the V- cover gaskes as well! I have paid from 500 to 5-K it just depends on what it commes outa I always liked to buy em from a wrecked truck just make sure it wasn''t a rollover where the motor ran when it was on it's side or bottom side up (no oil lube)

Good Luck Regards

BULLHUSK