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My father and I coated the inside of the tank on my AC. It had been coated in the early 70's when the truck was done, but it was coming apart. We wire-wheeled the inside of the tank then used two kits from Eastwood. Eastwood is right around the corner from my house so that made it easy. My other tanks I had done because I couldn't get inside of them. The company I use is Marco Radiator in Shenadoah PA. They did a great job. They pick up and deliver, but I do not know if they go that far. We did the AC tank ourselves, because they steam clean the inside and we not going to guarantee the paint and I did not want to have to repair and gold leaf the outside. Mike

I've been studying this idea also. I called last week a company in Texas, Don Hart Radiator Service. He told me that they clean them with hot steam and use POR 15 for any rust. The cost to do this to each tank was what stunned me. He said they coat them with a chemical and weld any busted through rust holes or pin holes. The cost to freight those and his cost was out the roof.

If you can weld and use POR 15 to eat the rust and your tanks are not damaged badly, then I believe it want cost you too much.

mike

The kit from Eastwood has three things in it. First you pour in something to eat away the rust, slosh it around for so long then rinse with water. Next you pour in an etching chemical and slosh it around. I think it gets rinsed again with water and blown out with air, but maybe not. Then you pour in the coating and roll the tank until everything is coated and it starts to harden up. Then let it sit with air going through it to dry. I think we put a fan up to the open. The whole process to a good part of a day. The tank on my AC has a large opening that I could get an arm in to get the rust out. I would try it on another tank, but Marco Radiator is affordable. I had them do a couple tanks for me and they are maybe $300-$450 depending on the tank. They did the saddle tank on my LFT, but I don't remember what it cost. They also have re-cored a couple radiators for me and for about $900 each. I was very happy with them.

I have done some antique tractor gas tanks that were all rusted out. When you filled them up with water it looked like a sprinkler can. We needed some acid to rise the crud, junk and rust out the best we could. All we used was toilet bowl cleaner as it had enough acid content to do the job. We threw in some gravel and shook it the best we could. Thoroughly rinse with water and then dry. Try to get the gravel back out, but if it all doesn't come out that is ok because the tank sealer will harden the gravel too. We just duct taped every hole we could find from the outside and then added the tank sealer. I don't remember what brand we used, but I am sure it is fairly common to come by. If you have an extra gas tank lid that would be helpful because all of the sealer gets all over the inside. Rotate as much as you can and make sure you get the sealer on all parts of the inside. Worked for us like a champ!

i have done many B model square tanks. I usualy take a grinder and grind down the welds around the ends til they are flat then take a sawsall and cut the end caps off. I then take the and have the inside and outside sandblasted. I have used the tank coating from eastwood and the red stuff from Napa. both work well, stay away from the white coating they sell for motorcycle tanks.its garbage and flakes off. I usually brush it on the inside of the tank and end caps and stay about an inch away from the edge. weld the caps back on, air test it, then pour more sealer inside the tank from the fill and roll it around so it treats the area you welded.

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i have done many B model square tanks. I usualy take a grinder and grind down the welds around the ends til they are flat then take a sawsall and cut the end caps off. I then take the and have the inside and outside sandblasted. I have used the tank coating from eastwood and the red stuff from Napa. both work well, stay away from the white coating they sell for motorcycle tanks.its garbage and flakes off. I usually brush it on the inside of the tank and end caps and stay about an inch away from the edge. weld the caps back on, air test it, then pour more sealer inside the tank from the fill and roll it around so it treats the area you welded.

Maddog...i dont wanna get you mad.....but what would the results be like just cleaning the rust out,(loctite naval jelly) and rinse/neutralize the tank. If fuel kept full and treated would this work for any length of time?

thx

depends how much rust is inside it and what you use to clean it out. I have seen tanks get cleaned and the bottom look like swiss cheese afterwards. usually gas tanks are worse than diesel tanks but the diesel are usually chaffed more on the bottom and are really thin on the bottom

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