Jump to content

Recommended Posts

What is the difference between Power Divider lockout w/warning light and Buzzer (includes in cab manual valve) , and The Driver controlled inter wheel differential lock both RR axles, manual air valve w/warning light? Speccing out new truck and trying to get a better understanding on this! Also what condition or should I say jobs would the difference make! Someone please give me an example!

The (driver controlled) power divider lockout is an inter-axle lock. It locks the front and rear drive axles together.

The inter-wheel differential lock is just that, a driver-controlled means of locking the front and rear differentials (the left and right side wheel ends are locked together and both pulling).

If you spec both, you have the means of pulling at all four corners.

The inter-wheel differential lock is not that popular in the US (on vocational chassis), but it should be. Overseas, it quite common, particularly on vocational trucks with planetary hub reduction axles.

It's a matter of the wheel with the LEAST traction on each axle spinning with the power divider vs both sides of both axles turning with the power divider + inter wheel locks.

When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way!
  • 2 weeks later...

I thought the detroit lockers thing was in pickups.

They have side to side lock and will put it in just the rear rear so you can steer easier I guess. The power divider lock is most popular, then wheel lock which is side side most of the time on both front and rear, but occasionally just the rear.

I'm going to get a rear diff lock and is it ok to pick up the air line from the power divider and connect it to diff lock, so that when you engage the power divider switch on the dash they both engage at the same time.

Why not get the 4 wheel locks. I have it and used it a few times it is worth it. Only problem is steering when locked in,it tend to want to go straight. It works the same principal as Detroit Lockers. Joe D.

Every Mack "locking" system I ever saw did just that...locked.

Detroit Lockers (a.k.a.: Detroit Automotive Locking Differential) allow the "faster" wheel to overrun the slower one by virtue of their spring-centered, one-way ratchets. Only one ratchet gear can override at a given time, as the center gear will be forced completely into the other side gear at this time. This allows for cornering without binding. But, the ratchets can be heard "clicking" during the turn. They do, however, provide absolutely positive drive when going straight ahead. Incidentally, a Detroit Locker will also allow one wheel to overrun the other while going downhill or decelerating. So, they don't hold back as well as a true locker or a spool on a downhill. The primary use of the Detroit is to provide that positive drive to both wheels under acceleration. Lots of Detroit Lockers in race cars and off-road pickups. Don't use the term Detroit Locker as a generic term, as it is a very specific piece of equipment. Now, if they make one for heavy trucks, I know nothing about it, as I am not aware of it.

Again, the Mack locking systems I've personally experienced actually LOCK the unit in question, whether that is a differential or the power divider.

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

I have full locks, but only switches for inter axle and one axle....front and rear locks share a switch.

Lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part....

I have full locks, but only switches for inter axle and one axle....front and rear locks share a switch.

That's what I've seen, exactly.

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

I'm interested in getting Lockers for my RD. Can I get the parts from a driveline shop or do I have to get them thru Mack. I have 23K Mack diffs.

Does anybody know an approx. cost for parts??

Sorry, the "bold" is locked on and I don't know how to get it off.

Doubleclutchinweasel........many years ago I worked for an outfit that had Detroit Lockers in a fleet of International tandems with rock boxes.

No switch in the cab, didn't steer worth crap and clunked while turning just like you said.

On the older Mack rears.......can the interwheel power divider be added to ones that don't have them? Or do you have to change the whole rear end?

Also how did the automatic ones work? Did they work well or where they problematic?

I would assume that the center section could be changed to accommodate the new parts. But, i'm just guessing here. I mean, the housings should be the same, with different "guts" in them. Not sure how hard it is to do, though. I'll bet Superdog or some of th other more experienced types will probably know a lot more about it.

Have absolutely NO experience with the automatic ones!

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...