Water in rearend? HELP!

[Tailpipe]

I thought that I posted this the other day, but can't seem to locate it so I'll try again. I was preforming a first time service on this 2000 Mack CH613 tractor since it was transferred to My location 2 weeks prior to this scenario. Everything was as usual then I pulled the plug on the front drive axle to check the gear lube when a grey like substance came rushing out, I assume it was water that was mixed in with the gear lube, but it doesn't really feel like water contamination it was extremely overfilled. The day before this complete service LOF etc. I installed a new torque arm on that axle, towards the end of the day thought I heard some "Howling" from the rear end. Sorry to jump around here I drained the rear end over Sunday and on Monday decided to pull the axles and remove the top loader from axle that's when I noticed 2 of the top loader bolts were loose and that the silicone gasket was damaged. Could this be where the "water" came from? While we were removing this top loader the aluminum side cover (the one that has to be removed) to get the other top loader bolts was corroded and bulging out ward, could this contributed to this "water" contamination ? We disassembled everything and inspected & cleaned it noticed a couple of small bits of metal chips approximately the size of watermelon seeds but couldn't see any damage internally to any gears or bearings. Cleaned the magnets and reassembled the axle filled all oil valleys and cavities with gear oil, phoned the local Mack dealer or the recently De-Macked dealer ( They sold Mack trucks since they opened 40+ years ago) Maybe Volvo thought they weren't selling enough trucks? Maybe the Mack trucks were tougher and lasted longer? I don't know, anyway back to My story asked service manager about My "water" problem He didn't have a clue, then I asked about gear lube and was told that 80/90 regular would be fine or synthetic would do just DON'T mix them together. I had read some post on here where an axle oil additive was recommended from Mack, asked Him about it He said that " He's never heard of it" before? I would like a part number if someone has it available? We took the truck for a test drive (30 miles) everything seems okay no "howling" or was it a long day at work I heard? I didn't get an oil sample sent out to analyze the content of it. The cover on the second drive axle was also bulging out removed it cleaned it reinstalled it rear axle fluid was fine no "water" Has this ever happened to anyone? or am I driving a submarine?

[farmer52]

Can't answer your questions but if you had water contamination....I would run the fluid until warm and drain it. Then refill and sample after 10K miles and again at 50K.

[1958 F.W.D.]

Pay attention to it and run it for 1000 miles, then send a sample out to be analyzed.

[smorse54]

Have seen water enter from loose carrier to housing bolts. Another place to check is under axle seats.I've seen housings crack there and allow water to enter.This is usually from loose u-.Might want to check that , have seen this on AL 40 and Reyco suspensions. Steve

[mrsmackpaul]

well Im no expert but this is quite common in farm tractors older ones before they all had cabs water always goes in through the gear sticks most farmers would cut a tennis ball in half and put half over each gear stick to keep the water out not that this is going to help you but if you do long runs and the breathers blocked it will suck water in any spots it can when the oil cools down at least thats what happens on tractors

Paul

[6368]

Does the vent on the carrier look new. the caps seem to come off of them and turn them into little funnels. People don't always notice right away and some people may not drain the rear after discovery.

[Tailpipe]

No the vent caps are there and I did remove and inspect for any obstructions (none) and reinstalled them. I really do appreciate the advice and opinions of the members. Thank You. I will check the spring seats on Monday. I did change a headlight lens that was cloudy/yellow, after that I noticed that there were 3 small drill holes on bottom edge of the old lens, I assume someone was draining "WATER"? I was told that this truck came from our facility in Alabama. The truck is a 2000 model and hurricane Katrina was in 2005? I think I'm driving a submarine. I would think that the axle would have failed in that time period? How do I identify the axles on this truck? I did post about longer wheel studs and was given a Euclid part number E-10221. I haven't got to that project yet, I just assumed that the axles are the lighter duty Mack axles. The truck was pulling a frameless dump trailer with a 80,000 lb max GVWR in Alabama. I would feel better "IF" there was a Mack recommended axle gear lube additive that I could add to this axle? Any Ideas on a part number? Thank You again for all of the advice.

[j hancock]

Was their parking lot in the bayou?

Not sure of any additive. Best thing is to use quality gear lube and have it tested. Use GO-H or GO-H/S grade.

Axle housing is stamped with info on the backside offset to the right side. A little wire brushing should reveal it.

[1958 F.W.D.]

. I would feel better "IF" there was a Mack recommended axle gear lube additive that I could add to this axle? Any Ideas on a part number? Thank You again for all of the advice.

If the damage is done, the damage is done- all the "Mack-recommended additives" in the world aren't going to help you. Drive it around for an hour and get it heated up. Drain it thoroughly (overnight!!) and refill with fresh 80W/90 gear oil. Then run it for 1000 miles, monitor it carefully for water in the course of the 1000 miles. Then take a sample and send off to a lab. See what they say.

[yarnall]

I have a 1985 MH with 2 million miles on it. When went to pick it up the guy I got it from (39babymack's brother) was draining the transmission because it had water in it. It sat out at home for a couple months and when we checked it again it had water in it. It was drained and refilled. It was kept inside since and not out of the building in 2 years. but was rained on at several shows. When we checked it over to take to macungie this year it had water in it again. The breather seemed ok. My father looked for cracks in the housing before but this time he found a bolt was missing on the top cap/plate. It was under a cable so it could not be seen. I am hoping that was the cause. I have not checked it since it got rained on at Macungie this year but I'll have to do that now. Sorry for the long message. Hopefully you have already solved your problem. Mike.

[Dirtymilkman]

My 96 cl rear was all milky white, changed grease and three months later it was full of water again. I ended finding the housing was cracked between the bolt holes on the banjo. Ended up replacing the housing.

[Lmackattack]

condensation. If your vent is plugged the water will stay. Even if the vent is working if you live in a place with big temp swings it will happen.

[MackTech]

The side cover if damaged will let water in, if you want to check spray water on it, but if the o-ring isn't seating properly, that may be the point of entry. Also the seals on the yoke(s) may be damaged (not sure how much, if any water would get in there). if the rear was under water past the breather that would cause it to. Depending on of you still have water, replaced the side covering and breathers, before doing anything else. Just thought about if the yoke seal was damaged, water could have gotten into the bearing, damaging it and possibly that's what the metal was from. Start simple, then dive into the harder parts. You may have to separate the carrier to check the RTV gasket. Was there a gasket or RTV on the axles when you pulled them? A damaged gasket would allow water into the carrier at that point too.

Just a couple of ideas. Hope some of these may help.

Here at the plant we don't use additives, but like with any other mechanical components, depending on how may hours, you may need some. You need to find one for whatever type of fluid and use a high temp one. You may want a temp sensor to make sure it's not getting to hot too, if it takes on water and you don't want to go through the hassle of draining it all the time. You can get a Mack sensor if you want one. May need to program the instrument cluster and add a gauges too. Well that's enough of my two cents, LOL.

[farmer52]

If you use a good quality name brand lubricant, no need to top treat with additives.