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There are a few different valves.

If you look at the valve, there usually is a tag on it with a number. That number is a big help!

My parking brake valve incorporated an anti-compounding valve. Very handy.

You can download the Bendix handbook, which has lots of good stuff in it.

I redid virtually my whole system. So, let me know if I can help.

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"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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I've had a LOT of offers on it,somehow resisted each time...I deff. wouldn't be able to replace easily.Plans are to patch up the roof skin for now(only real bad part of the cab)and clean the truck up a bit.Paint is not in the picture right now,so i'll be giving it a CLR bath and a coating of Linseed oil :twothumbsup:.Just want to get everything working/serviced and preserve it where it is right now.Just tried the lights and to my surprise they all work,needs 2 or bulbs.

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Here is a picture of my parking brake valve, taken as I was changing it out. If you look closely, you can see part of the ID number stamped into the side.

The most common "yellow button" valves were the PP1 and PP2.

The PP2 has the anti-compounding feature, which keeps you from adding brake force to the parking brake if you press the pedal when the spring brakes are applied. It does this simply by porting some air to the "release" side of the parking brake at the same time the service brake is applied. Pretty simple, and pretty clever.

I am also attaching a couple of .pdf files for these 2 common valves. Maybe you can find your number listed!

post-11199-0-58966100-1408217718_thumb.j

PP-1.pdf

PP-2.pdf

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Thanks dcw!

Sure thing, 'Dog.

That valve was the first piece I changed on mine when I got it home. It was leaking. Could turn it and make it better or worse. I got quite an education in Mack air brakes. Almost every piece of mine has been changed. Even upgraded from DD3 parking brakes to spring brakes.

Look up my content. There are a couple of posts about the brake upgrade. And, there's one entitled "sometimes I wonder" that shows everything I had done up to that time.

Let me know if I can help with the air brake circuitry.

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Oh. A 700! And with big 8. Awesome.

Drove one years ago (only once or twice). It had the 2-stick 6-speed. Stout truck.

Always thought a 700 cockpit looked kinda cool with the shifters going out the front of the floorboards!

That air leak wouldn't be coming out of the tractor protection valve at the rear of the cab, would it?

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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I thought you would only get air out of the blue (service) line if you applied service brakes (foot or trolley). When you push the parking brake release (yellow) down, and the trailer supply (red) down, you should get air to the red (emergency) line.

May have to disconnect the lines to see if there is a problem with the tractor plumbing, or if there is air returning from the trailer somehow.

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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The plumbing on those old trucks was fairly simple.

Jut map out a circuit, and you should be able to trace it out.

I have diagrams, but they are all '72 & earlier.

"Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines."

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bdt is that a 3 valve system red yellow blue knob? or valve Yellow /red? if its a three valve you will have air in the trailer lines any time the red and yellow knobs are charged.( and more than sixty psi in the system)

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Two ways that can work.

1. When you pull the yellow, the air is dumped off both circuits, & the red stays up. When you push the yellow down, both circuits are charged, releasing the brakes.

2. When you pull the yellow, air is dumped off the tractor side, & the red pops out automatically, dumping the air off the trailer circuit. To release, you have to push the yellow in and then the red.

But, with the red out, there should be no air going to the trailer "emergency" or "pilot" line. However, regardless of pilot pressure, applying the treadle or trolley valves will apply pressue to the trailer "service" or "signal" line.

The air from the red goes to one side of the tractor protection valve. Air from the trolley or treadle valve goes to the other side (the one with the quick-release diaphragm).

Without a trailer, the red should be out, cutting off the air to the t-p valve.

Since I don't pull a trailer with mine, I removed the trailer connection hoses, & plugged the connections with pipe plugs.

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That is probably your tractor protection valve. It is supposed to close if you lose a hose on the trailer and prevent all the air in the tractor system from escaping. When you pull the red knob, this should close the valve. However, when you apply treadle or trolley valve, air will still be supplied TO the service side of that valve. But, if I remember correctly, it should not pass through (or I could be wrong about that...been a while).

If plugging it does the trick, excellent. If not, you could always plug the outlet at the treadle valve which goes to that vavle...or simply cap the line. This would prevent any air from the service brakes from going to the T-P valve.

Sounds like you have it in hand,

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