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Hello All,

I have found much helpful information on this site--thank you all, but I haven't found exactly what I am looking for concerning brakes.

I have a 1978 RD600 that does about 400 miles a week delivering products (usually loaded at GVW 50000 lbs) to farms. It has what I consider "regular" brakes, that is they look and adjust like any other brakes we use. I think they have Bendix 20/24 canister or similar.

The brake are barely adequate. We have put on new liners, the drums are not wore out. I keep them adjusted as tight at I dare.

Does anyone have any ideas to make them better? Like I said, they are adequate but if you have to stop in a hurry is where there effectiveness runs short.

Are there upgrades? Its like I wish they had a power assist--is there such a thing? Can I add it?

We love the truck (almost no maintenance cost compared to our newer trucks) but I wish it had better brakes.

Any insight is appreciated. Thanks

Ross

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first welcome aboard

I would have thought the brakes should pull it fine I suppose first things first

how do you adjust the brake ?

how about oil leaks around the axle ?

is the shoes the right radius for the drum some times shoes have to ground to suit the drum if it is worn ?

is there air leaking out when you apply the brakes ?

do you have enough air pressure at the maxi chambers on the axle ?

Paul

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how do you adjust the brake ? I tighten the (don't know what they are called) nut with the lock collar until the shoes are barely touching the drums and even all the way around



how about oil leaks around the axle ? Good point, I will look. We had a wheel seal out and changed. I wonder if some oil has that drum and shoes slicked up. Can oil ruin the shoes?



is the shoes the right radius for the drum some times shoes have to ground to suit the drum if it is worn ? I don't know, but it seems the shoes fit the drum well.



is there air leaking out when you apply the brakes ? No.



do you have enough air pressure at the maxi chambers on the axle ? I don't know, how would I check? Tee-in a guage at the chamber? What is the Maxi chamber? Is that the canisters? I will have to look. How much should I have?



As for 30x30 chambers, will that make the brakes more powerful if I switch to them?



As for the service relay valve, I don't think that is the problem. The red and yellow buttons are inoperable and permanently pressed "in" on this truck. We only use the blue valve. We don't pull a trailer with air brakes. Could there still be a problem with the red or yellow buttons?




Thank you all!

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As for the service relay valve, I don't think that is the problem. The red and yellow buttons are inoperable and permanently pressed "in" on this truck. We only use the blue valve. We don't pull a trailer with air brakes. Could there still be a problem with the red or yellow buttons?

Thank you all!

I can't say for sure, but this sounds fishy. Not sure how the three button control valve works, but something might be amiss with this set up and causing problems.

Typically the "Slack adjuster" needs to be within a specific angle to the brake chamber rod for proper leverage.

Brake-on.jpg

I'm sure someone more in the know, but I would assume that 30/30 chambers would apply more brakes then 20/20's?

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IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Take some pictures of the brake set up so we can see what type of slack adjusters you have and find out if they are all the same. If they are manual adjusters there is way to adjust them that is different then automatic/self adjusters. When you adjusted them was the brakes released or set? What position on the truck? Does the axels have the dust cover backing plate protecting the shoes? can you see the shoes or wetness in the drum? When you replaced the brake shoes how did you determine the drums were still good? Was the drum cleaned of the old oil from the leaking seal? The cost of brakes and drums is not much more than it would cost for your car, typically if you replace the shoes most replace the drums too because of heat checking and possible out of round and grooves and such and they are cheap. Was the hardware kit replaced with the shoes? Is the S-cam free and turn easily when you had the drums off? Are they greased?

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Robert

"I reject your reality and substitute my own."

 

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thought this might help

http://flxibleowners.org/article-the-brake-system-adding-spring-brakes/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QVJSFlp8Pws

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rqvO_IwHbM

I didnt watch it all but they explain how the brakes are meant to work as they a picture is worth a thousand words I hope this helps

Paul

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All,

Thank you all for the input. There is much here at which I need to look closer. At first glance I think I need to look closer at the locking collars on the manual adjusters. I think they may be sticking in the depressed position meaning the breaks could back off. I will check this while I look at the shoes and drums again. If we still can't find anything we will look into putting a pressure gauge at the brake can.

Thank you all!

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This might sound funny but on a truck that old check the floor boards for rust and weakness make sure the brake pedal mount and floor boards don't move when brake is applied, you would be surprised what a difference it will make..good luck

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All,

Thank you all for the input. There is much here at which I need to look closer. At first glance I think I need to look closer at the locking collars on the manual adjusters. I think they may be sticking in the depressed position meaning the breaks could back off. I will check this while I look at the shoes and drums again. If we still can't find anything we will look into putting a pressure gauge at the brake can.

Thank you all!

if the collars are sticking don't hit the adj nut with a hammer like a lot of guys instead grab the collar with a pair of vice grips and twist side to side while puilling up also clean it up good with a wire brush and air pressure..

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Put some grease into the slack. There should be a fitting on the one side. Then carefully pry the lock collar up. Use a screwdriver? maybe pliers? You may need to turn the adjuster to get it to line up enough to pop up.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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how do you adjust the brake ? I tighten the (don't know what they are called) nut with the lock collar until the shoes are barely touching the drums and even all the way around

1) Chock the wheels so the truck won't roll.

2) Make sure the truck is aired up.

3) Release the brakes.

4) Tighten the adjuster good & snug.

5) Back it off 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I usually go 1/4 turn and tap the drum. If it rings like a bell, I know the shoes aren't dragging on the drums. If it sounds muted, I'll try backing it off another 1/8 and try again. Don't go past 1/2 turn, though, or you risk getting into the "out of adjustment" territory. If the shoes are dragging on the drums, it is going to hurt fuel economy, make a lot of heat, and wear the shoes and drum out prematurely...so it's best NOT to leave them dragging if you can avoid it.

One of the possible causes of the problem you are having might be caused by the way you are adjusting the brakes. The constant light pressure between the shoes and drums will polish them both up real good, decreasing the friction they are capable of making when you apply the brakes, causing your brakes to suck. To solve that, you'll want to scuff up the shoes and inside of the drums with a piece of sand paper to get rid of the polished surface....and then properly adjust the brakes so that they aren't constantly dragging.

When approaching a 4-way stop, the vehicle with the biggest tires has the right of way!
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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm thinking Trent had the same issues years back with his R700?

Does it have the proper slack adjusters on it? The installed angle proper?

Larry i Have the same issues still. I replaced the foot valve,slacks,cans,s cams,shoes, all hard ware. Removed the anti lock air valve.

Truck will still not stop like it should. I checked air pressed at the chambers and it's correct. I gave up as its jist a parade truck now.

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