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After sand blasting I use a acid etch or DuPont veri prime. Follow this with Nason fill and prime do the necessary wet sanding then coat with a good primer sealer. I have ben using DuPont Centari with Nason overall gloss hardner with good results. Not the cheapest but not the most expensive. .

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just finished repainting a jeep wrangler for a buddy of mine. painted it bright orange with Magnet paints. he wanted it textured so he can take It off road. its nice stuff but you about need a fresh air system to spray it, its nasty stuff. think he paid 150 a gallon for paint, hardener and color. it doesn't go far when your sprayin it with a Shutz gun for texture but it its tough stuff when cured. id never paint anything but the inside of a dump box with Rustoleum. its straight enamel and will fade right out and get chalky within 6 months, especially red, not worth the time you spent in sanding. any red you put on now a days should b clear coated anyways if you want it to last. do yourself a favor and at least guy acrylic enamel and put a clear over it, you will be happy you did. if you wanna go a step up get some acrylic urethane.

post-6-0-64947600-1408238925_thumb.jpg

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Has anyone ever pulled the oil pan off the 4 cylinder AB engine on these trucks. I would like to take it off and clean the gunk that's probably accumulated in the past 85 years. Is this a big problem or should I not attempt this? I don't have any real breakdown of that engine. Also it has a "filtrator" as a filter on the side of the block. Is that cleanable?

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Removing the pan is no big deal. The beauty of the old time rigs is they were designed to be repaired on the side of the road, so taking one apart in a shop is relatively easy.

If you are going to all of the trouble of cleaning and re-painting the sheet metal why not remove the engine so you can properly detail it and the engine compartment? The aluminum parts should be cleaned and polished and/or painted a chore you cannot do properly with the engine installed.

My advice is to pull the engine, check the clutch, and clean and paint everything properly.

Money, sex, and fire; everybody thinks everyone else is getting more than they are!

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  • 1 month later...

Nice work on it. Did you restore the steering wheel?

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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No the steering wheel looked like that when I bought the truck. Don't know what the material is but different than anything I have ever seen before. The timing and throttle levers are being chromed along with some other parts by Shelbyville Chrome in Shelbyville, IN. I am going to change the tires from 32X6 to 7.50X20, those on their are some super old tires!

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If the steering wheel is the same as my AC its a vulcanized rubber covered canvas. I've yet to find any one to restore or duplicate it.
I found repro 38x7 tires made in the original pattern by B.F. Goodrich Tires in the Miller Tire Catalog for my AC Crane Carrier, but at $625 each I think I'll find different wheels and tires more cost effective. Paul

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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I believe 1929 is too early to use chrome. Nickel plating is what would have been used on the truck when it was new.

Nickel was used until the middle 30's. Ford went to chrome plating in 1936 and GM in 1938 or 39. MACK most likely would be about the same.

"OPERTUNITY IS MISSED BY MOST PEOPLE BECAUSE IT IS DRESSED IN OVERALLS AND LOOKS LIKE WORK"  Thomas Edison

 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’

P.T.CHESHIRE

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I started draining the oil out of the pan after I cleared the sludge blockage. Some awful nasty slimy stuff came out of it and still has some in it. Took the drain plug off the filtrator and got another huge 24 oz cup of sludge out of it! I am going to take the filtrator and pressure relief valve and tubes to clean them out also.

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Put a couple gallons of kerosene or diesel in the oil pan and let it set a few days drain and repeat, if you want you can filter it out and reuse just a little messy. Depending on how much sludge is in there may take a few flushes.

A flush was a common practice back in the day, due to the paraffin and lack of filtering, this was used also in transmissions and rear ends.

Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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i am going to pull the oil pan and completely clean it. I think it has some pockets in it as there is still some oil trapped in it. I dont have a good picture of it, just a poor copy of an AB parts book that shows a breakdown of engine.

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