doubleclutchinweasel Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 'Bout a year ago, I posted on here how the old range select valve on my 15-speed RoadRanger was leaking. A rebuild kit cost as much as the new-style knob. So, I put one of the new all-in-one knob/valve assemblies on it. It looked a little odd in that old Mack, I will admit! But, it sure felt better on the hand!Well, the %#$& thing started leaking just a touch of air in high range. It would stop if you held ever so slightly upward on it. But, if you hit a good bump, or accidentally touched it with your finger, it would sometimes start to hiss again.I tried cleaning up my old T-handle valve, and putting new O-rings in it. But, it seems to be beyond help. Can't get it to stop leaking. Pretty bad wear on the slide.So, screw it. I bought one of the Chinese copies of the original valve. Cost me a whopping $9!!! Stuck on an el-cheapo plastic knob, and, voila! We're old school again! Quote "Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines." Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/34825-blasted-range-select-valve/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
ws721 Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 I take it youre deep reduction button is dash mounted? Hard to swap old style 15 speed knobs without replumbing. Go figure on the "cheap" knob working. Hard to say what to buy these days Quote Remember if it's got a hood it's no good! Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/34825-blasted-range-select-valve/#findComment-234636 Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubleclutchinweasel Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 I take it youre deep reduction button is dash mounted? Hard to swap old style 15 speed knobs without replumbing. Go figure on the "cheap" knob working. Hard to say what to buy these daysYep. You can see the Deep Reduction switch in the first pic.Considered swapping over to the "new" 15-speed knob, but Eaton says you need to swap the cover on the cylinder to work correctly with the new valve. Maybe, maybe not. Didn't really feel like fooling with it!Since I'm now back to "original", I guess it's a good thing I didn't do it!An Eaton-Fuller valve is around $80. A Haldex-Midland is around $50. I can wear out a lot of the World American cheapies for that kind of dough! Quote "Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines." Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/34825-blasted-range-select-valve/#findComment-234637 Share on other sites More sharing options...
ws721 Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 LOL. And youre right the "old style" looks better. Less grief too Quote Remember if it's got a hood it's no good! Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/34825-blasted-range-select-valve/#findComment-234647 Share on other sites More sharing options...
doubleclutchinweasel Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 Ya know...I've always seen the range selector on the right side of the stick. But, I've never seen a "virgin" RoadRanger setup!I wonder if there were variations in the placement of the valve. Left, right, front???Anybody have one set up differently? Quote "Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines." Link to comment https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/34825-blasted-range-select-valve/#findComment-234649 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.