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mounting a pintle plate to tractor


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Ive been kicking around the idea of getting a tractor and getting into some bulk cement hauling. i would also need the truck to tow a 20 ton eager beaver tag trailer (almost 50,000 gvw). Typically it will haul a john deere 410 so the backhoe and trailer will be around 25000.

With the frame sloped down in the back how would i mount the plate to the frame. Would it be strong enough recessed into the frame a 1/4 inch or so then welded all around? The frames on the very end of a tractor are typically only 4 or 5 inches high there, that has me a little concerned.

How thick of a plate would work? 1/2 inch ok, or go thicker? I was thinking of something like this http://www.eztruckaccessories.com/hitch-plates/1809040.html, then just make a notch in it so it will slid onto the frame 1/2 inch or so.

79 U

237 5 sp

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I would use a 3/4 inch plate . make it so it bolts in and isn't welded. that way if you ever have to pull things apart in the back you can. my dump has a welded one and i wish it was different cause I have to change the rear a-frame and will have to use on made by dawson, it uses the bushings on the inside of the frame as spacers.

We the unwilling, Lead by the unqualified, are doing the impossible, for the ungrateful.

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I built one on an old horse at work and used a 1" plate. notch it so it goes both inside and outside the frame so you can weld it on the inside and out and then run triangle gussets inside plate to frame. by the way we tow a 25 ton trailer hauling a 309(i think) cat excavator or a read screen-all

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Mine is very similar to Jack's. I welded in 3/4'' plate with a triangle gussett laid in at an angle on each side running from the plate to the bottom of the frame. The dump hinge was already welded in so I didn't think it would make that much of a difference. I do wish it was bolted in because I've got a few cracks in my trunnion.

Jake

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My rear air ride came with a 5/8" plate for pintle hitch, fully welded.

SDC10692.jpg

Though it does not have the tapered ends like a typical tractor does. When I was done, I cut a hole for a receiver hitch and then put triangle gussets on the inside to support it. I then welded hanging D rings under the bottom for chains.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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I was thinking of getting some 3/8" or 1/2" inch thick angle iron, 4 or 5 inches high or whatever will slide in the back of the frame by 3 inches wide. Make it kind of like a double frame without the top flange for the last foot or two of the tractor frame, bolt that through the web with 3 3/4" bolts on each side. Notch the plate for this angle weld it, then slide the whold thing into the back of the frame. Drill holes bolt it and its good.

Depending on how low the pintle hook is I cold add angles on the sides from the frame down to the bottom of the plate. I think the hitch height of the trailer is 30 inches which is about the height of the bottom of the frame, so the plate might not have to hang down much and the angle braces might not bee needed.

79 U

237 5 sp

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This is not a bolt-on, mine is all welded and a very nice job by previous owner. It is heavily braced, has a 40ton pintle hook with plug on the side underneath.

Jack that is a Buyers pintle hook. I have the same one on my R model/ It is actually a 45 ton.

Rob

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Yeah, that was me...GVWR of the trailer I am going to pull is 4800#!!! I cant imagine even lifting and moving a 33 X 24 peice of 1 1/2 in thick piece of plate steel! Much less the size of welder and number of passes to weld the 1 1/2 plate! I am not going to pull a dozer! My stuff will be 3/8ths inch plate...braced (welded) behind with 1" square tubing (triangulated) for an effective thickness of 1" plus! (for all you engineering types)!...AND bolt on, tying in the strength of the rear crossmember!

PS...come see how good a job I did at Macungie, or you have my permission to talk shit 'cause I was not able to bring the camper!

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